Things I remember from Elise Øverland’s recent presentation: Julia Roitfeld looking perfect. Sally Singer breezing past. Clumps of models in hunks of fur and leather sheaths, catching slivers of sunlight in their hair and on their shiny patent bodices. Me feeling totally uncool.

Things I remember from Elise Øverland’s studio, which I visited last week: Slabs of yellow light in the windows. A crumpling pile of classic records. Illustrations of Mongolian Warriors on the walls. An incredible jacket made of horsehair. Elise sitting calm on a wrecked sofa, talking about her hometown in Norway. Me feeling totally uncool.

But hopeful, thanks to the clothes.

Elise used to make rock star costumes, but her new collection is more exciting than stage wear because it’s real: slide into the leather mini dress, slouch into the horsehair jacket, add the rough hewn boots, and you’re somewhere between a warrior princess and a party queen.

“You won’t want to stay home in the clothes,” explained Elise, “but… I like the idea of a girl being alone, needing to be alone sometimes. These clothes are good for a girl who can be alone, and not really be lonely.”

And suddenly, we felt a little cooler…

Name: Elise Øverland
Age: 32
Clothing Designer Since: “I can’t remember when I didn’t sew my own clothes.”
First Fashion Job: Sewing for her family; later her friends; later touring rock musicians.

Tell us about your first client. “Steven Tyler, he was the first. I wasn’t scared about working with him, but I freaked out when his pants ripped onstage. The whole backside! I’m sure he loved it, but I was scared. At least the front held, and anyone who saw the back thought they had a great view.”

What’s the difference between having your own label and working one-on-one with a musician?: When I decided to start my own line, I said, no rock ‘n roll. I wanted to make what comes out of my soul – this collection, it’s not like I chose to make it that way. I didn’t want to limit myself in the box of rock ‘n roll, but ultimately I can’t control what comes out. I do think this line has more of a couture feeling, though.

What’s your design process? Where do you begin? “I start by traveling and being by myself, being inward. But I do everything, I make the patters, I do everything. Production for me is a nightmare, because there’s so much trust involved. And the people I work the best with are really artists themselves, and what I make, it’s a 3 dimensional object, it doesn’t exist on paper. There’s a lot of trust involved.”

Where did you find the horsehair that you use in your Fall ‘07 collection? It’s everywhere; you’ve even got it on your cocktail dresses… “I like the texture, and I found the horsehair on the Internet! Seriously! And then the hardware is made in LA. But the place where I travel and get the most inspiration is India, it’s like the time zone transfers and makes me in a whole other world. ”

You have DJ booth and a record pile set up in your studio - do you spin while you design? “I’ve always been surrounded by music, my brother and I were so into it growing up. But when he comes to visit me, he raids my whole collection. It’s like we’re back in high school, I become like I’m in high school again – fighting over a stupid record! I played piano since I was little but I can’t fit one in my studio, so I have an acoustic guitar.”

Artist/ Vogue obsession Hope Atherton hosted your Fashion Week gathering - do you work together? “We bounce off each other. We met at the Frick Museum! I remember thinking, this girl is SO preppy; we are so different. But I kept seeing her around and eventually we realized we have so much in common. Our brains are really in sync. We have joint closets – we borrow everything and we buy clothes for two – it’s teamwork. She’s also an artist so we have the same language. We actually have a really nerdy friendship. It’s colors, shapes, structure, paintings, we don’t do normal girl gossip.”

And now, the Proust Questionaire…

If God exists, what should he tell you when you get to heaven?
You’re coming back on the planet again!