Designer Studio

Inside the Designer’s Studio: Laura Poretzky for Abaete

laura.jpgThings Laura Poretzky has that we want:

1. A dress form named “Gemma� in her studio.

2. Ancient photographs of Hollywood movie stars.

3. Fluency in Portuguese.

4. A song written for her by a major rock band (but that’s all we’ll tell…)

5. Every dress and swimsuit that Abaete has ever made. Of course, that’s only right considering she’s the owner.

We won’t lie: there’s lots of little dress labels crafted by pretty party girls who scatter about the city like jelly beans dropped on the floor.

But Laura actually makes all her own patterns and samples, she usually boycotts the scene-y parties, and her dresses end up in W for a reason. They’re cool; they’re cute, and exceptionally well made.

Laura’s clothes are also a little more gussied than some of her competing labels – her dresses don’t come with built-in cigarette ash –

But this means her favorite swear word is even dirtier than most…

laura.jpg

So, in the beginning, Laura wanted to be a photographer. True! I went to RISD but I realized right away that I wanted to be a designer. From then on, it was all about clothes. And after school, I went to Ralph Lauren.

How was that? It was fascinating. I learned so much about the business side of designing, because Ralph was such a franchise, and it was also interesting because it’s when Michael Kors was getting really big… we would compare our things to theirs… but I always knew I wanted my own line.

lauras studio.jpg

Did you always know it would be called Abaete? Sort of. Abaete doesn’t mean anything; it was the title bestowed on my great grandfather by a Portuguese king after he abolished slavery in Brazil…

Is there a lot of Brazilian culture in your designs? Definitely…. Brazilian girls aren’t afraid of looking sexy and cool, too. They know that you can be sexy without being cheesy or over the top. I wanted my girls to have that in my clothes.

You had a whole collection inspired by Black Orpheus: Yes, and next season, the whole thing is about my grandmother, who was this gorgeous Brazilian actress and dancer… the whole collection is about 1940’s Rio and we’re being sponsored by a tile company. We’re building our whole runway out of tiles; it’s going to be a mosaic.

lauras grandma.jpg


Whoa. So, you’re part of this fashion clique… I am?

Oh yeah, because you grew up with Charlotte Ronson and Dani Stahl and Eleanor Ylvisaker… it’s like you’re this little knot of fashion girls. Do you feel yourself designing for them? Maybe in a lifestyle way. I think, hm, where would these girls go on vacation; what would they need to bring with them; what would they wear there?

lauras wall.jpg

And that’s how you start a collection? No, the first thing I need is a concept. And then I get tons and tons of books – history books, art books, magazines… I want to see necklines and sleeves and how things in a certain time period were made, and then I can start designing. You know those designers who hold up, like, a piece of fabric or trim and they go “this is how I got my ideas!� I can’t do that. That’s crazy to me.

lauras sketches.jpg

Pairing with Payless was sort of huge, especially since Abaete is such a young brand. What’s next? Retail! Imagine an Abaete store…

And now it’s time for the Proust Questionnaire…

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE WORD?
Tomorrow. I could never spell it until someone explained to me that it means “to the morrow,� and I just thought that was the coolest thing ever.

WHAT’S YOUR LEAST FAVORITE WORD?
Like, but I say it all the time.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE NOISE?
I like the sound of people crunching candy. I know I’m crazy. Don’t ask. It just makes me want to eat and I love it.

WHAT IS YOUR LEAST FAVORITE NOISE?
Babies crying. Babies on planes. Babies anywhere near me.

WHAT JOB WOULD YOU LIKE TO HAVE?
I would be a great doctor. I would be a pediatrician.

BUT BABIES CRY AT PEDIATRICIANS
No, not with me!

WHAT JOB WOULD YOU NEVER WANT?
I could never be a lawyer. I’m not a big reader. I have no attention span at all.

WHAT MAKES YOU WANT TO DESIGN?
When I see something beautiful! I race home in the middle of the night sometimes just to make patterns. I really love making patterns.

WHAT MAKES YOU WANT TO QUIT?
Dealing with department stores. It’s so hard. It gives me a stomachache.

EVERY DESIGNER WE’VE ASKED SAYS THAT
It’s very difficult. The worst is when you get a box of clothing back and it’s sold out at all of your other stores, but for whatever reason, at this one place, they don’t want to buy it… it hurts your feelings. It’s frustrating.

WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE SWEAR WORD?
Motherfucker. It feels so good to say it.

IF HEAVEN EXISTS, WHAT WILL GOD SAY TO YOU WHEN YOU DIE?
What?! That’s not a real question.

I SWEAR.
Okay. He would probably say, “Hey, Laura, nice dress.�

Comments

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1

posted by vicki

Jun 26, 2007 5:19PM

i bought a pair of her pumps from payless. i had no idea who she was but the shoes were hitting! she's such a cute girl and now i will look for more of her designs. is there a place where i will be able to find some of clothes? oh and what song was made about her! thats so cool!

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posted by guest

Jun 26, 2007 5:21PM

aw i love abaete...she seems really cool!

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posted by miss

Jun 26, 2007 6:03PM

cute interview!

unfortunately (or maybe not) but i had never heard of Abaete until..bluefly?

http://www.bluefly.com/pages/browse/list.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2039547241

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4

posted by i dont just like you. i like you, like you.

Jun 27, 2007 12:19AM

cute!
and props for the Orfeu Negro reference Marpessa Dawn was the ish!

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posted by diana

Jun 27, 2007 3:46AM

Thanks for the interview! Love her designs!

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posted by The Fashion Informer

Jun 27, 2007 7:11AM

Wait. "What made you want to design?" was part of the Proust Questionnaire? I didn't realize Marcel was so into fashion.

Her least favorite noise answer was very funny.

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posted by KiKi

Jun 27, 2007 8:03AM

Aw.. she's adorable... so down to earth!

It is so nice to see a designer who actually have the technical skills - sewing & pattern making. Bravos!

:))

One complete thou... my friend & I both bough a pair of Abaete flats... they are so narrow that we won't able to feel our toes at end of day! I have narrow feet!!!!! Cute shoes but painfull :P

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posted by fashion girl

Jun 27, 2007 11:27AM

hey! i just bought one of her dresses at bergdorf!

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posted by Fauchon Junkie

Jun 28, 2007 10:44AM

I love this line. It is quite possibly perfect. The dresses are smart and sexy at once.

Laura ran a killer sample sale this year. I went in for one dress and I walked out with SEVEN. They were just all that good (not to mention affordable).

I can count on one hand the number of times I buy pieces in multiple colors, and this was one of them.

The quality of the materials and finishing is beautiful. The patterns are just marvelous. Everything sits just so and STAYS even though the materials are light.

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posted by fashion finder

Jun 28, 2007 6:37PM

i spoke to laura at the coterie show in february and she said that her fall collection will have tougher details like exposed zippers and metal. excited to see it! she's super sweet, too.

oh, and revolveclothing.com has some cute abaete dresses on sale too. http://www.revolveclothing.com/brandpages/Abaete.jsp

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