I’ve never dry-cleaned anything (except for stuff like gowns and stuff like that) unless its obvious that the fabric is too delicate. I feel like generally its the dryer that can do more damage so i wash in cold water and lay flat to dry.

I’ve washed “dry-clean only” items plenty of times before. The rule I’ve always heard is that as long as it’s 100% a natural fiber–like cotton, linen, or yes, even silk–you’re fine. I always wash it on the coldest, slowest, most delicate setting, and I always air-dry. And I never use fabric softener.
I’ve never had a problem washing my silk items, although they are never as silky as they once were. However, I also don’t spend a whole lot of money on my clothes either, so crunch those numbers.

I’ve washed “dry-clean only” items plenty of times before. The rule I’ve always heard is that as long as it’s 100% a natural fiber–like cotton, linen, or yes, even silk–you’re fine. I always wash it on the coldest, slowest, most delicate setting, and I always air-dry. And I never use fabric softener.
I’ve never had a problem washing my silk items, although they are never as silky as they once were. However, I also don’t spend a whole lot of money on my clothes either, so crunch those numbers.

Absolutely true. Woolite was created so that people could hand-wash their woolens. I’d be careful with anything containing rayon, since it can get very stiff.

Absolutely true. Woolite was created so that people could hand-wash their woolens. I’d be careful with anything containing rayon, since it can get very stiff.

Absolutely true. Woolite was created so that people could hand-wash their woolens. I’d be careful with anything containing rayon, since it can get very stiff.

Absolutely true. Woolite was created so that people could hand-wash their woolens. I’d be careful with anything containing rayon, since it can get very stiff.

I always use shampoo for cashmere and it works ( would you wash your hair in Woolite?). Silk is tricky and can be ruined, rayon’s the same.
Sewing teaches you a lot about fabrics–you have to wash or dry clean before you sew as they change shape. A lot of stuff in the stores seems to be made with unwashed fabric so the sizing (sp.) is still in it, and that make it behave differently.

Fiber content/garment care in the garment industry is run like a science. There are services that actually scientifically test for all this stuff to determine how the label is made and what kind of care to recommend, and to test for chemicals like formaldehyde and PH levels. Some labels who make throw-away clothing don’t do any testing, because they don’t expect the garments to really last long enough to matter (boo).
Some garment companies “low label,” which mean a fabric/garment that passes for “machine wash cold” are still labelled “dry clean only.” Not a great industry practice but depending upon how much or how little testing they do, care varies vastly.
If you happen to pick up a sewing book, many discuss the properties of fabric, and if you’re brave, you don’t necessarily have to dry clean. The poster above who said most natural fibers are able to be cleaned is pretty accurate. I’ve had good results with natural fibers being washed too, silk, wool, cashmere, and rayon…. Rayon is usually “dry clean only” because it gets weaker when wet and can break, but you can actually wash it (very carefully, in cold water.) Wool will felt if washed on a hot/regular cycle, but you can wash by hand or on a delicate cycle.

Fiber content/garment care in the garment industry is run like a science. There are services that actually scientifically test for all this stuff to determine how the label is made and what kind of care to recommend, and to test for chemicals like formaldehyde and PH levels. Some labels who make throw-away clothing don’t do any testing, because they don’t expect the garments to really last long enough to matter (boo).
Some garment companies “low label,” which mean a fabric/garment that passes for “machine wash cold” are still labelled “dry clean only.” Not a great industry practice but depending upon how much or how little testing they do, care varies vastly.
If you happen to pick up a sewing book, many discuss the properties of fabric, and if you’re brave, you don’t necessarily have to dry clean. The poster above who said most natural fibers are able to be cleaned is pretty accurate. I’ve had good results with natural fibers being washed too, silk, wool, cashmere, and rayon…. Rayon is usually “dry clean only” because it gets weaker when wet and can break, but you can actually wash it (very carefully, in cold water.) Wool will felt if washed on a hot/regular cycle, but you can wash by hand or on a delicate cycle.

Yes!!!! My Woolite sits next to my bathroom sink, ready for handwashing sessions. The only items in my closet that I don’t handwash are coats. Everything else can go in–just follow the instructions (don’t let them sit forever in the sink, and rinse well, all with cold water, and air-dry) and you will be fine. Count me as another who washes silks–albeit very carefully…
Also, the anonymous post above hits the nail on the head–I have a Vogue Sewing book from 1970 that is worth its weight in gold, just from the stain removal section alone–an excellent kind of book to have in the library for any fashion fanatic.

Yes!!!! My Woolite sits next to my bathroom sink, ready for handwashing sessions. The only items in my closet that I don’t handwash are coats. Everything else can go in–just follow the instructions (don’t let them sit forever in the sink, and rinse well, all with cold water, and air-dry) and you will be fine. Count me as another who washes silks–albeit very carefully…
Also, the anonymous post above hits the nail on the head–I have a Vogue Sewing book from 1970 that is worth its weight in gold, just from the stain removal section alone–an excellent kind of book to have in the library for any fashion fanatic.

@ brendastarlet:
Actually, the foaming agent in most shampoos are sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate, which is the active ingredient in floor detergent. So since I don’t shampoo my hair with that garbage, I certainly wouldn’t clean my clothes in it. Better to use a soap formulated for fabric.

@ brendastarlet:
Actually, the foaming agent in most shampoos are sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate, which is the active ingredient in floor detergent. So since I don’t shampoo my hair with that garbage, I certainly wouldn’t clean my clothes in it. Better to use a soap formulated for fabric.

Sorry, @ a –misread it.

Sorry, @ a –misread it.

MH–I don’t use those shampoos and I can assure you my cashmere and hair look great. Woolite includes
Sodium laureth sulfate and Sodium dodecylbenzenesulfonate, by the way.

Ecover also makes a delicate laundry liquid, which I now use for all my delicate washes or for handwashing.

Ecover also makes a delicate laundry liquid, which I now use for all my delicate washes or for handwashing.

Ecover also makes a delicate laundry liquid, which I now use for all my delicate washes or for handwashing.

Anyone else think MH was (a) remarkably rude and (b) wonder if she washes her hair at all?

Anyone else think MH was (a) remarkably rude and (b) wonder if she washes her hair at all?

I’ve long raged about unnecessary drycleaning. Manufacturers are usually to blame. They’re abdicating their responsibilities (textile testing) in product development. Just as commonly tho, responsibility lies further up the chain; the mill dictates the cleaning method. Again, the mill doesn’t want (and sometimes can’t) to endure the rigors of making a product that can be laundered and still retain the characteristics of the goods. Most commonly these days tho, it’s large manufacturing concerns who label dry clean only because they don’t want to have to recut their patterns for shrinkage per each piece goods.

I’ve long raged about unnecessary drycleaning. Manufacturers are usually to blame. They’re abdicating their responsibilities (textile testing) in product development. Just as commonly tho, responsibility lies further up the chain; the mill dictates the cleaning method. Again, the mill doesn’t want (and sometimes can’t) to endure the rigors of making a product that can be laundered and still retain the characteristics of the goods. Most commonly these days tho, it’s large manufacturing concerns who label dry clean only because they don’t want to have to recut their patterns for shrinkage per each piece goods.

I’ve long raged about unnecessary drycleaning. Manufacturers are usually to blame. They’re abdicating their responsibilities (textile testing) in product development. Just as commonly tho, responsibility lies further up the chain; the mill dictates the cleaning method. Again, the mill doesn’t want (and sometimes can’t) to endure the rigors of making a product that can be laundered and still retain the characteristics of the goods. Most commonly these days tho, it’s large manufacturing concerns who label dry clean only because they don’t want to have to recut their patterns for shrinkage per each piece goods.
Btw, I wash my coats. If they’re leather, you’re taking a risk. I make mine. I prewash the hides and if the hide doesn’t withstand the treatment, I go with something else. I realize not everyone can do that so if you’re in a situation where you must wash a leather coat, use shampoo. Don’t put it in the dryer. Stretch the garment as it dries.