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Couture That’s Not Juicy

not juicy couture.jpg This Saturday, London’s V&A museum debuts ‘The Golden Age of Couture: Paris and London 1947-1957’.

The exhibit will feature 100 outfits from houses like Dior, Balenciaga, and lesser-known English couturiers like Hardy Amies and Norman Hartnell. There will also be bills and receipts on display —one informs us that in 1950 a couture Balenciaga evening gown cost $230—.

Though today’s couture is often discussed as one of the last links to the hallowed traditions of luxury clothing, the show and accompanying article in October’s Vogue UK throw light on just how much it’s changed.

In 1950 there were over 30 couture houses in Paris. A couturier would present 150-200 looks a collection, all of which were intended for sale. Shows took place daily until interest in ordering the clothing was gone, and customers might order 30 outfits from a single house in a season.

A suit from Dior’s ‘New Look’ collection retailed for $180. For those on a tighter budget, retailers like Bergdorfs bought patterns directly from the designers to make their own, cheaper, versions of the couture looks.

Nan Kempner was a lifelong customer of couture, both in the “golden era” and in the nineties. Before she died she declared that couture is not “made for real women anymore. It’s theater now— and I’ve seen it all.”

Couture today does seem like a distant, fantastic dream. But if you’re looking for a peek at the era when couture was something you wore for a walk in the park, check out the V&A—

or if you can’t make it to London, just buy the exhibition catalog.

—ANNA FIELDING GRIGGS

Comments

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posted by ani

Sep 18, 2007 11:09PM

Umm a couture Balenciaga evening gown for $230 - Does anyone know how much 230$ in 1950's money would be today? I wish I had an inflation calculator.

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posted by rachel

Sep 19, 2007 12:57AM

i very much hate it when labels use the word "couture" in their names, yet their clothes are as ready to wear as they come.
hence, juicy couture. it is bs in the highest form......

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posted by Joede

Sep 19, 2007 8:06AM

$230 in 1950 would be $1879.78 in 2006...

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posted by Richard Petty's Tutu

Sep 19, 2007 11:41AM

Rachel, I am on your team regarding the bastardization of the word "couture." What's next, NASCAR Couture?

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posted by ani

Sep 19, 2007 8:06PM

So if $230 in $1879.78 in today's money then they got a deal. ;) Doesn't Haute Couture prices start around 15k for a suit and 70k and upwards for a gown.. With 2k one can't even buy much in current Balenciaga.

While a "demi-couture" gown can cost around 25k.

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posted by guest

Dec 12, 2007 4:17PM

How do you get the exhibition catalog?

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