With a Stiff Upper Lip, We Bid Goodbye to LFW

Eugenia M does the linebacker look.jpg The shows in London are over, and the countdown to the Prada show on Tuesday has officially begun. But before you say cheerio to British fashion, check out the clothes from these three designers you might have overlooked. Their clothes aren’t as brash and bright as House of Holland, but we think they still have lots of impact.

Roksanda Ilincic Roksanda is a Serbian by way of Yugoslavia, now living and designing in London. This fall she says she was inspired by 30’s-’70s fashion illustration, and we could definitely see Greta Garbo lounging in one of her flowing charmeuse gowns. They’ve got an understated glamor and elegance that speaks volumes, softly.

Richard Nicoll

Like Roksanda Ilincic, Richard Nicoll played with pumped-up shoulders this season. But in his muted color palette the clothes definitely felt more sculptural than sporty. The next Central St. Martins grad to make a big splash? Maybe…

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders has a masters in printed textiles, but his clothes don’t look the way you might expect them to. Instead of running riot with plaids, paisleys, and stripes, Jonathan does simple color blocking. If you like what you see as much as we do, take heart; he’ll be showing in New York next season.

—ANNA FIELDING GRIGGS

Eugenia M does the linebacker look.jpg
Eugenia M in Roksanda Ilincic
richard nicoll.jpg
Richard Nicoll
more redheaded models, please.jpg
Olga Sherer in Jonathan Saunders

posted by guest

Sep 22, 2007 5:22AM

Richard Nicoll is a hot piece of sausage too!

posted by Ani

Sep 22, 2007 4:28PM

Hi
Speaking of the London Fashion Week - it is sad to see the Biba label receive little press this time around, sadder to see Bella Frued leave the brand.

Quote:
"The Company
The label was re-launched in 2005, thirty years after the iconic Biba store closed it doors on Kensington High Street. The rights to Biba International were acquired by Michael Pearce, its current creative director. The contract with Bella Freud who designed the first two ready-to-wear collections has now come to an end. From S/S 2008 the collection will be designed by a team of five, overseen by Artistic Director Hector Castro.

The Collections
They aim to re-capture the very pretty, super-feminine Biba aesthetic – knitwear designer Louise Goldin is also helping out.

News
Retail plans for 2008 include a first London flagship store for the re-vamped brand plus stores in LA and Las Vegas.

Instant View
Browns, Matches and Harrods in London; L’Eclaireur in Paris; Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus in the USA; Corso Como and Biffi in Milan; Podium and Mercury in Moscow; Gonzalo Comella in Spain; Beyman in Turkey."
Source: londonfashionweek.co.uk
End quote

http://www.londonfashionweek.co.uk/designers_details.asp?DesignerID=52

posted by Faran

Sep 22, 2007 6:57PM

I think Biba isn't getting so much press because the relaunch was big news, but the collection isn't very good. In fact, some of Bella's pieces were downright hideous, and the new team made a nice - but not exciting - stab at the line.

Also, Biba is overpriced - imagine TopShop relaunching in 20 years, and charging $600 for a sweater, even if it's the same basic quality and style as the original stuff. It's too bad, because it has a lot of potential.