What Does Organic Look Like?

stam in stella.jpg
WWD reports on Barneys continued eco-obsession, and their new exclusive collection by Stella McCartney.

But maybe more interesting than the story’s newsy bits - Phillip Lim will also make organic dresses, Barneys will soon stock bamboo skateboards - is the assessment about Stella’s line, from fashion director Julie Gilhart:

“It does not read organic in any way, shape or form.”

We love that Julie said that, because it brings up an issue we’ve had for some time:

That most eco-friendly clothes look like costumes from Jurassic Park. There’s lots of khaki. There’s rumpled texture. And there’s a color palette that screams Laura-Dern-Playing-a-Plant-Doctor.

If Stella’s new line looks like her normal clothing, that’s good news for shoppers, but some new issues do arise:

Are organic garments as durable as synthetically made ones, or will they self destruct - much like some of Stella’s very expensive handbags?

And is eco-fashion really going to fix anything? Or is it too late (and too naive) to think that saving the world can happen with some earnestly sewn jeans?

posted by designer

Oct 19, 2007 3:14PM

I wonder if all the "organic" clothing lines are being made in sweatshops...

posted by Allison

Oct 19, 2007 3:45PM

If we all went around thinking that eco-everything wasn't going to fix anything, then there would be no hope for any of us. The fact that people are taking the initiative to make a difference, no matter who that person is, and no matter what the size of the impact will be, is what is important. We've all heard that every little bit helps, and I wholeheartedly agree. While eco-fashion itself may not be responsible for saving the planet, it's a step in the right direction. These designers are raising awareness, which could help launch a larger movement, or even just encourage people to be more involved in leading earth-friendly lives.

posted by MH

I don't think the quality argument really applies either--plenty of non-organic denim is so blasted with sand and acid and washed so thin that it wears out insanely quickly anyway.

And, while eco fashion definitely isn't going to undo the environmental damage caused by, say, every senior level fashion editor in the world flying from New York to London to Paris to Milan every year to see what is essentially the same presentations over and over again, many of these companies really do contribute by providing jobs and giving back a portion of their proceeds. So if you must buy that umpteenth pair of jeans, you might as well buy a pair that you know was made in a low-impact way.

posted by mkm

Oct 19, 2007 3:49PM

it's too late, but that doesn't mean we should stop trying.

posted by Helen

Oct 19, 2007 9:19PM

It's too late to save the world completely.. but would you rather the next few generations suffer more or less? Every little thing counts. Giving up is stupidly irresponsible, don't dump the shit on the next generations. It just so happens that in history, we are the ones that need to pick up the slack.

But less talk, more walk please!

posted by Pink Tartan

Oct 19, 2007 9:38PM

Green and eco-everything including fashion is the current trend. As with any trend, it comes and goes (although, I hope that designers are trying to find eco friendly textiles, for real).
Several years ago, Naomi and Kate et al would 'rather go naked than wear fur', then the next season, the girls were wearing fur again.
I think that Stella McCartney's commitment to eco fashion is genuine, given that she was raised in a vegetarian, eco aware environment.
And if, for arguments sake, the clothes are only durable for, say, two seasons and then disintegrate, isn't that kind of eco friendly in it's own way?
It beats outdated clothes ending up in a landfill.

posted by Lydia

Oct 21, 2007 2:49PM

True, we've already done a lot of harm to our planet. It may also be too late. But instead of making it worse than it already is, let's try to make a difference for future generations.
If more and more people buy eco friendly clothing, bags, shoes, there might be more research made to find more resistant materials.

Pink Tartan : "And if, for arguments sake, the clothes are only durable for, say, two seasons and then disintegrate, isn't that kind of eco friendly in it's own way?
It beats outdated clothes ending up in a landfill." --> Completely agree

posted by Courtney

Oct 22, 2007 2:38AM

If your clothes fall apart, isn't the landfill where they're headed?

posted by Starrett

Oct 22, 2007 10:36AM

Organic is good! It is time for everyone to stop being a skeptic and to be supportive. Small changes beget big changes. Currently, it is a bit difficult to find organic fabrics and yarns as the market wasn't demanding it. However, as demand increases, so does product availability and production. This movement will grow and not be a trend if we insist that it stays.