A Retail Conundrum

Jan 22, 2008 @ 9:25am

diorcouture.pngJohn Galliano kicked off Couture week in Paris yesterday with a spectacular-as-always show for Dior, while the rest of the world mourned the crashing stock market and slowing economy.


Meanwhile, Jimmy Choo, the British luxury shoe brand, announced that while most retail outlets continue to suffer, their profits reached record highs last year. And last week, WWD reported that 2007 was Chanel's most profitable couture year ever.

We've noticed this trend over the last year, luxury sales growing, or at least not dropping, while the rest of the industry suffers. While analysts often attribute it to the rich getting richer, and being generally unaffected by minor economic trends, we wonder if it has something to do with the recent push to bring luxury to the masses.

We know, or at least hope, that the average fashion fan isn't saving for a couture gown, but we also know plenty of girls who skip meals for weeks to buy $600 Jimmy Choos, or pay rent late to afford $300 Tom Ford sunglasses, foregoing weeks of retail therapy at mid-range stores in lieu of one major luxury item.

If more people put their money toward a piece of the luxury market, do the levels of retail directly below suffer?

Comments

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posted by guest

Jan 22, 2008 10:06AM

Umm no. Because for your set, obviously, Jimmy Choos are a "reach" purchase. For the set that makes slightly less, maybe a pair of Stuart Weitzmans or a dress from BCBGMax Azria is the reach, not the midrange. And so on and so on. Most of the time, most people purchase at the top end of what they can actually afford. And growth in couture requires women who can afford it, not women who save up for it. Besides, the few girls in NYC who save up for Jimmy Choos are nothing in terms of the market. Most people who wear expensive shoes are wealthy suburban women (seriously, check the red soles on the women in my mom's hair salon in Florida), or women with the kind of jobs in finance that allows you to purchase a bunch.

posted by piccolina42

Jan 22, 2008 10:10AM

No, because they can just push upmarket or downmarket as they see fit. The problem in the US, at least, was that the middle class was willing to take on huge amounts of debt to be able to live like they were in the upper class... and now they are starting to default on payments and the whole thing is crashing down. Rich people will always buy luxury goods, but when credit is easy as pie to obtain no matter how poor you might be, poor people will too.

Oversimplification, I know.

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posted by guest

Jan 22, 2008 10:11AM

Those who buy couture fall into an income bracket not easily affected by the current economic climate. It's not like one forgoes a Derek Lam ready-to-wear dress because they've been "saving up" for some Valentino couture. However, if you're referring to the luxury market in general, you'll find it is beginning to feel the pain of recession. Check out Lauren Crowe's post on The Business of Fashion: http://www.portfolio.com/views/blogs/fashion-inc/2008/01/21/lehman-brothers-downgrades-luxury-sectory-to-negative

laurenintheafternoon.blogspot.com

posted by lentil

Jan 22, 2008 10:19AM

Growing income gap, much?

posted by BonnieJean

Jan 22, 2008 10:37AM

I'm certainly no economics expert, but how much of the U.S. luxury market is being supported by overseas buyers? With the dollar so week, I'm sure wealthy Europeans and Asians are doing their share of shopping over here.

posted by BonnieJean

Jan 22, 2008 11:10AM

Whoops! I meant weak. Must be the day after a holiday...

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posted by guest

Jan 22, 2008 11:43AM

There is an economic theory to this called American Plutonomy. Economic growth is powered by and largely consumed by the wealthy few, and from whom investors and businesses learn to depend on.

http://www.brianhayes.com/2005/10/american-plutonomy.html
-Thessaly

posted by urple

Jan 22, 2008 1:44PM

even though there are some neg comments thank you for also bringing attention to the economic side of the industry! don't do away with your other subjects and style ever! :)

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