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News Jun 26, 2008 @ 9:30am

Changes on the Runway

by Natalie Hormilla

d squared spring 2009.jpg We know more than a few of you have already noticed the models at the Dsquared² show this week.

In reverse of how shows usually go, the majority of the models were black, with just a couple majorities.

Now, there’s a delightful rumor on COACD, that next week’s Lanvin show will have an “all ethnic” line up.

We’re just going to skip over the part where we debate the definition of “ethnic” and admit we know exactly what he’s talking about, so here’s the better question -

Is this in response to the upcoming Vogue Italia? Or would designers have made an effort to cast entirely non-white model line ups in their shows without it?

(And better yet, will this trend carry over into the women’s shows?…)

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posted by ModestoT

Jun 26, 2008 9:40AM

i really hope this dosn't catch on. i think its sort of stupid to pick models JUST BECASUE their black... i would much rather see models on the runway because they have talent, not becasue their race is the new trend.

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 10:07AM

I think this is just a flavor of the season..something new. It's works very well for the Dsquared line. All of the men are gorge.

I would like to see it carried over to the womens shows but I doubt it. Not to be trite but designers prefer non-ethnic girls...i.e. white girls.

posted by andremichael

Jun 26, 2008 10:16AM

uhm.
it just has 2 be done in good taste.

i hope this s/s 09 season won't just fulfill the "we book black models so shut up" quota and then we never see them again. it's about consistency; i think this issue is about the consistent image of diversity in model selection. and so far, i highly doubt that designers are picking other ethnicities SOLELY on the basis of race (because lest we forget, the designers STILL want to make $ and they have 2 believe in the selling potential of the model - it REALLY is about the clothes), yet they are paying CLOSER attention 2 the men & women of other races.

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 10:25AM

I also think it's a positive by product to Obama being our next president. I'm noticing a brown-out in a lot of editorials, including this blog. Glad you guys are posting more brown faces.

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 10:43AM

I was excited to see ethnic models on the Dsquared² fashion show, especially Anthony Gallo. However, I felt as though it was forced. I'm not sure if anyone'll know what I mean, but whatever.

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 10:51AM

Isnt this the definition of reverse racism? This is still s decision based on race, regardless of the intentions.

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 10:59AM

designers have ALWAYS picked models based on race. the recent trend? Eastern European. why is it suddenly reverse racism if black is the new Eastern European? or any other race?

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 11:01AM

Heatherette opened their SS08 show (almost a year ago) with all black models - long before the Vogue piece came out, or Barack Obama was campaigning. FYI.

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 11:08AM

I agree with

Jun 26, 2008 9:40AM and
Jun 26, 2008 10:51AM

posted by shinyredthermos

Jun 26, 2008 11:09AM

Please go to style.com Look of the Day please....

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 11:12AM

I can't help but think, and worry, that this is some move to make non-white (can we stop with the "ethnic"?) models some sort of novelty. Instead of making all black shows, all white shows, all asian shows, and whatnot, designers should work harder to make their shows more diverse.

The same goes for fashion shoots. The all black issue of Vogue Italia is great, but is it going to create change in the industry or just make being black a novelty in fashion that will go "out" like other trends?

posted by shinyredthermos

Jun 26, 2008 11:15AM

Agreed guest 11:12

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 11:20AM

second that agree, guest 11:12. this just seems gimmicky, like they're going to go back to doing whatever they were doing the past seasons. how about actually integrating minorities into the fashion world instead of putting them on display for a while to "shut everyone up." it's kind of like the whole, "i'm not racist, i have black friends! look! over here!"

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 12:08PM

I agree with the last three commenters.
I thought that fashion was (in part) about celebrating the beauty of diversity and uniqueness.
Are the powers that be not evolved enough to understand that beauty is evident in all ethnicities and as long as someone fits the clothes well, they should be wearing them on the runway?

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 12:29PM

12:08, no they are not. That's why for the most part..id guess 99.5% of the time you see prebubecent, emaciated white girls on the runway.
In the 90's this was ok b/c there were supermodels, the girls had personalities and as a minority i don't look at them as white girls, i see glamazons. Nowadays it's blantantly obvious that models are cast on the basis of race, white being what's right, and theyre not even attractive girls. Thats the greatest disillusionment. I mean c'mon. Hell the girl in the banner to the right of this comment page modelling for Nordstrom..sub par, average, blah! Nordstrom would be better off to use mannequins.

posted by arcane

Jun 26, 2008 1:09PM

The intentions of the designers is obvious to me. I doubt that they are trying to make black models a novelty of sorts(although, I could see the happening), rather than really just trying to take steps toward diversity. And we all know diversity certainly doesn't mean just black models BUT, a grander statement is made if you use mostly black models since they've been shut out so often... and that seems to be the point.

ModestoT, if you think choosing models because of race and not talent is stupid, then you surely will be glad to changes on runways? Certainly, not all of the 'non-ethnic' girls stomping the runways are are full of talent. And who is to say the 'ethnic' model won't be the most talented? How will we know if we always go with the same thing without considering something else?

As for reverse racism... well, there is no such thing. Racism is racism, no matter what the package looks like. But if you didn't care about the racist tendencies in the fashion industry before, why cry about it now? Racism is supposed to be unacceptable, no matter who the recipient of it may be, right?

I think we're always looking for who is new and fresh. I don't think it would be so hard to consider that maybe that face won't always be the same hue with the same feautures. It's okay to look for beauty in other places. Whats so wrong witht that?

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 1:38PM

Thanks 1:09, well said.

posted by Model Liberation

Jun 26, 2008 1:40PM

I agree that this is just a gimmick, and it's making black models a novelty. It's sad when you realize on a campaign or fashion that you're the only black model. So imagine being one in a sea of black models, and you wonder if you're a unique individual or if it's attack of the clones. Trust me, I've been there and you really start to question yourself. Think about how these models must feel.

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 1:43PM

race aside, i liked that the dsquared^2 guys looked like men. i know buff guys can get a little hunk-of-the-month-ish but i'm tired of seeing skinny 17-year-old boys on the runway.

posted by ModestoT

Jun 26, 2008 2:03PM

arcane, i never said black models wern't talented. i stated that picking black models for runway shows as a trend is stupid. i know "ethnic" models can be talented, don't put words in my mouth.

posted by disneyrollergirl

Jun 26, 2008 2:31PM

It does seem a bit gimicky...Black is the new green anyone? It's so lame and insulting to black people using them for these trite publicity stunts. But that's fashion for you I suppose...

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 2:32PM

modestoT, i couldn't have said it better myself. hope this doesn't turn into "trend" thats going to get "old"

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 2:36PM

Modesto regardless of what and or how you meant to say what you did, your words come off as naive and pointless.

It's not the first time and if they don’t start ignoring your comments it won't be the last.

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 3:37PM

So seeing another commenter mention Anthony Gallo, I wisked off to view the Dsquared collection... he is so yummy and so is Tyson Beckford.

But I digress, I find the men's collections always have more variety as far as ethnic make up of the models goes.
With that in mind, designers should take a page from the male runways and spice things up a bit. I also appreciated that they used models with extensive tattoos, atleast in the Dsquared show.
Tascha Tilberg was in an editorial with a decent amount of her arm tattooed, and I'd love to see her on the runway again, but I guess she's passed her heyday.. she could've added some color to the runway in a whole other sense

posted by guest

Jun 26, 2008 8:13PM

gasp! now peple are going to the other extreme of these matter and it's not good neither. ¿can't all the models be mixed up?

posted by vicki

Jun 27, 2008 12:20AM

I am happy to see real men on the runway. hey can the trend of real men come back in style, and not these emo skinny dudes? God these men look yummy!

posted by guest

Jun 27, 2008 9:09AM

Did anyone notice the pops of ethnicity at the Giorgio Armani S/S 2009 show?

posted by guest

Jun 27, 2008 9:42AM

to tell u the truth im black and i dont just want to see black models on the runway. as i had posted on another article on this topic, EVERYONE BUYS CLOTHES!! so why cant the runways just be diverse. im sure its possible to find beautiful girls of different races- that way everyone can relate but also APPRECIATE OTHER CULTURES AND STYLES (i think thats the problem) it can just be blatant racism and egocentrism; its very sad...

posted by guest

Jun 28, 2008 7:14PM

why the heck are some of you so racist! white people these days swear they are better than everyone else in the whole world! PLEASE STOP IT!!!!!!!!! because white peolpe are not the best, every race is equal! if dan and dean want to add some much needed flavor to the runway, then so be it.

posted by guest

Jul 02, 2008 12:27AM

We are all racists in some way. You can deny it but we are. It's the human way.
I APPLAUD Italian Vogue for taking this step; albeit maybe in the face of raising profit margins for the month.. or whatever the intention. I dont see other Vogue regions like US or UK or Australia, which are more ethnically diverse than Italy making any such express effort. I also thank Arcane for your post at 1:09. Change is natural.. it's the human way. Here's hoping this is not just a passing phase! peace to you.

posted by guest

Oct 02, 2008 12:59PM

Does anyone know where I can download the full show?