Sweatshops in New York?

Jul 24, 2008 @ 9:00am

victorias secret outfit.jpg Today's WWD may be a little funky so far, but there's at least one story they made sure to get up there, and it's pretty dire.

They've broken that there's been a sweatshop operating out of Long Island City (which we've always heard was a nice, cute place with great views of the city) that's been employing "over 100 mostly immigrant workers" with illegally low wages and overtime hours since 2005.

The workers have been manufacturing garments for a company that supplies clothes for Macy's, Gap, Banana Republic, Express, Victoria's Secret, Limited and Coldwater Creek.

Workers were being paid on a per-garment basis, completing each one in under a minute. They had even been coached on how to respond to suspicious investigations, in case that ever happened.

We're not surprised that there are sweatshops, but more so that this was happening so close to home. But what's the response from each of these companies going to be?

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 9:12AM

The New York Times actually broke the story. Here, http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/07/23/a-queens-sweatshop-found-to-owe-workers-53-million/

posted by Bee

Jul 24, 2008 9:14AM

deny deny deny.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 9:19AM

i gotta say, sweat shops is one of the main ways i rationalize buying more expensive clothing.. still a chance, but way less likely than when you buy from the gap family of goods.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 10:26AM

My father once asked me why I was spending several hundred dollars on a dress made of cotton. I told him it was because that's how much a dress costs when its not covered in the sweat and blood of exploited children.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 10:57AM

you are kidding yourself if you think just because you are paying more for a piece of clothing the garment workers are reaping the benefits. maybe in the case of haute couture, but otherwise, not so much...

remember: there's still a difference between minimum wage and "livable wage"

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 11:40AM

GAP?!? Macy's? Banana Republic?!
The shock! The horror! I simply can't believe it!

NOT.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 12:11PM

@10:57 - don't be an uppity brat.

are you seriously contending that buying clothing from stores that participate in sweat shop labor, thereby paying their employees probably $3 an hour and making them work 120 hours a week, is no different than buying clothing from somewhere that follows labor laws, pays its employees at least minimum wage, and has them working 40 hours a week?

ridiculous.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 12:37PM

guest # 7: "uppity brat"?? get a grip...

that's clearly not what I was suggesting. i was merely pointing out what i hope would be obvious.

i'm afraid it's a bit too simplistic to assume just because something *costs a lot* that the producer must observe fair labor standards...

or that those extra dollars are paying for a *livable* wage...

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 12:57PM

The Jeans Pictured Are Cute

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 1:30PM

I have a question--so I avoid buying from brands that are known to or reportedly use sweatshop labor, like the brands mentioned, whether they do it here or in 3rd world countries.

My question is--do lines like 3.1 Philip Lim and Vince, which produce in CHINA use sweatshops? For the price point you would hope not. But I can't help but wonder what the conditions are in the 3.1 factories...eluxury got the new stuff in and it's gorgeous, but I won't buy any if he uses sweatshops.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 1:32PM

i would like to know where those pants are from please.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 1:45PM

@12:37 - i said "uppity brat" because of the extreme level of condescension in your remark, and the fact that you compared the "unlivable" nature of minimum wage to the truly unlivable nature of sweatshop labor.

and yes, it is indeed condescending to say people are "kidding themselves" if their efforts to avoid contributing to a social problem such as sweatshops fall short of actually solving all wage related problems in america.

while cost does not necessarily correlate to good working conditions (and no one suggested that - banana republic is certainly overly priced enough to dispel that idea), i would wager there is a notably higher probability of avoiding sweatshop made clothes when you buy high end clothing versus from old navy/gap/wal-mart.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 2:15PM

Yes, if anyone knows what the story is with Vince clothes all being made in China now I would love to know. I have older clothes from them made in the US (clearly that doesn't guarentee anything) but I am curious if anyone knows about their factory conditions in China. Their clothes still seem reasonably well made.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 3:39PM

Given the nature of the fast-paced global garment industry, it is pretty safe to assume that most clothes we buy in the US are made under sub-standard conditions. Whether the clothes are made by children or adults, workers in poorly ventilated factories using unregulated machinery, for few rights such a as living wage, the right to take bathroom breaks, eat during their work hours, etc.

This is a huge human rights issue that is largely ignored or denied by the fashion industry, even those who deem themselves "conscious". Take the Gap RED Campaign. The sales of the RED apparel go to benefit the global AIDS crisis - yet the garments themselves are made by workers in South East Asia who are denied basic healthcare. It is entirely hypocritical.

Over the past decade and a half (which also coincides with the rapid development of the global industry) small pockets of consumers have organized and voiced their dissent against this type of action. Take Nike for example. these sneakers were once made in egregious conditions. They are not perfect, but the Nike factories are much more regulated by third party organizations to insure that worker's rights are respected. Consumers have power over this.

I am not trying to be a naysayer or a hater about this. I shop at Forever 21 and H&M too. I just think it is important that ppl be aware of what is going on.

There are some good resources on the internet about this:
www.sweatshopwatch.org
http://www.globalexchange.org/campaigns/sweatshops/
www.studentsagainstsweatshops.org/

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 3:58PM

I agree, guest 14, that a lot of the clothes we buy--whether from J.Crew, H&M, or Theory--come from sweatshops. However, American Apparel, while expensive, is a great alternative to the sweatshop t-shirts and tanks from the Gap. Believe it or not, there are brands that produce in the U.S.

Also, I try to buy from labels producing in France or Italy over China...while production in Europe may not be as transparent as I would like it, I feel more confident that the workers are paid at least minimum and are allowed breaks, etc. The difference is that in the US and China, making clothing is not seen as a respectable career...in Europe people sewing for Chanel or making Hermes bags can actually make careers out of it and are well-respected as craftsmen, not cheap labor.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 4:10PM

i just got home from banana republic b/c they got the fall line in and i remember seeing some beautiful pieces in their lookbook. but the clothers were SOOOO over priced! i'm come on- banana republic, gap and oldnavy are all owned by the same company and so i can't imagine the clothes from BR being much more expensive to make than those pieces from old navy. and although it wasn't mentioned in the article, if BR is being implicate, than old navy and gap probably aren't far behind.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 4:45PM

After scouring the internet on all the sites listed in the tags, I finaly found the jeans on the internet. I am buying!

http://www2.victoriassecret.com/commerce/application/prodDisplay/?namespace=productDisplay&origin=onlineProductDisplay.jsp&event=display&prnbr=9B-226581&page=1&cgname=OSCLOJEAZZZ&rfnbr=2245

posted by fashionfix

Jul 24, 2008 5:01PM

i worked at the gap/banana republic distribution centre one summer during university...all BR clothes came straight from italy.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 5:05PM

For those who think American Apparel is "better", just a heads up-The CEO of AA is a notorious union buster, and has used many horrible and devious techniques to run unions out of his factories. He has also been implicated in the sexual harrasment of many of his workers. Wage is not the only issue when we are talking about workers rights.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 5:06PM

Be careful, fashionistas, about getting too self righteous. I like to think I care a lot about living wages but love to shop at Topshop. And I must recognize that I am being hypocritical when I do this. Many of their clothes are produced in countries without adequate protection for labor, under sweatshop conditions (there was a scandal about the Kate Moss line). There are countries with good laws in place that are cheaper than producing goods in Europe/US (Cambodia for example), but you have to be very careful and do a lot of research. And no, you can't be sure, even if the garment is expensive.

You may want to believe that by avoiding a few well-publicized cases, you are avoiding sweatshops. Even brands like Prada and Gucci have had sweatshop scandals. http://articles.latimes.com/2008/feb/20/world/fg-madeinitaly20

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 5:21PM

Response: "We didn't know! We're going to investigate! We're sorry! We can change!"

Like an abusive relationship.

I try to be very careful about what I buy, but it's very difficult to figure out the labour practices of the manufacturers. Just because a garment is being produced off-shore doesn't mean that they're being made in sweatshop conditions (New Balance, for example, requires their factories to maintain a strict code of conduct, which is made available online).

I hope we one day move to a system similar to the one they have with diamonds. When you buy a diamond, you can get a certificate confirming that they are not blood diamonds.

Likewise, there should be a system where an independent body certifies clothing lines, so that you know that your clothing isn't being made in abusive conditions.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 7:53PM

#19--Sweetie he went to my high school (although obviously he graduated waaaay before me) and while I agree that sexual harassment is by no means acceptable, what he has done with AA is AMAZING and groundbreaking for the industry--can you name any other clothing companies with vertically integrated production in the USA with healthcare benefits, etc??

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 8:31PM

Has no one here read How Luxury Lost Its Luster? Those on their moral high horse about buying designer-only need to realize that even luxury houses are cutting corners when it comes to finding cheap labour.
That being said, I'm not sure what the solution is to this tragic and complicated issue.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 8:35PM

Honestly, I could care less if the clothes I wear were made in sweatshops.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 9:59PM

This is why I handcraft all of my own clothes from the fibers I grow and spin into thread on my organic farm as well as the hides of wild deer.

posted by guest

Jul 24, 2008 10:21PM

the fact that there is a sweatshop operating IN america indicates how serious this problem is...and suggests that there are probably more sweatshops in america unknown to us. i honestly don't know how this problem will ever be solved--clothing companies are perpetually looking for cheap labor. and buying designer clothes isn't a direct guarantee that the clothes were made in acceptable conditions. to the guest at 8:35, i suggest that you look more into this dire problem, and i bet you won't be feeling so indifferent afterwards.

posted by guest

Jul 25, 2008 12:50AM

lol@ guest #25

posted by guest

Jul 25, 2008 3:12AM

does anyone here know where to buy affordable clothes that aren't made in sweatshops? i usually save up to buy from places like american apparel (which isnt exactly cheap), i only buy clothes twice a year, and i have a very small wardrobe. but im a college student with a small budget and when my clothes either fall apart or get outgrown its very hard to find decent and affordable places to replace them in. do any of you know of any lower priced stores with decent regulations on how their workers are treated? any advice would be appreciated.

posted by guest

Jul 25, 2008 9:03AM

#24--then I guess your wardrobe is filled with.....GAP, Macys, and VS?? You must be the most fashionable girl in school. I'll be sure to save you some PINK rhinestone sweats for back to school. xoxo

posted by guest

Jul 25, 2008 9:25AM

if looking for clothes made in a country where the conditions are not deplorable, try looking for made in cambodia. cambodia provides livable wage and benefits to their workers.

i don't think it's possible to buy stuff without someone being exploited unless you wanted to wear patagonia all day.

posted by guest

Jul 25, 2008 10:36AM

Patagonia produces in China and a lot of other countries with questionable labor practices...ironic considering its "green" bend.

posted by guest

Jul 25, 2008 12:00PM

Not for nothing but I imagine the illegally low wages match the illegal immigration status of the workers themselves. I am not saying they therefore deserve to be treated like slaves,but rather it is our own fault for allowing this subculture to exist of people who are unable to be hired under legal circumstances and therefore fall prey to conditions such as these.

posted by guest

Jul 25, 2008 12:13PM

American Apparel is full of s***. The company doesn't respect workers rights.

I don't care whether Dov went to your high school or not, either...

posted by guest

Jul 25, 2008 1:01PM

Because he has EXPOSED himself to a few people which btw has happened to me like 5 times on the subway, and i didnt sue--you would rather send workers to China where they are basically worked to death??? Both sexual harassment and sweatshop labor are serious issues, but I'd rather pick the lesser of two very big evils...oh and just fyi my high school also graduated a president and Ivanka Trump, Amanda Hearst, etc.

posted by guest

Jul 25, 2008 5:08PM

you just don't want to wear clothes that were made by Asians, Latins because... how could you?? you might get some weird rash.

You just want clothes made by french, italian or american caucassian hands!!

lol

posted by dumbbrunette5

Jul 26, 2008 4:26AM

omg, to #35 im pretty sure no one was talking about that. im sure there are sweatshops in europe that people here would definately be opposed to and as long as the asians, latin americans, etc. are paid well and work in good conditions its fine. plus, theres a good chance that some of the people here are from countries that have large numbers of sweatshops (ex. china) and i doubt they support sweatshop made clothes either.

posted by guest

Jul 27, 2008 8:50PM

My favorite part of this post is how you describe Long Island City as some mysterious far-off place that you're heard of, but have never actually set foot in

posted by guest

Jul 28, 2008 12:26PM

price and location of fabrication does not equal better working conditions or fair wages.

prada and gucci and many other labels were caught using cheap chinese immigrant workers in their italian factories (so for all those who think they are getting italian made products by people who grew up trained in classic italian techniques or whatever, well they are made by the chinese). i suggest you google this, it was pretty recent. Also, I don't think work conditions everywhere in eastern europe is all that acceptable.

also, I doubt GAP or VS even knew about the factory. Usually, large companies like these contract out the production of certain lines or specific pieces to large scale manufacturers. For example, if Gap and VS both make yoga pants and each need 1 million pairs. Well a manufacturer can make 2 million pairs at lower cost than Gap or VS (due to greater bulk). They then sell it to Gap and VS for less than it would cost for them to produce it themselves. And corporations such as Gap or VS tour factories but if the manufacturer tells you they use factories A, B and C but forget to tell you about the illegal factory D, I dunno how they would find out.