News

Gap Falls Into A Gap

zara spring summer 08.jpgEveryone’s talking about Zara - Hayley got a new dress, I got a winter coat and now they’ve overtaken Gap as the largest fashion retailer in the world.

The Spanish chain’s profits increased by 9% while Gap’s fell 10% in the first quarter according to the Guardian. Blame’s fallen on the American consumer for cutting back on spending - but shouldn’t some of it be placed on the Gap, too?

While Zara’s devoted itself to absorbing high fashion runway designs and interpreting them for the masses with an incredibly fast turnover rate, Gap’s flailed its image all over the place - Euro designers, capsule collections, the all-American Patrick Robinson - to no avail. Their profits might increase the week their new white shirts hit the racks, but that customer won’t return until the next special collection - they’ll probably be at Zara instead.

Why did I buy my winter coat full price from Zara two weeks ago? Because I know it’ll be gone by the end of the month, replaced with some other diluted Rick Owens interpretation. Meanwhile, Gap’s overproduction means that if I like something, I can wait months with the guarantee that it will go on sale for a fraction of the price (good for me, bad for Gap) - but the bigger problem might be that I don’t like anything.

If Gap wants to cater to a jeans and t-shirt customer, then do that, without mixing in Pierre Hardy shoes and ThreeAsFour dresses, but if they want to cater to a customer who cares about Philip Crangi and Rodarte, do that. They’ve overreached, leaving their customers, and apparently their own brand strategists, quite confused.

Zara picked a customer early on and continues to target her while opening almost 4,000 stores internationally. If Gap wants their crown back, they better start paying attention.

Comments

1

posted by misscynthiabell

Aug 12, 2008 1:03PM

Britt,

I must commend you for this piece. It was informative, interesting AND truthful. A trifecta not often found in the journaling world.
You voiced the opinions many of us have towards Gap, and I certainly hope that Patrick Robinson can turn the company around.

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2

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 1:15PM

I've been turned of by GAP for a few years now. My last purchase was the white RED tank I think. Zara has always been a great fall back for when the trend I want is not as affordable. That being said - I don't shop at Zara as often as before - Y? because fashionista is always spilling on those wonderful sales.

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posted by hayley

Aug 12, 2008 1:35PM

I can't honestly remember the last time I bought anything in Gap - I see things in magazines that I try to find but theres never anything in there!
I love Zara, I love the TMF collection and the prices aren't too high for the basic stuff (£9 for a jumper, and nicer than anything from Primark) I'm really missing being near a Zara since I moved but thankfully one is opening up next month!

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4

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 1:54PM

best post on this site in months. bravo britt.

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5

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 2:10PM

It's crazy because I JUST had this conversation with a friend over lunch.

There is NEVER any reason to buy anything full price at the Gap because you know it'll be on sale for $12 in no time.

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6

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 2:13PM

I like Zara as well, but the quality for what your spending is not the best deal. Gap has become the one stop shop for me when it comes to underwear. I do have to say even their underwear sizing is starting to be off. I am a size 6 and their low rise (who needs low rise panties btw) bikini brief is the tightest smallest thing imaginable and not that comfy.

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7

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 2:25PM

I have to agree with #6. Zara has some great stuff and I stop by frequently (sometimes I wonder if they ever have size smalls- they run out so fast)- but the quality is not always the greatest. I've tried on three pairs of pants in the same size and they were three entirely different fits. It's hit or miss, but still better than the GAP for style.

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8

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 2:45PM

I think you hit the nail on the head with this one, but I think Patrick Robinson is going to save the Gap this fall & holiday season.

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9

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 2:53PM

Gap -- my how they've fallen since their heyday. Sad. The clothes are horribly constructed/cheap, styles not so stylish, prices sure to drop, etc, etc, etc.

They're almost the opposite of J.Crew, now that I think about it. J.Crew has well-designed clothing that's well-made, and not produced in huge numbers. Gap is practically like Old Navy now -- just higher priced. Banana Republic hasn't been so hot lately, either. Generic "style" that isn't particularly stylish, nor well-made. We'll see if it turns around, I guess.

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posted by missryanm

Aug 12, 2008 3:24PM

Gap product has actually been looking really excellent these days. I found myself picking up several outfits at full price(!) over the summer. Like many people who work in the industry, I almost never pay retail, but it was just that good.

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11

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 3:32PM

this article is really, really good. you guys should do more like this. great job!

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12

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 3:35PM

guest #6...i thought that was just me...the low rise briefs run crazy small!! weird b/c most of their other merchandise swings larger

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13

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 3:43PM

I have been shopping at Zara much longer than they have existed in the US and I live in a country with no GAP, Banana Repulic or J Crew ut filled with Zaras, MNG, Bershka and Pull and Bear(lower lines of Zara) basically all of the Inditex lines. But I have found that while styling is very nice the quality is really poor and keeps getting worse each season, I haven;t had a single item last more than a year even a winter coat I bought i had to reline because the lining went to shreds. That being said, the qualuty of gap basics is much higher than those you find in Zara and I have to struggle where if I wear Zara I look like a clone of everyone else here as if I buy something from Banana Republic I am a bit more original.

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posted by stylecrusader

Aug 12, 2008 3:46PM

I feel like people have been saying forever now that Patrick is going to turn things around, but hasn't he been at Gap for a while now? And not much has seemed to change.

I agree on the full priced Gap stuff, never worth it.

15

posted by evita

Aug 12, 2008 3:47PM

I'm a former Gap-er and Britt, (awesome blog piece), wrote about exactly what they have being doing wrong, and what they have been struggling to do right. I do know that currently they are trying to eliminate their sale customers, and having not worked there for a few years, I have noticed that there has been slightly less product in their sale areas. So perhaps, and probably very slowly, they might be on their way back up with the help of Patrick, and maybe finally being able to pin-point their customers and gain a few back. I still have a soft spot for their 'Favorite Camis'.

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16

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 4:26PM

Hey #12 - I also have to say I have a TERRIBLE time with bras as well. And the ones at Gap are cute but then after a few wearings they just dont fit right at all anymore - and its not like you can dry them either. Its sad - its card to find cute underwear that is comfy - and I am not a big girl but when the sales clerk is telling me that I have to buy a large or an xl in low ris e briefs you have got to be kidding.

17

posted by Serge

Aug 12, 2008 4:46PM

This is the first time I see you talk about Zara! Well, I love this clothes, and as I've red, women's clothes quality is not that good but Men's clothes are! I always find some nice pants and blazers in there; about GAP... I just don't like it :S

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18

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 5:16PM

While I think Gap has great pieces and gets a consistently bad rap in the fashion biz, I agree it is pointless to buy anything full price from there.

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19

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 5:47PM

I agree w/ #18. Gap fits me well, but I'm always stalking the sale sction.

But I like the deisgner collaborations! Loved the Hardy shoes and my DooRi blouse. I think they do it in a way that works for the brand.

But no more white shirts, please. Maybe the CFDA line cold tackle another "Gap Classic" next time, like the Khaki.

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20

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 7:51PM

seriously britt, this was great. what every 'fashion journalism' article should aspire to be.

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21

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 8:42PM

Zara's growth in the last 12 years has resulted in diminished fabric quality and poor construction. I also wonder about the comment that Zara is committed to "absorbing" fashion design. Sometimes it feels like they are just ripping off hi-fashion. Lately it feels like we have all become too fashion savvy and we all dress in the same, boring expected way. Maybe if the Gap and Zara both went away people could make more interesting and unique choices.

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22

posted by guest

Aug 12, 2008 10:12PM

Great article!

I agree with post #6 in that I can't ever buy anything at Zara because they never seem to have smalls or x-smalls for that matter. The Gap is just awful :( I wish there were more Sisley's around as they at least carry smaller sizes, but I bet no one on this website has anything nice to say about Sisley. My husband thinks that their clothes are very poorly constructed. It would be so nice to live in NYC or Europe where one has many more clothing options for smaller budgets. Dallas has so few options....

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23

posted by guest

Aug 13, 2008 1:06AM

WOW!!!

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24

posted by guest

Aug 13, 2008 7:44AM

The comments about Zara quality above do not quite fit my experience. I have some favorite pieces of Zara which are 10 years old and who have lasted very well, better than some pricier more respected brands. But something to keep in mind is that even if a store looks just like one store is that there are at least 3 different Zara lines (at least in Europe) with different labels ( go ahead, check what it says there)

Zara Woman - this is usually the most fashion forward line. It is usually located right by the entrance of the store). Prices are higher. This summer they had all those BV like linen dresses, the silk tops, the linen skirts, some very intricated worked shirts and smocks. Quality is usually the best of the Zara lines and I find it hard to find fault with the workmanship there unless compared to things 10 times pricier. And I do have some pieces from this line which have survived trends and have been through a lot of wear and places looking as new.

Zara Basic - more at the end of the store, cheaper, often offering a lot more "basic stuff". 20 euro simple plants, 15 euro sweaters ( I think basically everybody I know sooner or later will have one Zara Basic piece), some tanktops 4 or 5 euros, some more classic designed coats and trenchcoats. Prices are lower, sometimes the quality is worse, though sometimes their pieces can be great.

Zara Trafaluc ( or TRF) - usually at some corner, some alcove, an upper or lower floor, designed to look a bit more teen. Cheaper than Zara Woman, quality also dodgy, more teen oriented fashions. If Zara Woman is more inspired by catwalks, then TRF is more street fashion. I doubt pieces will last 10 years, but can´t imagine anybody wanting one of those pieces to last 10 years.

I don´t think Zara quality has gotten worse with time, on the contrary with the fashion for very worked pieces (smocks, lace, constructed linen pieces, cotton linings, 100%silk tops instead of nasty synthetics) I have been impressed how good some things are. What I do have a small quibble is sizing, their sizing is getting larger. Since I do have some old pieces I can compare it, and if I wore a size M, now in their new autumn collection I got to reach for a S. Thankfully they now seem to make more sizes XS than they did but still I think I detected a trend. Maybe it just has to do with the different cut of clothes fitting differently, or perhaps it is because of the anorexia debate in Spain.

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25

posted by guest

Aug 13, 2008 8:36AM

GAP has a serious fit problem. Has anyone else noticed this? I'm slim and petite but certainly not emaciated. But time and again (including recently with Patrick's stuff) I try on a bunch of items that look vaguely cute on the hanger but then awful once they're on in the fitting room. Fit is the most important thing. I think GAP is paying too much for their pretty, pretty adverts and not enough on making sure the production is actually decent. (One disclaimer: I own the Pierre Hardy gladiators and love them.)

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26

posted by guest

Aug 13, 2008 11:01AM

great article - and dear to my heart as i've thought the same things a gazillion times.

gap is mostly just very boring and the few times i've seen things that look cute, either the fit is terrible or the quality is just not great. or, and i kinda hate to admit it, it's just too recognizably gap.

i don't really share the enthusiasm for zara though. i go in b/c they SEEM to have cute things, but i leave each time wondering why i bothered - they NEVER have size small and really, the quality is just usually not that good for the price.

basically - zara is better than gap by leaps and bounds, but usually disappointing and not worth the time & effort (& cost). at least you know you're not getting what you want at gap!

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27

posted by guest

Aug 13, 2008 2:36PM

I think it's a bit pointless to compare the two shops, as they're so different as brands. I see Gap as more for basics, and with the new European collection, they're trying to reinvent themselves more as a high street APC. If I'm looking for knitwear, or t-shirts/casual tops, it's the first place I'd look. Zara on the other hand, is for of the moment, catwalk copy clothes. I would expect the pieces from there to stand out more, and look less high street than items from shops in their price range (having said that, I do mainly shop in their Zara Woman range rather than Basic or TRF)

I agree with the point made in the original post that everything is guaranteed to get reduced at the Gap, which isn't the case with a shop like Zara. It's a bit baffling why nothing seems to ever sell out there before it can get reduced, even here in the UK where they only have two sales a season.

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28

posted by guest

Aug 14, 2008 12:14AM

One plus for GAP--I recently tried on some of their "limited edition" jeans, and they fit like a dream. Albeit, the sizing was a bit weird (I could wear smaller than usual, which isn't necessarily bad), but the quality was good. Also picked up a really nice grey jacket from there that I've gotten compliments on. I feel like half of their stuff is more "designed" while the other half still appeals to their core market (I'm thinking all the flowery, flouncy stuff). When I find something really nice there, it's usually not that trendy, just appealing; Zara is usually the opposite for me.

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29

posted by guest

Aug 19, 2008 7:23PM

How do you shop at Zara? Is there an online store?

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