The name “Eliza Cummings” might not ring a bell for you just yet, but get ready.

The London-born model, who walked in Marc and Rodarte in New York (she also opened Custo Barcelona) and nearly every good show in London and Milan so far, has been shot and confirmed as the April cover for Vogue Italia.

It won’t be her first time fronting a major glossy - she’s one of the twelve girls on the current ID.

But it’ll certainly be her first time front and center and all by herself, in something everybody in fashion knows and loves.

Also, her cover was shot by - who else? - Meisel.

Dear John Galliano,

Why don’t you advertise in our magazines?

Is it because you think we can’t handle your fashion? Because we can.

We had a seven hour plane ride on which to read four different British magazines and in the midst of every single one - LOVE, Vogue, Bazaar and Elle - we paused to admire Sasha lounging in your colorful silks and powdered wig alongside the Fashionista typeface.

Anyway, you’re probably busy getting ready for Paris, but we think your people should call American people and start spicing up the ad pages on this side of the Atlantic.

See you in Paris!

Merci,
Fashionista

There’s been a buzz around Alex & Eli for the past few months and we finally caught up with the designers behind the brand at the Bryant Park Hotel this morning to sneak a peek at their Fall 09 collection.

The line’s designed by Anna Zeman and Aja (pronounced Asia) Singer, both Parsons grads and together alums of Zac Posen, Carolina Herrera and Rodarte. Alex & Eli comes from their middle names, Alexandra and Elizabeth - masculinized for their line of suiting.

But there’s nothing really masculine about their clothes. It’s more about the idea of stellar, old-school, attention-to-detail tailoring usually reserved for custom made men’s suits and not a $500 price point.

Their Fall collection’s inspired by stained glass and Mommy Dearest which means panel-cut jackets (which we’ve never seen before) and mostly dark colors with pops of fuchsia and burnt yellow. There are raw silk, high-waisted trousers and a swingy, nude tank top with a sheer white back. Technically, it’s for the customer who has to wear a suit but wants to look chic and fashionable doing so. But we would never ever wear a suit and we’d wear all of this.

The girls are busy meeting with a long list of buyers but as soon as we know where you can try on their awe-inspiring suit-jumpsuit, we’ll let you know.

One of the best things about being in London is seeing what everyone in New York will be wearing in six months.

Sure enough, peplums were already in the window of every high street store, everyone’s rocking Alice Dellal-like grungy booties, and there were an inordinate amount of super stylish fashion show-going girls with a perfectly plaited braid wrapped around their long wavy hair.

Each time we saw one of them we’d wonder, how’d she braid that so perfectly? How is it staying in place just so? Until finally, when we had thirty minutes to spend in Topshop on the very last day, we saw a wall stocked with fake braid headbands and felt like an ass for not realizing they were fake three days before.

We’ll blame it on exhaustion, being far away and blurred fashion vision at this point - but for all the railing we’d do in an argument against fake hair, we couldn’t even tell the difference.

Which makes us wonder, would you wear a fake braid on your head? Because all the cool girls are doing it.

“What’s your greatest strength? ‘My decisiveness.’ And weakness? ‘My children.’” - Anna Wintour, in the September Issue, as relayed by reader Heather.

Rachel Antonoff might have been missing from the New York Fashion Week line-up, but that doesn’t mean she hasn’t been hard at work on her Fall 09 line.

Her lookbook - which stars Julia Frakes, Sarah Sophie Flicker (trapeze artist, filmmaker and member of The Citizens Band) and Alia Shawkat (from Arrested Development) - gives you an idea of what she’s put together for later this year (yes, there are pretty dresses). Her previous lookbook star was Scarlett Johannson.

And if you’re in Paris for the Fall collections next week, you’ll be happy to know Rachel’s holding a presentation.

First, she landed herself the Spring 09 campaign with Vivienne Westwood.

Then, she made a latex-ed appearance at Richie Rich earlier this month.

Now? She’s coming back full force for Vivienne - This time, for Fall, and on her runway.

So if you have an invite to Vivienne’s show in Paris next Friday, we suggest bringing your camera.

(PS Does anyone else think all this fashion participation might mean bigger fashion plans are in the works for the former Playmate?)

Rumors over the last week have just been confirmed by the Guardian: Dasha Zhukova, the designer behind Kova & T (also well-known as the girlfriend of Roman Abramovich, the billionaire who owns the Chelsea Football Club) is the new editor-in-chief of POP.

The first issue of the new POP hits newsstands September 1st, an ambitious date considering Bauer Media’s had to hire a freelance team to replace the masthead Katie took with her to LOVE.

Bauer’s also established an editorial board to “provide guidance and inspiration”, a team that includes Daphne Guinness and Julia Restoin-Roitfield.

This job will be Dasha’s very first in magazine editorial.

Ok, not really. But Plum Sykes’ article on shoulder-length hair in the new March Vogue does explain how Gisele ended up chopping off her Gisele Hair, copied by thousands of magazine-gripping women everywhere: Apparently, she spaced, cut her super long hair to her shoulders, then freaked out and called her hairdresser at John Frieda in shock (we’re sure he helped shape it up later).

The thing I find most funny is that I’ve been cutting (ok, trimming) my own hair for years. I haven’t seen the inside of a professional salon in about a decade (I just put my hair in the most even braid possible every few weeks, then chop off about an inch), which has worked out quite nicely for my shoe budget.

I’ve always thought that unless you’re doing an all out Audrey Hepburn-inspired cut-a-thon, you can probably get away with most styles on your own - most girls I see just have long hair with a few shorter pieces in the front anyway.

Do you cut your own hair at home? Or does that just sound like a bad Full House waiting to happen?

We just came across this old Model Diaries video of Doutzen Kroes, before she became a Victoria’s Secret Angel.

In it, Doutzen smiles, Doutzen talks about her small hometown, she eats a cantaloupe slice, etc.

But the best part is with Mario Testino: “I love when you can tell a girl, ‘I want you jumping.’”

Oh, Mario.

Yesterday, somewhere in the UK, someone got the last copy of LOVE - That’s right, 67,000 copies have been distributed and sold, making the new glossy one of the fastest selling debut magazines ever.

So with all these people having a naked Beth Ditto on their coffee tables, it’s become the obvious time to launch her clothing range for Evans, that part of the Arcadia group owned by Sir Philip Green which has been described as the Topshop for the “bigger lady”.

Well today I can reveal the collection may be coming sooner than we all thought: I have word that the campaign is being shot in the next couple of weeks and the collection will be in stores late March / early April.

More details to follow from the shoot.

—BR(IT) BOY

That recession thing everyone was obsessing over during New York Fashion Week? Well, in London, they have no idea what you’re talking about.

From our first show, Ashish - which featured a raging live performance, acrobats and gift bags packed full of makeup - to the last, there wasn’t even the slightest sign of an economic downturn. Champagne and food flowed, beer, wine and liquor, too; coffee in the mornings, water, Vitamin water, and Godiva chocolates everywhere you turned.

Gift bags popped up at almost every show - two at some like Roksanda and PPQ - totes packed with cosmetics, hair products, magazines, t-shirts and Barbies. And it felt like every single designer had an after party - including magazine and store parties, there must have been at least seven events a night.

And the photo pits, which we noticed were considerably smaller in New York this season, were huge. Not just at shows like Vivienne Westwood, but at Charles Anastase and Krystof Srozyna, too.

More importantly, no one even talked about it. Except for us of course, desperately running around asking everyone both British and American why it felt different on this side of the Atlantic. No one had an answer.

So we’ll leave it up to Paris - let the French have the final say in just how much the industry’s letting its inner turmoil reflect in its public face while we recover from London’s rollicking week-long party.

Before leaving London, I went to one last presentation. Milliner Nasir Mazhar put on quite a show at the St. Barnabas house in Soho.

We were allowed to enter the chapel in groups of fifteen. There were no lights, just hundreds of candles, a singing monk, and a handful of almost naked people in really obscure hats.

The monk got to move (as you can see in my really awful sideways video, so sorry), but the models stood as still as statues. I heard mentions of “DaVinci Code,” “pagan sex ritual,” and “but I can’t see the hats!”

But really, no one was looking at the hats.

When Olivia Palermo informed Whitney Port of her status as a “social” instead of a “socialite,” it was all funny ha-ha, and then on to the next thing, except for that one bit in the Times.

But we just received a press release about the party for the Azzaro pop-up store in London in our Inbox, which included some rather curious wording: In it, Pippa Middleton, Kate Reardon, Selina Blow, Matthew Freud and Lady Cosima Somerset are all listed with the title “Social” next to their names.

Next up, Webster entry.

With the ongoing LOVE affair and a couple Fashion Weeks now behind us, we almost forgot that the magazine industry is dying.

Today’s dose of print reality comes via the Post, who are reporting that T:Style, our favorite section of the Sunday Times (when it’s there), has been scaled down from fifteen issues per year to just twelve.

Coming down to the frequency of a normal monthly magazine may not sound so awful, but consider that T:Style is practically the last part of the Times that guarantees total fashion coverage, as opposed to the Styles Section, which revolved around GOOP this past weekend.

In an incredible collision of a post-fashion photographer and a post-Fashion Week celebrity, Hedi Slimane has taken a series of shots of Lindsay Lohan for, what looks like, just the fun of putting it up on his website.

Past subjects of Hedi’s online fashion diary include Lara Stone, a dog, and too many dirty young things to count.

So why has he suddenly turned his usually model-focused lens onto one of Perez Hilton’s most frequent subjects? (We can’t even get into the question of Lindsay’s appearance.) Could this be the beginning of an opposing exhibit to his celebrated Perfect Strangers tour?

“This New York Fashion Week appeared to reflect the reality of an accountant in a box which he’s been locked inside for 100 years.” - Fake Karl, in an interview with Paper.

The next installation at the rotating concept GAP store, next to the GAP flagship on 54th Street, is all about the cardigan - next to a bright selection of the brand’s in-house-designed pieces will be a selection of more creative takes on the classic, designed by thirty RISD students.

The students did everything from just adding a bit of shine or applique, to totally deconstructing the cardigans to make dresses and skirts. Patrick Robinson says that GAP needs to think outside of the box (they’ve reported only sales declines for eleven months in a row), and get people talking about emerging designers.

So far, the names of the students involved have not been mentioned, but we do know that their cardigans will cost over 50% more than usual. Which, from GAP’s perspective, seems smart. If these students weren’t paid - a safe assumption - then that’s a whole lot of profit margin for that tiny little space.

“I would gather these scrapped photos from the garbage, put them in an envelope, and organize them later at home. I separated the blonde women, the brunettes, the black women, and the men, too, into long hair, short hair, mustaches…” - Azzedine Alaia, on his childhood job at the police station’s photo ID department (we think he must have been a muse for Amelie), in Interview.

WHICH group of fashion show go-ers rolled up to Louise Goldin an hour after the show had finished? They just couldn’t understand how she dare put her models on the runway without their particular presence.

To: Tips@Fashionista.com

From: Alpha@Boy.com

Hi!

Hope all is well and you survived Fashion Week!

Anyway, I just finished watching the premiere episode of Running in Heels on the Style Network’s website and thought I’d pass it on. I honestly think it’s worse than Stylista, the editors make it completely evident that it’s fake. And the number of Michael Kors references can only mean that he’s a sponsor. Or Nina Garcia just wants to suck up to him, still. Joanna is really funny and the interns are completely not with it.

Let me know what you think! Enjoy, haha.

xx

Best Line: “There’s so much buzz about her joining in the industry, I really want to be able to exploit it.” - Joanna Coles, Marie Claire’s EIC, on Nina Garcia.

Curiously, amid knee-high boots, neon, cut-outs, and body-con dresses, some designers were thinking of present packaging for their Fall 09 designs.

Behnaz Sarafpour, Badgley Mischka, J Mendel and even Christopher Kane worked ribbons into a few of their looks - A touch that seems rather girly for a season that also saw three pairs of actual pants from Marchesa, no?

Rosie, Henry Holland’s Casting Director

Got Her: Outside Henry’s show.

Stalked Her: Because we’ve wondered what happened to Henry’s collaboration with Levi’s - we haven’t seen them since September’s runway show.

Shot Her: Because she really made them look amazing. Plus we loved the little fur around her neck.

She Says: “Fur with Levi’s, naturally! It’s actually Burberry, though yes it does seem vintage doesn’t it?”

We Say: How long until Henry’s polka-dotting luxury furs?

WHICH editor looked so bored front row at Marios Schwab that her tongue literally rolled out of her mouth? Guess she didn’t share our opinion of the show.

Henry Holland’s show was maybe the most literal thing we’ve ever seen walk down a a runway.

It’s like he took the little paint cards from Home Depot, in the most bubble-gummy colors, blew them up and put them on super fun little dresses with major zippers, transfered them onto shaggy fur coats, men’s shirts and shorts and even bags. And to top it all off, the girls got to wear jewels by Katie Hillier (of POP, of Marc by Marc accessories, of Mulberry etc) exclusively for House of Holland.

Agyness’ and Henry’s families took up an entire row which meant lots of cheering - especially when the two danced down the runway at the end. In fact, our aisle seat lent a perfect view of Henry pulling each girl out from behind the curtain and doing a little dance before sending them out onto the runway.

Dancing, bright colors and shaggy coats might have been the perfect way to end London Fashion Week.

Until Paris, mes amours!

I’ve been salivating over shoes this week.

At yesterday’s Josh Goot show, I literally had to hold myself to the chair so as not to grab the two-toned platform wedges off the models’ feet. I’m not even sure if they were suede or slightly furry leather, but I want them alongside my imaginary collection of Charles Anastase stompers, Charlotte Olympia for Krystof platforms, Basso & Brooke elf shoes, Vivienne Westwood bondage sandals and everything else that I dream about.

The dresses and suits that went along with the shoes were pretty, too. There were two parts to the large collection: The first was a grouping of clingy, pinkish-beige and black, two-toned dresses, and the second made up of ruched pieces in what looked like a paint-splattered print.

Basically, I walked away from the show thinking about shoes and about how lovely it would be to be 5’10” and 110 pounds (ok, not really) so I could wear skin-tight nude dresses.

Central Saint Martins grad Mary Katrantzou showed her collection right after Mark Fast’s.

Her bold prints were inspired by perfume bottles, sometimes abstractedly and sometimes so literally that I could see the Hermes ribbons and the shape of Lancome’s Tresor.

The prints were the easiest thing to notice but the dresses themselves were beautifully made. A long column in black and silver cut down the middle to reveal a panel of sheer grey fabric begged to be walked down a red carpet.

Mary began her career as a jewelry designer and stylist Keegan Singh accessorized the dresses with bold chunky gold and black necklaces and bracelets that were just as covetable as the clothes.

They’re the kind of dresses you can only wear once - but you want to wear them everyday.

Mark Fast, Central Saint Martins grad and knit-wear genius, showed his Fall 09 collection at The Natural History Museum yesterday morning - though you’d be hard pressed to wear his clothes in the fall.

After a fake thunder storm via strobe lights and rain music, the young designer sent out a string of super-duper short dresses. They were so short in fact that the models couldn’t help but repeatedly tug them down along the runway. There were a couple of chunkier knit pieces - one in dusty pink and another one, banded, in shiny purple. A few came ripped and shredded but the best were such fine knit, varying from sheer to opaque so subtly, that they just looked perfectly worn in.

Some of the knits resembled velvet and the last dress was so fringed, so heavy, that you could see the poor model’s muscles tensing just to make it move.

Luckily the audience responded with very enthusiastic applause - especially considering it was 9am on basically the last day of London Fashion Week.

When the last look came out at the Narciso show on Raquel last Wednesday night, everyone kind of oohed and we wondered who would be the first lucky girl to rock his sequined ballerina look (because we knew this one practically came with a sign that would read,”Photograph me, you know you want to”).

And everyone was right - the dress has already had its first real world appearance, at the Oscars exactly four days after its runway debut, on actress Rachel Weisz.

But now the real question remains: Who’ll be the second to wear this dress, and land themselves on Who-Wore-It-Better’s across the country?

In case you were wondering about Coco’s on-screen skills for E! Canada, here’s a peek of her talking her way through some of New York Fashion Week.

Considering that talking has never been part of her job, we think she does ok.

[And in the unlikely event that you’ve missed Coco’s and Heidi Klum’s stint in Modelinia’s Spiked Heel, we kindly suggest you check it out as soon as possible.]

Here’s to hoping the House of Style people wake up soon.

1) Why is Daphne Guinness here?

2) This is like the only show not sponsored by Barbie so why do all of the models look like Barbie?

3) Why does the program say these clothes are inspired by monks?

4) Is the hair modeled after Alice Dellal?

5) Why does Daisy Lowe still have her Pam Hogg runway hair from this morning?

6) Which intern wants to DIY the shag clutches?

7) Where have Chanel and Catherine been for the past four days?

8) Who will wear this first, Lindsay or Nicole?

The New York Fall 09 runways saw a curious mishmash of trends - More “downtown” ideas like neon, cut-outs, and what could only be referred to as hooker boots, alongside more “uptown” looks like fur, cascading ribbons, and peplums.

Behnaz Sarafpour, Chris Benz and J Mendel all worked in that last one, which makes us wonder, was Pretty Woman on everybody’s inspiration board this summer?

WHICH vintage model refused to walk the finale of the only show she walked during New York Fashion Week? Her feet hurt, she doesn’t like heels, and she just refused to budge.

Sir Paul Smith stuck with the basics for his Fall 09 collection.

Models strutted down the pink and green runway inside Claridge’s Ballroom last night, wearing everything from fair isle sweater dresses to almost military uniforms to floral dresses.

It started out eclectic Brit before entering military territory. Once there, he showed brass buttoned coats and capes and dresses with rhinestone epaulets and baggy trousers. There was a long mossy green gown, striped sweaters, red lips and florals at the end.

It was kind of like the Gap, but British, busier, and more expensive.

Fact: Ittierre, Just Cavalli’s licensee, recently filed for bankruptcy protection because they ran out of cash.

Fact: Just Cavalli just cancelled their Milan Fashion Week show for next week.

Most likely outcome: Just Cavalli is going out of business?

We don’t know anybody that actually wears Roberto’s subsidiary brand, but more importantly, this would mean less Kate in FOB’s everywhere.

Aw.

Roksanda Ilincic showed her Fall 09 collection in a proper British library yesterday afternoon at Whitehall.

It was sponsored by Barbie - who continues to reign over Fashion Week on this side of the pond, too - but featured a string of dresses much too elegant for the iconic plastic doll.

The Central St. Martin’s grad, as someone said, “makes high fashion you can actually wear.” Her dresses are Rodarte pretty and equally well made, but you can wear them regardless of whether you’re Keira Knightley or not.

Dresses came in pinks and greys with lace and rhinestone detailing. There was a black coat made entirely of ruffles and tops and skirts made out of what looked like fancy aluminum foil. The models wore fabric discs on each side of their head, Mickey Mouse-like, but the oversized gold bow bracelets made up for them.

If we were ladies who lunch, this is what we’d lunch in.

Marios Schwab’s stiff white invitation was embedded with squares of red and blue film to make a handy pair of 3-D glasses.

It was also at the Topshop venue, which means food. So I hauled myself to the University of Westminster - in the battle of hunger versus exhaustion, the former almost always wins - and, despite last season’s disappointing show, absolutely loved Schwab’s Fall 09 collection.

I also loved watching Daphne Guinness in the front row - watching the way that woman dresses and conducts herself is like watching an editorial come to life, a really great one.

Anyway, Schwab’s dresses were beautifully built, creative and colorful - so much color this fall. It’s like he started with shifts and constructed frames around them, folding and dipping fabric to position the basic dress within a sort of shell. The bold prints stood on their own, without help from the 3-D glasses. In fact, everyone lifted their invite at the first sign of a psychedelic print, shook their head and put it down. You didn’t want anything in the way of you and these clothes.

And that was only the second show of the best day of the season.

Full disclosure: I didn’t know much about Pam Hogg before her show this afternoon except that she used to play music, that LOVE has a David Sims-shot editorial of her clothes and that hers was a really coveted ticket since it’s the first time she’s shown a proper collection in years.

But it was clear, walking into the Science Museum, that this was the show for the cool kids. And, yes, everyone even remotely related to fashion in this city looks pretty cool, so I’m referring to a whole new level of cool. Even the six-year-old boy in front of me had a guitar purse and majorly mohawked hair. The crowd, including Gareth Pugh, oohed, ahhed and cheered with the kind of enthusiasm usually reserved for Charlotte Ronson’s familial shows.

Dazed’s Fashion Editor Katie Shillingford styled the show which opened with jumpsuits: Neon jumpsuits, pastel jumpsuits, metallic jumpsuits made of latex, velvet, lace and leather before moving into more wearable dresses in the same aesthetic.

Her final pieces - a barely there dress of layers and layers of tulle, a completey sheer beribboned gown and the black lace, rhinestone encrusted goth bride dress on Alice Dellal at the end of the show - were really spectacular, especially considering she handmade all of her samples with just one other person.

Afterwards, we wondered just how much Lady Gaga’s clothing line will be inspired by Pam’s.

A while back I said I want to be the kind of woman who wears Bottega Veneta when she grows up. For now, I wish I was the kind of girl who wears Giles Deacon.

Yes, I know, few people actually wear Giles, but those who do are really fucking lucky - the man is a genius. Which must be why the security was prison-tight. At the door:

“Hack. Jefferson Hack.”

“I’m sorry sir. What did you say your surname was?”

And then I heard this:

“I’m his sister! I don’t need an invite!”

“Everyone needs an invitation, ma’am.”

“But I’m Giles’ sister!! Look, here’s our Mum!”

Once in, I stood atop a platform in the darkened, ridiculously small, overly packed, green-tinted venue to try and take better pictures (I’m working on it, I swear) and watched one of the best collections I’ve ever seen walk down a runway.

Fresh, stellar, amazing doesn’t begin to describe it. The clothes - chunky knit ball skirts with corseted tops, violently studded and spiked shift dresses, massively jeweled t-shirts, stiff strapless dresses in gold silk and grey wool - were unreal. The energy was through the roof, and though I’ll admit the furry hot dog outfit kind of threw me for a loop, everything from the Stephen Jones hats atop the models’ heads to the slouchy platform boots on their feet was perfect.

I know I’m gushing. But really, it was brilliant.

SHOP FLASH: If you can’t wait for the Richard Chai sale on Gilt.com tomorrow, try Den on East 11th - the concept store is now all about Chai for the next few months.

News flash:

Looks like a reality stint on the CW can actually land you a real job at ELLE. Plenty of people thought that Stylista couldn’t possibly result in an actual job at one of the world’s top magazines, even after others swore it really would.

But now, Johanna, the show’s only-season winner, is blogging for ELLE.com - check out her interview with Rad Hourani - which means she must actually have a real, paid job with the Hachette glossy.

She’s says she’s been working very closely with linebacker Stewart Bradley. How’s that for a reality check?

The next logical step after the last year’s stripper platforms?

To: Tips@Fashionista.com

From: Photo[at]vmagazine.com

Hi Fashionista,

Hope all is well! V Magazine’s photo/bookings/casting department is in search of great interns who can help out- school credit can be arranged if necessary. The interns will assist in all aspects of the booking process (photographers, hair, makeup, models) and photo/credits (proofing, organizing, logging files, etc). Very hands on and a great work environment. Please be available at least 2 days a week, the internship is unpaid but there’s plenty of experience to be gained and more than a few fabulous parties :)

Yes, the above e-mail address is real this time, so good luck!

New York Fashion Week may have been sparse with retro hair and makeup looks, but that didn’t stop designers from having some serious nail nostalgia.

Ruffian, Thakoon, ThreeAsfour and FORM all went retro for their runway manicures, taking inspiration from a look featured in a 1936 issue of Vogue. The original look consisted of a coral nail bed and bare moon, but nail artists for CND updated the old idea using blacks, whites and reds for a look that was both classically mod and slightly futuristic.

But more importantly, would you wear it?

—MEGAN MCINTYRE

[IMAGES FROM CND]

This is Emily DiDonato.

You may recognize her from the Spring 09 Guess ads, or maybe from her many editorials. If you’re not familiar with her yet, you will be: As of Friday, she’s the new Maybelline girl.

She’s seventeen, from New York, signed with Request, and we seriously think she has what it takes to compete with the Gisele’s of the world.

Stay tuned on this girl’s career.

WHICH model’s surgically enhanced breasts are the talk of London town? Proper model that is, not of the Daisy, Alice, Geldof tribe.

Eglantine, Actress

Got Her: At the PPQ show at the Burlington Arcade.

Stalked Her: Because we’ve been trying to knit a neck thing like that since our senior year of college. We’re about half way through. And, because we love a good stripe.

Shot Her: Because it takes a certain kind of woman to pull off stripes like that on legs. Plus, we couldn’t stop staring at her hair.

She Says: “I’m doing London Fashion Week interviews for iTV5 and it’s been so much fun! I’m going to squeeze in at the end to watch the PPQ show because I really love their clothes.”

We Say: We really love yours.

Of all the trends that popped up last week during New York Fashion Week (so much more on that later), the one that took us by surprise most was the use of fur by designers who’d never designed with animal skins in the past.

First, we saw it at Ohne Titel, then at Alexander Wang and Thakoon (whose shows were actually sponsored by Saga Furs), and then finally at Marchesa (left).

We’re not really sure what this means - has fur become more acceptable? Is it a backlash against “restrained” times? - but consider this: Fall 09 was the first time in ages that PETA didn’t protest at the Tents.

In fact, the PETA presence was much less this time around, which makes us wonder, has fur won the battle?

The only reason one wakes up at 7 am after two hours of sleep on a gloomy London morning is for Luella.

Her show was held at the Flower Cellars in Covent Garden which sounds pretty but is actually the same dungeon-like space Fashion Fringe was held at this past fall. It was an appropriate venue for her edgier, grown-up school girl collection.

Fall 09 comes dressed in tweeds, retro sweaters and covered with over-sized hooks and eyes. The party dresses shone, of course, in chunky sheer and metallic stripes. Each model had her own hair-do (so Marc, again) and cutesy hair accessories in typical Luella style. There were shiny patent trenches and totes, layered chiffon prints and slouchy, skinny jeans.

Starlets love their Luella but this time around a London friend had to point out Girls Aloud members and Skins actors - though I got Peaches and Erin O’Connor on my own.

And this might be the first of Luella’s collection that Erin can actually wear.

Last night, I came to terms with the fact that talking to Matthew Williamson is about as close as I’ll ever get to talking to Johnny Depp. And I think I’m ok with that.

He sat front row at Sienna and Savannah Miller’s show at some place called The Dairy. We walked down a long gravel path into a champagne and cigarette smoke-filled tent before entering another tent for the super small show.

The British designer and friend to Sienna sat next to Roisin Murphy who sat one seat away from Alexa Chung, a few down from Leigh Lezark (where’d she come from?) who talked to Lydia Hearst.

According to the program, the collection was inspired by Jean Luc Goddard and Charlie Chaplin. According to us, it was inspired by Sienna Miller. There were waistcoats, skinny jeans, super cute girly dresses that were beyond short (and I’m a huge fan of short). The show ended with colorful sequins or beads (I couldn’t really tell) over thin black jersey shirts and dresses. Jourdan closed the show with the sexy sparkly dress at left.

And you can add the chunky studded platforms to the list of awesome shoes taking London Fashion Week by storm.

I get to PPQ about five minutes early. I’m meeting Rebecca from Elle.com and despite our seated status, we and the rest of the crowd are locked outside a gate. While the show should be starting, workmen bring in the benches.

Alexa Chung slides by and The Moment twitters that editors are being turned away while socialites are flying in. We get past the gate and there’s a bar serving PPQ lemonade - which has no lemonade and tastes like straight Pim’s. By now, we’re practically in a mosh pit. No one’s let behind the curtain - not even Alexa Chung - until 8:37.

Everyone’s told to put down their glasses, alcohol spills, a girl slips, her knee cracks, she passes out and the stampede rushes on into the almost mile long arcade. Rebecca and I pick her up and get her sorted before taking our seat in the mono-row, (how Marc).

By now it’s 8:53 and 2812 starts in Camden in seven minutes. Colin McDowell and Hilary Alexander both get up and leave. The British Vogue editors behind me chatter, “That’s interesting, should we go too?”

As I’m about to bolt, the lights go down and Daisy Lowe stomps her way down the runway.

The clothes are bright, the braids are plastic and the shoes are fun.

I do indeed bolt before the finale and thank god that I’ve made it this far without passing out, falling down or trampling any passerby.

The picture at left is from Danielle Scutt’s Fall 09 collection.

No really, it’s not a model wearing her Ricky’s Halloween costume from last year.

Because would a designer as awesome as Danielle Scutt really send that down her runway? Especially when she’s showing a teen-tiny collection during extremely tough economic times?

Well, yeah. Apparently.

She also showed printed spandex bodysuits covered in zippers, unzipped to show strips of flesh here and there. There were lace up pants, cut-out flames on coat lapels and a sheer top underneath a torso corset with rhinestones splashed across the breasts.

A couple of the dresses, including a textured t-shirt shift and the fifth one when you click through, we really loved. Otherwise, it would’ve been nice to caffeine-load instead.

Emilio de la Morena showed his collection just after Krystof’s - to the half-socialite front row including Alexa Chung and half-industry heavy hitter front row including Natalie Massenet.

The clothes were like couture Jetson costumes, so fun to watch trot down a runway atop 5” Charlotte Olympia red suede booties.

Dresses came in burnt gold, cherry red and plums with plastic decals, felt and beads embroidered mostly in the back. There was a pixelated houndstooth print and some very unusual over-sized handcuff looking jewelry.

Will anyone aside from Roisin Murphy actually stick this collection in their closet? Probably not, but it’s shows like this that make Fashion Week so much fun.

There was a girl sitting across from me at Krystof Strozyna.

She looked familiar, and not just because I was obsessed with her outfit yesterday, but because she looked like a retro version of Alice Dellal. Cue the killer shoes with red-trimmed soles and a sugar rush from the Godiva chocolates at Chris Kane and I finally realized it must be the model’s sister and shoe designer, Charlotte Olympia.

Her major platforms complimented newcomer Krystof’s geometric collection. He played with thick thread and loose knits over jersey with lots and lots and lots of cut outs before diving into a few neon pieces.

His ideas were excellent - the execution, less so. But for a young designer, whom we can only assume lacks endless funds, it was a great success.

This morning’s Christopher Kane show opened quietly - the clothes, I mean.

The internationally packed front row, including Jefferson Hack, Anna Piaggi and Vivienne Westwood, and its consequent flashbulbs weren’t quite as calm.

Kane’s collection seemed to be moving in a menswear direction. He opened with blazers and oversize knit sweaters over slightly flouncy skirts before breaking out the layered sheer dresses with velvet stripes and sort of Elizabethan details. Jessica Stam wore an intricately bodiced pink party dress and the shearling motorcycle jacket Hanne layered over her ruffled party dress was perfect.

Shoes were either velvet cage heels or flat patent oxfords. Make-up was minimal, the jewelry non-existent and the music sounded like the jungle.

If Kane’s giant $7000 paillette dresses could can sell out of Net-a-Porter in a day, we give these an hour. It might be the best collection so far.

“Who was your first love?”

“Will Smith in The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air.” —Doutzen Kroes in LOVE.

Last night’s Vivienne Westwood Red Label show was held in National Hall, a giant sports like venue complete with stadium seating.

Lily Cole sat front row while the likes of Daisy Lowe and Alice Dellal insisted on clomping their way down the concrete runway. Jourdan Dunn opened, for the second season in a row, and Jo Wood, ex-wife of Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood, closed.

The collection was inspired by school girls and their naughty head mistresses which meant loads of plaid and cleavage-inducing corsets worn with massive over-the-,knee boots made of chintz in golds and pinks, see Tanya D at left.

The clothes were classic, casual Vivienne with some pirate hats and bondage shoes thrown in for good measure. We’ll wait for Paris’ Gold Label show to really rave.

Someone who’d caught a preview of the Ann Sofie Back show told me, “It’s really scary.”

So when the lights went dark after Peter Jensen (the two Topshop sponsored designers showed back to back), I was ready.

Cue Psycho soundtrack, zombie make-up, a sweatshirt printed with “Boo!” and Bride of Frankenstein hair - they even made the models walk like Karlie - but the clothes themselves weren’t so scary.

They were black, sure, and ripped, but Urban Outfitters is stocked with ripped clothes so any scare factor is long gone. There were dream catchers woven onto dresses and feathers strung from skirts and sweaters over lacy leggings. The models wore oversized blazers and boyfriend jeans, all those ripped, too, and witchy boots decorated with feathers and bells.

Honestly, we spent most of the show wondering just what Lydia Hearst and Kanye West could possibly be talking about.

I swung backstage at Basso & Brooke about ten minutes before show time.

The first thing I noticed, besides the stunning sheer tea dress with beaded lace embroidered on top of it, was Stephen Jones holding court with his muse Anna Piaggi by a table full of very odd headbands.

“Can you tell me a bit about what you’ve done for the show?” I asked.

And as he answered, he started fitting them on my head. For the answer, check out Teen Vogue, but know that in my mind that’s like Christian Louboutin fitting a shoe on my foot - a major fashion moment.

Anyway, post-moment, I landed in my seat in the Bloomsbury Ballroom and watched Basso’s fantastical, brightly printed collection parade on by. This season their prints seemed focused on texture. Some were made to look like Greek columns, others fur, some lace, some zippers, almost all accessorized with hefty baroque looking jewelry. The shoes were elf-ish and the clutches had pearl handles which doubled as bracelets.

Also, there was crimped hair like the models also rocked at Erin Fetherston. One more show with crimped hair and I’m officially breaking out my vintage crimper when I get home.

Becky, Topshop Designer

Got Her: At London’s Topshop venue where all the NewGen shows are held.

Stalked Her: Because we’ve never seen a real life girl, with a real life body, pull off a cropped top.

Shot Her: Because London’s full of over the top wacky fashions (we promise to bring you those, too) that we love to look at. But sometimes it’s even more admirable to be subtly fashion forward.

She Says: “It’s all Topshop! But the top’s vintage. This is the only show I’ve got time for unfortunately. We’re quite busy!”

We Say: Someone’s got to make the cute clothes.

Like any good American girl, I’m obsessed with Topshop.

And like any good fashion obsessed girl, I love Katie Grand.

But I have to admit, the Katie Grand styled Topshop Unique show was kind of a mess.

The clothes were very new rave, neon and kind of grungy. Liu Wen, Karlie (walking her first London Fashion Week), Jourdan & co. stomped down the runway in hooded anoraks and massive, blanket-like scarves. There were Balmain-shouldered sweatshirts paired with patchwork leather skirts, ill-fitting tube dresses and a hooded multi-colored sequined jumpsuit to top it all off.

Meanwhile, the accessories rocked, especially the glow stick necklaces and clutches.

Before the show, Hanne Gaby Odiele complained about her fat legs.

During the show, I sat right behind Daisy Lowe, Pixie Geldof and Lydia Hearst (from here on out referred to as the Brit It-Girls). I’d stuffed my face half full of delicious Topshop meringues before someone was kind enough to point out that I’d be in every single paparazzi picture this side of the Atlantic.

Whatever, the meringue was delicious. Wish the clothes were, too.

Sitting at the Charles Anastase show, we felt like London Fashion Week had really started.

It was a sweaty, hot, mad mess in what looked like someone’s really large flat. The PR’s screamed: “Is Suzy coming?”, “Yes!”, “No, I’ve just rung her driver!”, “Get Tim Blanks!”, “Is he downstairs?”, “Yes! Yank him up the stairs!” while Pixie Geldof held court in the front row with Diane Pernet and Daisy Lowe crashed half way through.

The collection was part punk, part wearable. We’d rock the plaid jackets and striped skirts anywhere, though we probably wouldn’t tie our arms down with rope; the oversized pink cardigan was striking, though no hand chains, please; the shoes were unreal though we’d need them 3” shorter and minus the smeared mud.

Shirts came printed with “Dementia,” “Don’t Kiss,” and “Malia Obama” and the models wore the goth red lip that was everywhere in New York.

Very excited chatter led the way downstairs.

The first show of the second day of London Fashion Week was John Rocha.

After four tube transfers and a giant coffee, I squeezed my way into the BFC tent for the playful collection.

It started with a strong showing of black - textured black, matte black, shiny black - usually accented with exagerrated versions of those Marc Jacobs Fall 08 crown/headband pieces. Then he moved into orange party dresses and swingy sheer dresses (almost hooped skirts) with awesome puffy Minnie Mouse-like rhinestone collars and a selection of baby pink dresses, gold shifts and a few pieces of fur.

The models wore turquoise eyeshadow in the same style as the orange stripes at Vena Cava - a look we can’t wait to attempt come spring.

It was the absolute longest runway show I’ve ever been to - at least fifty looks - in the absolute hottest venue. By the time I bolted out to catch the Fashion Bus to Charles Anastase I’d literally stripped down to my slip.

In the five hours since I’ve arrived in London, I’ve gotten my hands on a copy of LOVE, (three actually, don’t know why), been proposed to by a cab driver, run into Br(It) Boy on the street, learned the BFC’s done away with standing room, blown a fuse at my hotel, been carded to buy beer (the drinking age is sixteen here), poked my head into Topshop and managed to make it to one show - Ashish.

And if that one show is any indication of what’s to come, London just doesn’t know what recession you’re talking about.

Ashish Gupta showed his Fall 09 collection at the Hippodrome in Leicester Square. Pre-show entertainment included an acrobat a la Cirque du Soleil while the show itself featured a fantastic performance by V.V. Brown, the up-and-coming British singer who’s just been shot for Vogue UK’s May issue.

And the clothes? Well, they were sequined. I don’t mean sequin skirts or sequin tops, I’m talking all sequins. He showed sequined jeans, sequined gloves, a sequined hoodie, sequined Nordic print sweaters, sequined zebras - it was more sparkle than I’ve ever seen, and you should consider that I did recently attend Richie Rich. There were also pompoms and leopard print tights and the American flag and crowns of thorns.

It was actually the perfect thing to jerk me awake post-red-eye.

PS Tune in over the weekend for more London Fashion Week!

Looks like the r-word hit the runways harder than we thought. I heard the term “DIY” batted around backstage so much it had me wondering if next season we might see models backstage with lash curlers and cans of Elnett in hand.

The smoky makeup at Chris Benz and Anna Sui along with the hair at Jason Wu, Rag & Bone, Wren and Miss Sixty were all fashioned to look as if the models had done it themselves. At the Twinkle by Wenlan show, MAC’s Gregory Arlt took the inspiration quite literally, letting some models curl their own lashes to get his “50’s girl on a first date” look.

Good news for those of us trying to recreate these straight-from-the-runway looks at home, not so great news for beauty pros if some designers actually decide to take their words at face value and let the models do their own thing. While I doubt the reality of that particular scenario, you never really can be sure. Stranger things have happened at the tents.

—MEGAN MCINTYRE

To understand just how cool Jen Kao’s Fall 09 collection - only her third - is, you must first simply look at it: Ooh, this looks cool. But then it must be studied: Wow, amazing.

She explained to us this afternoon that she was inspired by the triangle and its place as, in her opinion, the strongest of the geometric shapes. If that sounds insane to you, consider the visual translation: Suede and denim triangular-paneled dresses, clingy tops made of jersey that somehow looks much stronger than a fabric best known for its easy draping, leather tops perforated with tiny triangles that look more like mesh but feel like a thick spider web, and triangular, metal sequins that lend the appearance of armor but with the quiet glitz of something you’d actually wear.

The collection, which was incredibly small for something that could suffice for a wardrobe - dresses, pants, shorts, leggings, hoodies, tops, they were all there - was complemented by jewelry from Eddie Borgo, who’s previously worked with Marchesa and Phillip Lim. Cosmically, Eddie was feeling the triangle for Fall 09, too, and his minimal yet high-impact designs around the girls’ necks and wrists really brought the idea full circle. Each girl looked kind of tough and strong, but not in an over-the-top neo-punk way, just enough so that you got the idea without any overkill.

Jen Kao is definitely someone to watch - and that’s the best possible final note for New York Fashion Week.

On our last day of Fashion Week, it was a nice change to only have to walk a couple blocks from our office to the Iisli presentation at their store on Bond st.

After walking into the store, which kind of looks like a a big white box floating within a storefront, we spotted mannequins dressed in the most comfy looking duds. Barely after glimpsing the first scarf atop sweater atop blouse we’re told that this season, Iisli is all about layering. Each mannequin is indeed swathed in the softest looking knits, with chiffon and silk popping up here and there. Our favorite parts were the small details in unexpected places - a leather collar on a feminine chiffon blouse, knit fringing along a hem, and corset bones knit into a sweater.

We were then directed towards a look that Isli calls her “modern suit” which consists of knit leggings, loose blouse and a cozy sweater jacket - if this is what modernity looks like then we’re loving the times. A lot of Isli’s looks were made up of clothes so comfy you could sleep in them - notching groundbreaking, but surely lovable.

—HAYLEY PHELAN

The good people at Leifsdottir took it upon themselves to feed all the hungry show-goers last night with a good old fashioned feast. There were glazed pies, huge baguettes, grapes, apples, muffins - we half expected to see a roasted pig. Best of all there were elaborate cocktails - something, that has been a bit lacking this season.

To go with our munchies, was a beautifully adorned venue that kind of made you feel you had walked into a run-down mansion with worn-in Persian rugs, flickering candles and old portraits. Going with the theme, Leifsdottir had their models do a variety of things we’d think you’d do in a mansion: play cards, read an ancient looking book, and fan yourself with a feather.

The clothes were very Leifsdottir - playful prints, soft fabrics and wearable, flattering shapes. There was a lot of mustard yellow - a color we’ve been happily seeing at a lot of shows. We particularly loved the blouses, which would look great on just about any occasion. Plus the detailing in the black cocktail dress and pencil skirt add so much interest to black pieces. We’ll definitely be wearing them in our mansion.

—HAYLEY PHELAN

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

Morning.

It’s the first day of Fashion Week here in London, but here’s a sneak peek of next week’s Luella collection, which I’ve (magically) already seen:

Black & Gold

Military

Lots of big bows (obviously)

I don’t want to spoil the show, so the only other thing I’ll say is that it is good.

Yours,

—BR(IT) BOY

But if you’re itching for Luella right now, you may have missed during the week’s swirl that some key Spring 09 pieces are up on Net-a-Porter.

When we first heard about Bravo’s Project Runway replacement, Fashion House, we chalked it up to being a desperate move and a show that probably no one would watch.

Consider our tune changed: Bravo’s just announced the show’s judges, and they’re none other than Isaac Mizrahi (whom we wish we could carry around in our pocket for running commentary all day) and IMG’s Fern Mallis! (Oh, um, also Kelly Rowland, but let’s just skip over that part.)

The show airs sometime later this year, and pits professional designers against each other in a series of challenges for the chance to have their line available for sale in a “major retail outlet” (which we’re sure will be a major help to whichever department store signed on for this).

But back to what’s important: If Isaac can somehow work Sketches & Answers into this - maybe while the credits roll? - we’re hooked.

Update: Bravo’s changed the show’s name to The Fashion Show. Very descriptive.

Toni Hacker and Ben Harnett held their Fall 09 presentation in Room 219 of the Chelsea Hotel last night, and we’re pretty sure nobody wanted to leave.

It actually felt like a party - The clothes, shoes, bags, bracelets and belts were strewn about the four-room suite, sometimes in drawers, sometimes on the models (who posed with Milk Duds, Whoppers and whatever else), sometimes hanging off lampshades, pretty much everywhere.

The layout was like a treasure hunt, and it perfectly underscored how precious every piece of Hayden-Harnett feels. Plus, with the models stuffing their faces (one finally had to snatch a bag of cheese poofs away from another before she made herself sick) the whole mood felt funny enough so that you actually talked to other people you didn’t know - a Fashion Week oddity for sure.

The collection itself was so covetable we’re already tearing pages out of the look book. The best pieces were easily identified: The little box clutch (at left), and the spat-boot-heels (whatever you call these) with Victorian style buttons down the front. Toni wanted the presentation to give you the impression that the models were just a bunch of girls that live in the room, and never leave (hence the Rapunzel braids) except to sometimes go out and buy candy. And it worked - by the end, you pretty much only wanted to deck yourself out in a leather necklace and kimono-style dress, eat Twizzlers and never leave. In fact, Hayden-Harnett almost made us late to Zac Posen, and we think that pretty much sums up how it went.

Kai Kuhne showed at the Eyebeam last night, our favorite Fashion Week venue, and he did not disappoint.

Though the show was a bit serious - and the Golden Girls-style wigs the models wore too funny when you thought about it - the actual clothes were so technical that most people’s heads moved with the models.

Kai Kuhne has showcased his talent for tailoring every season since his break with Asfour (now called ThreeAsfour) in 2005, but Fall 09 was about structure to the extreme - Even loose-fitted pants had enough strategically placed seams and gathers to make them fall just so, and the majority of the dresses had so many cuts and folds you’d have thought they could stand up all on their own.

Of course, the one problem is that the incredibly elegant, super long, super lean silhouette works almost only on models, so whether we ever see these clothes outside of the Eyebeam remains to be seen.

We almost didn’t get into Zac Posen tonight. Not because we weren’t invited, but because, apparently, Zac Posen has the tightest security ever. You couldn’t even get to the front doors of the Tents without your actual paper invite in hand (which hardly anyone carries around all day), so we, and many other people, ended up at the top of the stairs arguing with a quartet of security guards, trying to explain that if we really were crashers, then we could never get in once inside the lobby anyway (this argument did not work at all).

Instead, we frantically searched our iPhone for the RSVP confirmation, watched actual crashers give up immediately once security asked for the invite, watched actual editors get hassled and freak out, tried calling several people who we thought could be in the Tents and possibly help, before the nicest of the guards secretly let us in on the side. Phew.

When we got to the check-in table, we had to actually produce a photo ID. While fishing through our wallet that won’t even close these days (cab receipts), we had to ask: What’s with the security tonight?” One of the PR girls responded that this show gets exceptionally crashed, with people rushing the doors, bringing last season’s invites, sometimes making invites, and, even worse, using other people’s names. So, understandable. Still, it would be nice if one of those nice girls from inside could have stood on the steps to let in the people that they at least recognize.

Alas, the show goes on: Zac’s Fall 09 opened with the piano-playing sibling quintet, the 5 Browns, and with clothes so sumptuous you’d have thought you were in Rococo times (or, at least, sometime before September). Every single look was totally over the top, especially the coats fit for majesties (or, Andre Leon Talley).

The most annoying part had to be when we looked over at the front row (Rachel Bilson, Claire Danes, Sandra Bernhard), because we finally understood why Zac had more security than a fur convention. But the best part, other than Alek Wek’s surprise spin on the runway, had to be Coco’s: As she made her way to the pit, someone yelled out, “Now there’s a woman!” She cracked a smile and a laugh, and so did everyone else.

We stopped by the Hayden-Harnett presentation at the Chelsea Hotel tonight (more on that later) where we caught up with the brand’s mastermind, Toni Hacker.

We talked about the shoes, the bags, the belts, the necklaces, the clothes, the cheese balls (yes, later), but most importantly, Toni said this:

“Oh! We’re actually opening a store right by you in March!”

Come again?

“Yeah, we’re opening up our second store on Elizabeth Street, between Prince and Houston.”

Are you taking up the old Mayle space? And when?

“Oh no, Mayle is sacred. It’s a different spot on the same block. Sometime in early March, we’re shooting for March 7th.”

Wow! How come I haven’t read this anywhere? Have you told anyone?

“No, not yet. Well, I just told you, so…”

Perfect.

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

Beauty inspiration backstage can run the gamut from “English Rose” to “Post-Apocalyptic Bladerunner Chic.” But this season, it looks like the name of the game is mostly just rock ‘n roll.

Rock as an inspiration is nothing new - it pops up every season. But this time around things feel a bit different. Those that don’t take the “clean, fresh and simple” route are edging farther and farther into grungy, hard rock territory. Usually, Fall brings lots of retro-glam or Victorian-era looks to the runways, but the general feel from backstage is that this season is a lot harder and rawer than those past.

Hence the rock stars. There was boyish and British Quadrophenia hair at Preen, “Mick Jagger’s poet rock girlfriend” at 3.1 Phillip Lim, a gorgeous purple smoky eye at Miss Sixty, and the very fitting “street rock n’ roll” greasy hair and smoky cat eyes at Yigal Azrouël.

There was even a “walk of shame” theme at Carlos Campos, with models sporting pallid skin and a creamy, dark eye smudged off on the outer corners, as if someone had hurriedly tried to make the vampy eye look respectable for the light of day and the long walk home (been there, done that).

My favorites were the badass black and white eyes created by MAC’s James Kaliardos at Preen, and the ribbon-bedecked, “Seventeenth Century Rock Star” braids whipped together by Redken’s David Cruz at Abaete.

I for one am glad to see the Retro and Romantic Goth trends (with a few notable exceptions) phasing out. You can only see so many pin curls and “brooding” dark lips before you just want to hit the makeup artist over the head with your notepad.

Raw and deconstructed is so much more interesting than perfectly polished. Just don’t take it to Little J levels of raccoon grunge.

—MEGAN MCINTYRE

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

Catherine Malandrino’s 11am show this morning was surprisingly well-attended considering it was on the “am” side of the week’s Day Seven: Garance Dore, Scott Schuman, Michelle Trachtenberg, Linda Fargo, Mary J Blige and Coco Rocha - exhausted and flubbing her lines for E! Canada - all sat front row, sixty-five floors up in the Rainbow Room.

The collection was what you’d expect: One pretty dress after another, with a few separates, and more examples of the season’s neon trend in the form of a few bright fuschia gowns.

But the real story was the show itself: The Rainbow Room, up until recently, was one of the most expensive restaurants in the city. In fact, it was so expensive that the recession has hit them especially hard, and they haven’t served food in a while, and won’t until TBD. But for Catherine Malandrino’s show, there was a huge breakfast spread with juice bar for all of her guests to enjoy, and the models walked on a circular runway that literally twirled. The setting was a little odd for this Fashion Week, but the thing is, Catherine knew it.

The music began with a croaky version of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow,” then another song all about dreaming, and the soundtrack ended with an ironic version of “New York, New York.” Even the unrealistic hair - pulled into bubbles atop the crowns of the girls’ heads with hairnets - seemed to say, “I know, I know, but this is who I am!”

So basically, nothing’s keeping Catherine Malandrino from business as usual, as long as she gets to wink from the back. And right now, we can appreciate that.

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

News flash:

LOVE has not just a blog now, but also a full blown site on the Conde Net network.

Excerpts, images, funny quotes from Lara Stone, Alber Elbaz, Agyness Deyn, etc, and the ability to zoom in on parts of Beth Ditto’s cover - it’s all there.

You know, in case you’re looking to read about something other than clothes.

Ok, back to the shows.

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

When we walked into the Devi Kroell presentation fashionably late at 6pm, we were surprised to find a row of models exiting off a runway, one by one. For a second we thought we’d missed it. Thankfully, Devi Kroell’s presentation was more like a runway show in slo-mo running on a loop. After a short pause filled with the beating of eastern-style drums, the models began filing out again.

In her own words, the collection represents the “quintessential New Yorker.” We’d like to stick “put together” and “insanely stylish” in there, too. The colors were a rich combination of marigold, deep turquoise and plum and the textures were just as sumptuous - mohair jackets, velvet blazers and shiny pants.

Plus the gold runway kind of made us feel like we were at Studio 54. And what’s more New York than that?

—HAYLEY PHELAN

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

At the 3.1 Phillip Lim show last night, stylist Odile Gilbert was fitting all the models with custom snipped, mushroom-shaped wigs. Well, not all the models — show opener Tao Okamoto was left wig-free. That’s because the Japanese stunner was Lim’s beauty inspiration for last night’s show.

Gilbert and Nars’s lead makeup artist, Ayako, both confirmed that Lim was so taken with Okamoto’s now signature cut, he told her not to be surprised when she showed up backstage to see all the models looking just like her.

I know we hear the model-as-muse story all the time, but I can’t help but smile when I see a unique and gorgeous look like Okamoto’s adapted into a runway-ready look.

—MEGAN MCINTYRE

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

[PS This set of photos is particularly beautiful.]

This was my first Anna Sui show. And it went pretty much as I had hoped.

This is what I saw: Photographers going crazy over Taylor Momsen (we really want to know who her publicist is). Peaches Geldof, on the other hand, sitting completely unnoticed (much to her dismay, we’re sure) and beside Hilary Alexander (much to her to dismay, we’re sure). Coco Rocha trumped them all by having a camera crew of her own; we seriously can’t wait for her E! Canada segments to air.

Agyness opened the show, her first Fashion Week appearance so far, wearing a feathered hat with her usual quirky aplomb. There were more feathered caps to come - almost every look was topped with a feather-adorned beanie. The first looks were all black and white, and we were beginning to think we’d be seeing a completely monochromatic show until a turquoise paisley dress popped up, after that, saffrons, navys and dark chocolates were mixed in.

At first, we were convinced the show would be military-inspired. And then we thought it referenced Russian peasantry. And then, after seeing the paisley dresses and the brown leather fringed purses, we were definitely feeling the ’70s. Finally, we decided it was a little bit of everything and in true Anna Sui style, it totally worked.

—HAYLEY PHELAN

We’re betting you missed this in the fashion flux, too: Opening Ceremony has finally launched their online store, which means you can now get your hands on all their awesomely curated duds no matter where you are.

Really, it was about time - we were starting to get annoyed with their old website that had only their address on it and my non-NYC friends have always bemoaned the fact that they couldn’t get the house brand, and some over the other lines outside of New York or LA.

While the online selection is definitely smaller than the store’s, there’s definitely enough goodies to keep you occupied. So, sit down, put away your show schedule and enjoy some much needed retail relaxation.

—HAYLEY PHELAN

Pamela Anderson crashed Richie Rich’s runway at the Waldorf-Astoria tonight.

She pranced, skipped and kicked her way down the catwalk, after the model finale, a singer, a troupe of half-naked dancing men, a Kat Deluna performance, Tinsley, Aubrey O’Day and someone else who looked vaguely familiar, in a gold, thong one-piece bathing suit with plastic coins glued to it - the crowd went nuts.

That crowd included the Paper Mag team and Lynn, Ellen Von Unwerth, Cory & the Cobrasnake, a life-sized pig and Ice-T (who’s randomly popped up at different Fashion Weeks twice now) and his wife whom we were painfully close to in the elevator.

The clothes were, well, not Heatherette, but not much of anything. They were tight, they were bright, there was a one armed spandex unitard in a purple print and lots of plastic coins inexplicably glued to the men’s barely there swimwear. There was one printed summer dress we’d actually wear but we’re pretty sure that wasn’t the point of the show.

It was to have fun and of course, with Richie, it’s always fun.

We’ve never seen a couture dress in person - at least not that we were aware of - but we always imagined it’d look a little something like the dress at left.

Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig showed their Fall 09 Marchesa collection at the Chelsea Art Museum this afternoon. The girls, all of whom looked about twelve, were split into triptychs and apparently instructed to look miserable.

No matter, the clothes spoke for themselves. There were a couple of recycled Marchesa ideas but who really cares when recycling looks like that? We spotted a few McQueen inspired dresses, lots of sequins, shimmer and lace. Their inspiration? “Fairytales,” said Keren.

The shoes, square toed platform satin ballet slippers from Christian Louboutin had us practically swooning into the arms of Matchbox 20’s Rob Thomas. We can’t imagine having a reason to wear such frothy gowns, but thank goodness we’ve got six months to justify the shoes.

Oh, and for the record, Little J’s raccoon eyes are so back.

We know you’re probably fried from Fashion Week overload, so here’s a little reminder: There’s an amazing new site all about models, called Modelinia.

It’s entirely about models, and includes some funny, online-only shows, one of which is High Heel Bootcamp. It’s exactly what it sounds like: The veteran model teaches the newbie models how to properly walk in heels, and everyone watching laughs.

Here’s an exclusive sneak-peek at tonight’s new webisode (airing at 8pm!) which we hope you’ll see. If not, we’ll assume it’s because you’re going to Richie Rich, in which case, see you there!

The greeting at the Alexandre Herchcovitch show today was the background: Pink, green, and lemon yellow. The reaction was kind of like, “Whoa, are we at Spring 2010 already?” which has happened at quite a few of the shows this week.

The clothes pretty much followed suit: Enough bright colors, florals, and flimsy little dresses to make you wonder if certain designers have decided to just forget about seasonal dressing altogether. Which isn’t to say that Alexandre abandoned Fall completely - In fact, he pretty much rounded out the hooker boots trend (see Charlotte Ronson, Ohne Titel and Rodarte for more).

The thing is, we’re pretty sure Alexandre knew he was looking ahead into another time. Not only did the xylophone notes in the music make you think of la-la land, but many of the models donned what looked to be sleep masks on their heads - But very pretty ones, of course.

Phillip Lim showed to an under-packed tent this afternoon (quite a change from last season), which consisted of some great coats, a particularly precious flapper-inspired dress, and too many pairs of maroon tights (which oddly felt right) to count. While the collection didn’t feel cohesive, it was at least pleasing to the eye, and you could absolutely see what will end up on Net-a-Porter, and what won’t.

Unfortunately, we can’t remember too much else about the show (ok, we will mention that there was a live band and two of the models needed to take their Louboutins off mid-runway) because of Kanye.

Mr. West continued his Fashion Week whirlwind today, but this time, it actually hurt. Instead of entering through the door like a normal person, he entered from backstage onto the runway. Fine, many people do this. But we’re pretty sure they don’t enter, avec entourage, while the lights are dimming (single file) so that everyone and their Blackberry can make a mental note, “Oh, Kanye’s here, and so are all his friends.”

At first we thought, “Ok, maybe he just wanted to avoid having his photo taken, or maybe he was just so busy checking out the collection that he lost track of time.” But then he sat there through the whole show, not with this eyes absolutely glued to the runway as one might assume is the only polite thing to do having stolen the thunder of the very designer you’re there to see, but snapping his fingers to the music, and alternating between staring into space, talking with the man next to him, and looking at the clothes only when the model was finally smack in front of his face.

We hope Phillip includes some Emily Post-sanctioned advice in his Thank You.

Michael Kors is thinking neon this season.

The man’s added an edge to his trenches and sheaths. He stuck Natasha Poly in leather and more leather, threw Raquel into a sleeveless camel trench with a perfect fur collar, Frankie Rayder (!) wore sequins, Coco did tweeds, Arlenis wore a Sherlock Holmes trench, Bruna got to wear a hot pink fur coat and hat, Anja slipped by in an asymettrical chartreuse shift, Carmen Kass wore more fur than I’ve ever seen and it was almost all accessorized with perfectly chunky chain necklaces.

The clothes were particularly quiet after spring’s stripes and spots - even the neon pieces were tailored and conservative.

Front row seating was a bit mixed up - the Vogue-ttes usually get to sit by the door for a quick exit but this time Anna & Co. made their way further down the runway, across from Mario Testino, while Heidi Klum, Molly Sims and Jane Krakowski held court by the pit.

And that was about the freshest thing happening at the tents this morning. Off to Marchesa!

Warning: I didn’t have time to get coffee pre-Michael Kors, so please excuse the blurry pictures, they’re a result of my blurry head.

There’s this wave of ‘celebrities’ that pop up for Fashion Week though they do nothing else year round.

Joy Bryant writes for Starworks and cameos on Rachel Zoe’s show; Rachel Bilson wears Margiela and dates Hayden Christensen; Alison Bree is actually on Mad Men but just whines the whole time; so imagine how exciting it is when someone like Alicia Keys, someone who actually does something, pops up in the front row.

Last night at Max Azria she stole all the paparazzi attention and I kind of wished we were there to hear her sing instead of watch another version of the BCBG collection parade on by. There was velvet, again, and strangely cut drapey gowns over turtleneck bodysuits and long leather sleeves with lace collars. There was, I swear, the same beaded embroidery that Justin Timberlake used at William Rast and more Balmain shoulders.

The collection was more rock n’ roll than seasons past - in fact it was basically Herve Leger without the must-use-bandage restrictions. The white lace numbers and Tinsley’s bangs were the highlight for me.

As for Alicia, that opening jacket is begging to be on stage.

Which style photog snapped at another on the steps of Bryant Park this morning? And we don’t mean his camera, more like, “Dude, don’t steal my shot”….Think outside the box.

Yesterday’s intimate Trovata show made me wish I was on the beach in California, with candles and boys who actually dress like that.

John Whiltledge might not be leading a fashion revolution, but he consistently presents clothes that everyone wants to wear. This season that meant slouchy cardigans and prairie blouses, skinny black pants tied with satin ribbons at the ankle, white Katharine Hepburn pants, suspenders, bow ties and navy blue slip dresses.

The models had trouble navigating their X walking pattern, most of them broke into smiles before they made it backstage, which made the clothes all the more appealing.

One got the feeling the Trovata racks at Barneys this fall will be as frequented by the Kate Schelters and Amy Astleys in the front row as the hipsters in standing.

We dragged our ragged selves out of bed this morning to make it to the Tents by 9am for the J Mendel show (oh yeah, it started much closer to 10) armed with Wellies at the advice of Weather.com (more on that later).

And it was worth it - It was our first time seeing a particularly fur-centric designer, which we totally forgot when we asked the security guard why he needed to look in everyone’s bag before entering (the woman in front of me actually had to take her peach out of its plastic bag to prove that the round object with an unusually long stem was, in fact, fruit.)

The clothes were as elegant and high quality Banana Republic-ish as you would expect, but the best part was the closing dress. A strapless, metallic, silk moire gown (which haven’t been much of a force this season) with pleated tulle, massive ribbons, and a back that floated to give the dress a sort of ghost train. It set off our favorite part of Fashion Week - Instant and genuine applause from a grateful crowd (a Fall 09 first)!

For your pleasure, my makeshift video (images after the jump) of the closing dress on its final round.

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

Fact: Even though people think Fashion Week parties sound “fabulous” they almost always aren’t.

So we’re very pleased that V Man and Ford are throwing a party we don’t think anybody’s going to miss, to celebrate their upcoming Spring issue and this year’s dual winners of their annual model search contest, CJ Hancock and Jake Madden (click).

The event will be held at the Chelsea Piers’ Sky Rink tomorrow night, so just picture everybody you know drinking and ice skating to Diskokaine, and you can understand why we put this one in bold on our schedule.

Also, there was a last minute event addition: An 11pm performance by an actual figure skater, Johnny Weir.

We think Fashion Week just froze over.

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

- Wow, with the exception of a few pieces, this is pretty much unwearable for Michelle Obama, but absolutely perfect for anybody looking to rock the body-con thing (or, the black-and-white camouflage that reminds a bit too much of Ben & Jerry’s).

- More cut-outs! (see Charlotte Ronson, Behnaz, Ohne Titel, Costello, etc.) Maybe gym memberships will survive the recession after all.

- Neon! Who knew Narciso and Marc were on the same page?

- The models are wearing some kind of long hats that cover their eyes, with Batman-like slits. …Is this political commentary or is he just picking up the cut-out trend with a bit of a peek-a-boo tie in?

- Raquel’s. Closing. Dress. Is. Stunning. (Sequined, deep-cut bodice - note that the sequins have more of an overall shine effect than usual - with a simply, floaty short red skirt. One wrong move and it could have crossed the line into ice figure skater territory, but Narciso keeps it clean.)

Sorry for the lack of visuals, but even Style.com’s images don’t do the collection justice, let along my own. Unfortunately, these are clothes that absolutely must be appreciated in person. But don’t worry, they’re going to be everywhere come September.

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

“Tom and Katie just walked right up to the front, and we were like, Who the f*ck are they? They’re not even in fashion!” - Kate Moss, on having to wait to get inside last year’s Met Ball, in Vogue UK.

Tibi delivered, as expected, an array of colorful and wearable pieces. There was only one problem - we couldn’t quite nail down the season. First, there were huge furry hats; then there were bright floor length dresses we’d only seen at the beach; next there were fall appropriate coats - and we’re not even going to try to guess in what season you could wear that white, peacock detailed silk jumpsuit.

Even if the show was a little seasonally confused, there were still some things we loved - the long white dress with the peasant embroidered detail was one of our favorites, and it could actually be worn year round. We loved the colors and the flattering wearability of the dresses, yet it sort of peeved us that each short dress was paired with leggings (a look I have a personal vendetta against).

Besides the clothes - the models were fun to watch, too. Lakshmi, Behati, Siri and Tanya D all walked the runway, although strangely, when Tanya got to the end, all the photographers catcalled her. And it didn’t happen just once. Each time she posed, the photographers would start hooting and hollering while Tanya tried not to break into a smile.

Looks like someone’s got a crush!

—HAYLEY PHELAN

It’s always fascinating to go to various shows in the same location. If I hadn’t walked in the same entrance, I’d never have believed Coventry debuted their fall 09 collection in the same theatre as Rag & Bone.

Matthew Terry’s clothes might’ve been presented to a smaller audience but they were still a hit. He layered sheer lightweight knits under Ralph Lauren-y jackets. There was a beautifully stitched strapless tweed dress with an almost cable knit bust, tight pencil skirts, lace blouses and high-waisted knit pants - all in a neutral palette.

The clothes were grown up and sexy but the light cashmere knit made them look super comfortable. We’d even wear a couple of the men’s cardigans, which we should be able to do come fall if the smiling, nodding heads from buyers - especially Bendel’s and Odin - were any indication.

Meanwhile, we might’ve spent too much time contemplating the randomness of the front row which sat, in order, Leigh Lezark, Sam Endicott of The Bravery and Mrs. Pete Campbell from Mad Men. Because what, really, is the probability of any of them wearing this collection?

When we got to the Behnaz Sarafpour show at Exit Art at 2pm today, we thought it was strange that hardly anyone was there. Slowly, people started to trickle in, but even by 2:30, most of the seats were empty, and it looked like almost everyone had inexplicably blown off the show.

Which is kind of a shame - The clothes, though mostly somber and gray in keeping with the current mood, were invariably covetable, with a few choice little dresses we know everyone will want to wear to the Spring 2010 shows.

But the half-filled venue still bothered us all day. We know there’s a recession, but what was keeping everyone from getting up the West Side Highway? During the Narciso show (more on him later), Fashionologie pointed out that the Behnaz invitation actually said 2:30 (the official show schedule had her at 2pm, and we’re pretty sure that’s what everyone else only pays attention to, too) and so many people likely skipped to head over to Conventry (yes, more soon), thinking they wouldn’t have enough time between the two.

This could definitely be the case for some, though since Coventry was only ten blocks away, we wonder if it’s possible that 40% or so of the seated guests just didn’t come. Luckily for Behnaz, both Julie Gilhart and Meredith Melling-Burke (who ripped her name tag off her seat and stood by the door once she realized how late the show would start - guess she goes by the show schedule, too) were in attendance, and that’s probably all Behnaz needed anyway.

Alice Temperley’s been all over the place.

This time last year she had a bash of a runway show in the big tent; last season, a more intimate show in London and today a presentation and the above video present her Fall 09 collection.

Temperley according to Alice:

The mood — “Everything needed to be special. It’s really about key things with multiple uses, pieces that function, easier silhouettes. But I wanted to get tough, too. “

The inspiration — “We called the collection ‘Empress of the Orient.” It’s really inspired by Beardsley and Poiret. I want it to be a celebration of the clothes.”

The presentation — “I’m so relieved to not cast, not deal with the models or the politics of seating and all that. It’s just not the most creative way to show your collection. Everyone’s traveling, and so busy, you have the press, the buyers, the customers and now everyone can see it all at once. And see the clothes move and all know what’s happening at the same time in this really creative way.”

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

“The fame, the glamour, the people that love you. I don’t know, I like the people who love me a lot.” —Chanel Iman on Videofashion Daily right now, on the best parts of modeling.

We’re not exactly sure who Tony Cohen’s client is.

First we noticed a woman in a faux leopard beret with matching faux leopard vest atop a rainbow sparkly blouse posing for the photogs. Next, in walked a woman wearing a pink bustier, destroyed tie-dye flared jeans and a very Pam-Anderson hair do with matching lip job (among other things) and I thought, “I know this woman, where do I know her from?” Aha! Angelique from Rock of Love. Not only is she, well, even here at Fashion Week (can we mention again the pink bustier?) but she’s front row.

Other front row were the MisShapes, dressed as sleek and dark as always which seemed to be more on the mark for Tony. We could totally see Leigh rocking those leather pants or one of the short, black dresses. While the pants and jackets were kept very angular and tough (we sort of died over the leather jacket), they were perfectly countered by the soft draping of the dresses and tops. The dark plum color and the black and white veiny pattern were a nice break from all the blacks and grays we’ve been seeing so far.

And to pull it all together, the models were sporting straight hair, completely combed back on one side, sort of like a straight version of the Proenza Spring ‘09, which means that the Alice Dellal is here to stay.

—HAYLEY PHELAN

We settled into our seats at Sophie Theallet early this morning not knowing what to expect. The French transplant made a stir last season by casting all black models (she swears it wasn’t political) and while sipping our morning coffees we could already spot Hamish, Kate Lanphear and Grace Coddington getting ready to take notes.

The show began with folky, Native American-inspired garb that would have made Pocahontas swoon. But the footwear gave us pause - We’re not exactly sure what Sophie was going for, but each model walked the runway in UGG-looking winter boots, made by Sorel, as in, the company that makes those puffy snowboots I stopped wearing when I turned 13.

But after getting used to the giant furballs below, we really enjoyed the clothes. The dresses were extremely pretty - small floral prints, sheer chiffon overlays, gorgeous sunburnt orange and autumn leave colors with intricate detail such as a band of fringe along the arm, or piping detailing along the neck and chest.

The whole collection managed to channel the Native American look without going overboard. Actually, if Pocahontas were alive today (and living in Brooklyn) she probably would have bought everything in the collection. Well, except for the footwear that is.

—HAYLEY PHELAN

SPOTTED: The Lilly Pulitzer Jeep parked outside the tents, with a Connecticut license plate, naturally.

To: Tips@Fashionista.com

From: Girl@Anewmode.com

A fun tip: I was at Tracy Reese yesterday and a few minutes before the show started Andre Leon Tally was being escorted from the backstage area. But by that time, all the front row seats were filled in, and even though the PR people assured him they had a seat reserved, he refused to take it saying he didn’t want to kick anyone out of their seat and make a whole big thing about it.

They begged and pleaded with him (“No Andre, it isn’t anyone else’s seat, it’s YOUR seat, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE let us take you there!”). However, he absolutely refused to budge and insisted on watching the show from standing. They tried convincing him for another few minutes and he was like “Just start your show because I’m not moving anywhere.”

Then they implored: Do you need anything? Water? Coffee? Anything? But he was like “NO I’m fine!” Anyway, they eventually gave up and Andre watched the show with the commoners in the standing section. So who knows, maybe standing room will be the new front row!

And on that note, we saw Julie Gilhart and Meredith Melling-Burke in the standing section of Behnaz today, too. It was for an easier exit, but anyway.

Walking into Corpus’s presentation at the Bowery Hotel kind of felt like walking into one of the coolest nightclubs in New York: the booze was flowing, the models roamed free, and the clothes were exactly the kind of girly-meets-tough-chick look we usually lust over in these situations.

The models donned some very pretty dark floral dresses and blouses that were toughened up with thick knits, thigh highs and that “whatever” stance that makes the model-off-duty look work. The boys rocked slightly grunge, slightly rockabilly looks, while sipping drinks and mingling.

While the looks were feminine, Corpus’s roots in menswear shows through in the tailoring of the pants and jackets. The dark plaid suit we’re kind of obsessed with was seen on both male and female models which means that if you’re into the whole matchy-matchy thing you can pick up one for you and for your boyfriend.

We always love it when models are allowed to mix in with the party at a presentation and it was particularly fitting at Corpus. We even saw a few models timidly flirting with one another while guests stared at their clothes - so it was pretty much exactly like one of the coolest nightclubs in New York but with an actual reason to stare.

—HAYLEY PHELAN

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

If you’d told fourteen-year-old me that in ten years I’d be sitting across the aisle from JC Chasez, the editor-in-chief of French Vogue, American Vogue and Paris Hilton at Justin Timberlake’s fashion show in New York, I’d have thought you were mad.

When Carine magically appeared in the first row decked in pink Margiela fur, heads huddled, “Are we at the right show?…What is she doing here?”

Then suddenly Anna was there, with Bee, just four seats away, “Um, we must be at the wrong show. I just wanted to see what Jessica Biel looks like in person. William Rast doesn’t even advertise in Vogue! I’m so confused.”

But then, thankfully, JC Chasez and his bright blue sweater vest sat just one seat from Carine (awkward!) and I knew I was in the right tent. I also suddenly remembered the moves to my 1999 cheerleading dance to “Bye, Bye, Bye”.

Meanwhile, the Americana collection paraded down the runway. The clothes were inspired by movies like Thelma & Louise; they reminded me of Isabel Marant’s Spring collection, very Western with fringe, studs, beaded embroidery, feathers and patchwork denim. Even Justin managed to work in a bit of Balmain influence with shoulder pads inside his vintage-like t-shirts.

Alas, no Jessica Biel, but Carine and JT in the same room more than made up for it.

Update: Apparently, she was there. Oops, now you know just how big the tent is!

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

Walking to the Generra presentation at an event space on 26th street yesterday, we couldn’t help thinking that it felt more like Autumn than February. Of course, this only made us want all the warm, woolly, Fall pieces at Generra even more.

The clothes were exactly what you’d want to be wearing on a blustery October night - tons of layers, warm kni