To understand just how cool Jen Kao’s Fall 09 collection – only her third – is, you must first simply look at it: Ooh, this looks cool. But then it must be studied: Wow, amazing.
She explained to us this afternoon that she was inspired by the triangle and its place as, in her opinion, the strongest of the geometric shapes. If that sounds insane to you, consider the visual translation: Suede and denim triangular-paneled dresses, clingy tops made of jersey that somehow looks much stronger than a fabric best known for its easy draping, leather tops perforated with tiny triangles that look more like mesh but feel like a thick spider web, and triangular, metal sequins that lend the appearance of armor but with the quiet glitz of something you’d actually wear.
The collection, which was incredibly small for something that could suffice for a wardrobe – dresses, pants, shorts, leggings, hoodies, tops, they were all there – was complemented by jewelry from Eddie Borgo, who’s previously worked with Marchesa and Phillip Lim. Cosmically, Eddie was feeling the triangle for Fall 09, too, and his minimal yet high-impact designs around the girls’ necks and wrists really brought the idea full circle. Each girl looked kind of tough and strong, but not in an over-the-top neo-punk way, just enough so that you got the idea without any overkill.
Jen Kao is definitely someone to watch – and that’s the best possible final note for New York Fashion Week.