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How Much is Too Much?

rachelzoeprojectmystique.jpgIn this morning’s WWD writer Jacob Bernstein poses an interesting question about whether or not fashion’s intense global exposure takes away a bit of the mystique that made it so interesting for so long.

It’s certainly a valid point. But not one that I think that I can come down on one side or the other on. Certainly, part of what drew me into the world of fashion and magazines as a kid growing up in Indiana was the apparent exclusivity of the club. Well, that along with the beautiful people wearing the beautiful clothes in the beautiful photographs.

But these are different times. Obviously (and thankfully, considering how I earn my living) there’s the internet. But the article also cites reality television (Project Runway, The Rachel Zoe Project, ANTM), documentaries like Valentino: The Last Emperor and The September Issue, and even the photography of Terry Richardson and Juergen Teller as giving the world an actual look in on our little world. Kate Betts said, “Fashion used to be a much smaller and more insulated business,Then it became more of a global business and now it’s in many respects a part of the entertainment business.”

This is true. And it’s served many, many people’s businesses well. But again, how much can the “outside” world know about the inner workings of the industry before it becomes just another boring business? How much mystery do you think we need to hang onto? Or is it better to just see the Wizard?

Sometimes I wish I didn’t know all the things I knew about how this crazy fashion and magazine world worked, and could just be a wide-eyed admirer again. But I also hate being naive, so I’m also glad I do know that, say, celebrities get paid to sit at fashion shows or that most models who “win” reality shows really never work all that much, and every other more nitty-gritty piece of knowledge that falls in-between those broad topics.

But as marketer Steve Stoute told WWD Every time you unveil an industry, and use media to do it, people say, ‘The magic is gone. You’ve shown too much. But no one can crack the code for why Karl Lagerfeld has done what he’s done. You can show people where to buy the fabrics, you can show them how to sew, but magic only happens when there’s talent. Tom Ford is magic. Valentino is magic. Karl Lagerfeld is magic.”

What do you guys think? Do you want to know everything? And even if you, fashion-obsessed and often industry folks do, should the rest of the world too?

Comments

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posted by guest

Oct 12, 2009 11:21AM

elitism much? get over it.

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posted by shharvin

Oct 12, 2009 11:39AM

I don't know, it sort of annoys me that fashion is so accessible now. Girls from my high school who knew absolutely nothing about fashion at the time now want to work in it, because they think it would be fun to live like Whitney on the City or because they think it's a relatively easy and fun career. These girls not only make the job market even smaller, but also make my love of fashion as an ART seem shallow and materialistic. Gag me.

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posted by guest

Oct 12, 2009 11:40AM

Umm, yeah I want to know what's going on.

Part of fashion's exclusivity has led to less exposure of black, asian, latina/o, etc. models on the runway. That's definitely not a good thing.

And does anyone REALLY think that the magic of these designers are gone? Because if they truly are magical, no amount of media is going to take that away. Some people might not understand it, but it's still amazing.

I feel like some just want to be a part of fashion's Table Elitaire. And that's silly. Fashion should be shared by everyone who will appreciate.

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posted by guest

Oct 12, 2009 11:43AM

I don't think that's true shharvin. If you want to work in the business, you will already be more qualified than these girls because you know what it takes and you've taken the time to learn.

They might sound shallow, but people know the difference. You clearly are not.

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posted by guest

Oct 12, 2009 12:10PM

I don't think it's being elitist to question the loss of magic in fashion. Look what has happened to the music industry. There was such mystery around bands/artists like Led Zep, The Clash, David Bowie, Motley Crue, Oasis, etc. They were living a life that was so foreign and exciting and the music took on a life of it's own because of it. Now our music is bland and our "rock stars" even worse. We have people like poser Pete Wentz going on The Dog Whisperer show complaining that his dog won't stop pooping on the carpet and John Mayer babbling about traffic or whatever on twitter. Too much exposure can water things down- there is something to be said for a little mystery in things.

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posted by guest

Oct 12, 2009 12:44PM

fashion's magic now only appears sporadically in little moments (most recently at the end of the Alexander McQueen show.)

for me, even aside from blitzkrieg media exposure, it's overall appeal has been tarnished irrevocably by closet slave labor and the overwhelming sense of self-importance by people who--for some unexplainable reason--forgot the pure and genuine love of fashion that brought them to the city in the first place.

but I guess that's another topic entirely...

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posted by FierceObjection

Oct 12, 2009 1:22PM

Great piece Abby. I've actually thought about this very topic a lot. Working and living in this industry is such a privelage if its your true passion but when it becomes a sort of side show for all to watch, misinterpret and judge - it does lose a little bit of its luster. There are positives and negatives as with anything but when you are actually in the business it tends to feel like people are watching a cinematic version of your life - and everyone's a critic.
http://fierceobjection.wordpress.com

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posted by RashomonRebel

Oct 12, 2009 1:36PM

#5, I'm glad that you mentioned the 2 biggest douchebags in music today, Pete Wentz and John Mayer.

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posted by guest

Oct 12, 2009 1:58PM

With the accessibility through the ages growning we have to somewhat expect fashion to be exposed. Also, with celebrities always fashion, it's just beginning to unravel. I do though sense a bit of elitism, but that comes with technology and the curiosity that is ever booming fashion might be come a 'standard' business. However, the 'magic' comes with the designer and their clothes.

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posted by ferocious1

Oct 12, 2009 2:57PM

There's no such thing as too much?

On an economic perspective, what's wrong with making television/reality shows that expose the fashion industry?

Moree ways to get more customers, mo money!!!

dzuhh?

the only problem now is now magazines are disappearing, because we now have the internet. I am a victim.

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posted by g.o.

Oct 12, 2009 3:26PM


Reality is subjective. Especially in today's world.


I believe that the level of exposure fashion is receiving today is inevitable. There is too much money to be made from crappy shows. There is too many people waiting for their fifteen minutes of fame. Its a double edge sword, we might as well focus on the side that cuts in talent's favor.


Yes, so much of the so called "mystique" has faded. But what has really been unveiled? Does a couple of terrible "reality" tv shows and celebrities thinking they can design really count as part of fashion or are they just a testament to the downfall of American pop culture?


I dare any of these people to put themselves through Parsons Fashion and see if they come out alive, and still claiming to be all that.


Fashion has got to redefine itself and determine what truly falls in its domain and what doesn't. Designers have got to use the level of exposure already in place and use it as a vehicle to educate the consumers and point out what truly matters:


Art, cultural relevance, continual exploration of beauty, collective and individual expression, talent, skill, craft, vision and the perpetually inspired lifestyle.


I don't suggest another form of elitism. I'm simply imagining a world were the exposure and acceptance of genuine fashion and style leads to the exponential progress of this fascinating industry.

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posted by guest

Oct 12, 2009 3:46PM

This is such great point- there's sucha a constant debate about how accessible and exposed fashion is these days. On one hand, I like it: I'm only in high school, meaning that the style.com app on my iPhone is my absolute favorite thing during fashion week because I can sit in class, oohing and ahhing at Kate and Laura's Rodarte magic while pretending I'm listening. The problem I have with this though, is the fact that the media turns fashion into something commercial, making it seem as if it is easily available to everyone. The fact of the matter is, though, that none of the ANTM girls will ever have a chance of making it, and Christian Siriano is the only name you'll ever hear about again from Project Runway. These shows aren't fashion, because they are so marketable and appealing to the general public. So I guess all I can do is hope that by the time I'm ready to work in the industry true talent, like Karl Lagerfeld, isn't overshadowed by what most people want to see, because the bottom line is that fashion isn't for everyone.

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posted by fashionursta

Oct 12, 2009 6:17PM

I think that fashion has become more democratic now, but there is still the elitist factor, and no matter how accessible everything is, due to the internet and TV, you can't just "be" in that world if you want to. You must be accepted by the powers that be, be it a designer, a stylist, or a magazine editor. It's sort of like getting into Studio 54 back in the day (I got in twice). We can read the tweets of Joe Zee and Derek Blasberg, but we are still just outsiders looking in. So in my opinion, deep down, it hasn't changed that much. Ugly Betty is a fictional character. There's no one at Vogue that looks like that.

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posted by calvinshowblogspotdotcom

Oct 12, 2009 7:46PM

I want to know what's going on because fashion is an industry I want to work in. It would be damn stupid of me to only want to stay in the "Wide-eyed Admirer" box if I expect to land a job in the industry.

For the rest of the world, they take what they see at face value. My mom watched the last season of ANTM when Tayana [sp?] won and she was totally rooting for her. My mom now how no idea what the hell that girl is up to [neither do I but still]. She likes that show for entertainment value. There's a WHOLE other side to fashion she has no idea about and probably never will because it's not something she really cares too much about.

I think that's how it generally is. People who love fashion may watch these shows to get a kick, etc. but that doesn't mean just because it's out there, the magic from it has gone away.

PS: the magic is in what you make it...if that makes sense.

http://calvinshow.blogspot.com

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posted by guest

Oct 12, 2009 8:03PM

Firstly, I think Rachel Zoe's assistants are completely despicable. Secondly, her show seems to give people that are not utterly obsessed with fashion (who know their stylists, editors, make up artists, etc.) a false sense of knowing what is going on. (Same can be said with "The September Issue.") Zoe's show provides to the public a tiny insight to the life of a Hollywood/red-carpet stylist. Real style demi-gods, such as Panos Yiapanis or Emmanuelle Alt, remain to be discovered by the masses of Bravo watching suburbanites.

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posted by guest

Oct 12, 2009 8:06PM

But, hahaha, this blog gives the fashion world too much exposure. So, the writers of Fashinista are in a tough position: make a living and expose the fashion world or keep the mystery of fashion intact and have no income... curious.

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posted by guest

Oct 12, 2009 8:17PM

#16 !Totally! These girls are always caught in between of slamming The City, or siding with Zoe because the blog is such a 12 year old vessel too... Weird! poor things...

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posted by Jean Voltaire

Oct 12, 2009 8:51PM

Definately too much exposure. These days we all know what Anna is upto or what Carine is planning for next month's issue. It will get quite boring soon.

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posted by guest

Oct 13, 2009 5:22AM

Where can I read this full article from wwd without a subscription?

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posted by Kim

Oct 13, 2009 9:56AM

You fashion folks are a bit full of yourself. No one ever cared about your "mystic." We were just envious of your access to fine clothing.

Geez, it's not like you're brain surgeons.

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posted by Jean Voltaire

Oct 13, 2009 10:44AM

Kim you're just jealous you wannabe.

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posted by milaniluv

Oct 13, 2009 1:33PM

For a quick minute I thought hard about this issue - I've always been totally committed to fashion...and NO I don't work in the fashion industry. I do however spend just about every free moment looking at beautiful things, planning looks, and shopping - without global access to new trends, styles, and inspiration...fashion would be dull. In response to this issue...I feel that those who are great...will always be great...with our without the mass globalization of fashion. They will be imitated, and sometimes they will be outdone by those inspired by them. That's the way it goes. So get over it. And honestly, if you're great...it shouldn't bother you.

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posted by Amanda

Oct 13, 2009 5:44PM

I agree that the coverage of the fashion industry is at an all time high but to be be perfectly honest, I feel that it will create more opportunities for those wanting to make it.

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posted by guest

Oct 14, 2009 10:42AM

I must say I agree with #16.

You may not want more exposure...but you're writing a blog. If you feel it truly is a problem, then you must choose to blog or not to blog.

You may buy Vogue and go to Fashion Month, but you're still giving us, the people who don't get to be there and who may not buy these fashion magazines ( Personally, I do.) a chance to see the "magic." And maybe at the same time, contributing to why these magazines are having such a hard time.

Playing the Devil's Advocate, sorry.

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posted by guest

Oct 18, 2009 7:20PM

i live in a suburb in maryland and go to a community college, but i have friends in ny who work as stylists and contributing editors to major mags. i aspire to work in fashion and love laughing at The Zoe and having a giggle at the girls on the mtv reality shows. i hear the crazy stories from my friends so I kinda have a clue as to what goes on. but, lately i have really been questioning if my hard work is really even worth it just to make it in a business that wants to be seen as "exclusive". my bf is a jaded working artist and i'm starting to question the arts in general. i'm thinking about just getting into social work and actually making a difference in the world. i think i wanna be naive again and start taking antm at face value. i even stopped coming to fashionista during fashion month cuz the coverage was overwhelming. im not over fashion it literally courses thru my veins its just not my world as of right now but its nice to know i have options!!

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