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Sour Advertising

Monday, Jan 11, 2010 / 4:33 PM

celine ads outrage.jpgI missed this on Friday because I was on a plane for twenty-two hours, but WWD ran a blurb about bloggers stealing fashion ads.
A few houses including Celine and Balenciaga are up in arms over websites and blogs posting their SS10 ads before they debut in the major fashion magazines (while most labels flood our inboxes with press releases, images and behind the scenes footage of said campaigns).
In fact, they’re so distraught that Katie Grand was forced to publicly apologize for posting the ads on LOVE’s blog, “This was a genuine human error, made in enthusiasm, and it was certainly never our intention to upset anyone, in particular designers we hold in such high esteem.”


We post ads because they’re fun, because they’re pretty, because they’re exciting, and most importantly, because they serve as a bridge from the runway to the store. Most customers experience new fashion for the first time via print ads and aside from the most hardcore fashion lovers among us, no one buys a magazine solely for its ads. If brands think so, if WWD thinks so, they’re delusional.
But most importantly, throwing a fit over free advertising while paying thousands of dollars for an overlapping audience to see the same image in next month’s Elle is outrageous.
At the end of their story, WWD reveals the headless Celine models: Carmen Kass, Lisanne de Jong, Jacquelyn Jablonski and Valerija Kelava. We can’t imagine the tantrum Celine’s throwing now.


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Comments [16]

Don’t see the big deal except maybe magazines freaking out because they want more money. Times are changing. Seems as if magazines need to change their formula and learn from new media.

I totally get what you’re saying (advertising to the same audiences for free), but I guess part of the “paying thousands of dollars” is being the first to show the ads… I have posted ads on my blog for the same reasons that you listed. I’m curious as to whether it was the design house or the magazines that were the ones upset over the controversy (if that’s what you’d like to call it?). Personally, I think the whole thing is ridiculous — in the internet age, nothing is private and nothing remains a secret. At least not for long…
xx
neutraltuesday.blogspot.com

No adventures in copyright tag for this?
How is it outrageous that they want to control their advertising message, and build buzz before a high-profile release?
Although I actually think all the fuss is just a continuation of their shrewd marketing strategy to draw even more attention/free advertising to the brand.

I am most guilty of this but I’m not hurting anyone, I don’t post up-to-the-minute info like most bloggers because they want to be the first and I don’t generate any income from using any pictures. If they don’t want their new pictures to be everywhere, they should lock that shit down or not have it on the www at all.
I’m a poor writer but my visual sense is keen so I like to put up stuff that I’m interested in at this time in my life as a visual diary.
If anything, I think I’m a positive marketing tool for all the brands that I like.

I agree with no. 3. How is posting copyrighted material — which these adverts are, not to mention the numerous photo spreads and candids posted on this blog daily — on a COMMERCIAL website not a copyright violation??

As someone who works in PR for a major fashion brand, I can understand the anger houses feel when their ad images are leaked to the blogosphere. With no disrespect to great blogs like fashionista (!), the issue becomes one of control. Fashion houses usually pay models and photographers for the rights to high-profile ad campaign each season on a contract basis. Basically, they pay for the time that the ads will run in the press. Leaking the images earlier that te contractual start date could mean that their rights to the images will expire earlier than planned. Also, a lot of fashion houses give exclusivity to certain magazines to run the best or select images from the ad campaign before they pay other books to run the images so this becomes a problem for a house when it ends up in the hands of a blogger. Of course, I do agree with #4 that better efforts should be made to ensure that images aren’t leaked… And finally, I’m surprised by Katie Grand’s apology — if I’m not mistaken she styles the women’s Vuitton shows and should know that, even though she’s also the editor of LOVE, fashion houses have particular standards to uphold.

Most bloggers including you don’t have enough creativity to showcase it in ways other than just to post photos and write something sensational!There are a lot many people whom I know who buy magazines exclusively for the ads and editorials they run bacause they serve as good artistic inspiration for their creative work.So I guess using someone else’s images and justifying it isn’t nice!
As for the free advertising that you give, well your intentions aren’t entirely altruistic as well!

*feeling guilty*
Although I think I posted maybe a couple of days after…
http://layersandswathes.wordpress.com

If fashion houses have such an issue with their ads appearing on the websites of bloggers, maybe they need to keep their ads under wraps? Better yet it is FREE ADVERTISING. And who goes to fashion blogs? People who are obviously really into the industry. Not your typical millionaire’s wife hoping to see what she can purchase next month.
The blogs are not receiving any profit from posting the images anyway. If it’s about exclusivity then it’s getting old. Everything is so controlled – from the runway shows to the points of distribution. The world is not what it was 20, 10, 5 years ago. It’s constantly changing and the more technological advancements are made, the more everyone has to learn to adapt.

Is anyone else reminded of the incident that happened last year, when a certain designer (can’t remember who exactly) flipped out over some pictures that Susie Bubble took of herself while wearing one of their bodysuits? The whole affair seemed to end up rather dismally for the designer, after Style Bubble’s 4.4 gazillion readers got wind of it. They got what they wanted–the pictures have been removed from Susie’s blog–but they also generated an enormous amount of hate amongst her fan base.
It’s really quite maddening that brands and fashion houses have yet to figure something out; the people who read fashion blogs are also the ones that buy, or aspire to buy, their clothes. Alienate them and you alienate your customer. This is especially true for edgier brands like the one from the incident I mentioned above (the bodysuit in question was skin-tight, made of hot pink, neon blue, and chartreuse panels of spandex…and may or may not have had shoulder pads).
I’m actually skeptical that this all HASN’T been figured out. I’m with #2: it’s more likely that magazines are leaning on brands to complain. And really, if all the free online advertising is devaluing actual print ads, they do have reasonable cause for objection. But, even so, trying to control people’s online activity seems like an expensive, losing battle. Fashion publications have made real strides in the past year to integrate the internet into their functioning, but if magazines want to stay viable in their current form, they need to redefine their utility for readers. Instead of presenting themselves simply as purveyors of the latest flashes and fads in the pan, perhaps magazines should try appealing to a more emotional, nostalgic side of people, the one that used to read the newest Teen Vogue (or i-D, if they were precociously hip) in their room on Sunday, with chinky, girly music playing in the background. People these days don’t buy magazines for news, or even for editorials; that can all be gotten online. People buy magazines because of the feeling: holding the images in your hands, thumbing through the pages, taking everything in. Somehow, that’s lost when you’re sitting at a desk somewhere, staring at a computer screen.
If the real issue is that no one is buying magazines anymore, why not address that? Why not make peace with bloggers over the ad images and then use them and their influence to remind people why magazines are awesome? Use prominent figures like Susie Bubble and Tavi as spokespersons for an online campaign for print media (both already profess their love of mags fairly often). Put them in ads. Ask them to blog about their love for mags. They’d already be writing tons about being a part of the campaign. Something like that could have huge populist appeal, and could probably be done at a relatively low cost. Internet ads are much less expensive than those in print, and the buzz generated by the bloggers themselves would most likely be free, seeing as they’d be flattered and all.
Yeah…let’s do that!

Wow. Someone needs to take a new media class, and also understand where their target market is hanging out these days.
Marketers are doing everything they can to make their campaigns go viral – and these brands are upset?

Well said kelleyd!

This question is a little off topic but here goes…if someone purchases a fashion magazine do they, in effect, pay for the copyright of the images in the magazine they have purchased?
I’m an artist who draws inspiration from many fashion editorials and some advertising and have always wondered about this. Any thoughts?

kelleyd, that was the smartest thing I’ve read all day.

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