Whereas in past collections Koi Suwannagate focused on deconstruction, FW10 was all about the constructed form of a kimono.

Drawing inspiration from the square sleeves and classic obi belt, Koi created a collection of cashmere and cotton pieces with colorful embellishments. While cerebral in concept and design, some felt a little too “arts-and-crafts” for my liking.

However, the majority of the looks were chic, including draped skirts longer on the sides, cropped cashmere sweaters, and a black cashmere strapless dress with an obi inspired belt that was truly stunning. Thick headbands made from leftover fabric and adorned with giant knots were the perfect topper to the Japanese inspired collection; so cute I wish I had one to keep my ears warm outside.

But one look really rubbed me the wrong way, and it was emblematic of a general problem with the collection.

It was a cream cashmere sweater with kimono sleeves, paired perfectly over a white button-down, with casual black shorts. And it was so right. That is, until the I noticed “tiger print” detailing on the sweater’s front. The pattern over the cashmere looked like something you learn in knitting 101.

It’s really tough for me to say I disliked the collection, because 90% of it was truly perfect, but that unsettling 10% was just enough to turn me off.