Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs’ young label Cushnie et Ochs has certainly evolved. While the looks at yesterday’s show were still heavily body-con, it was refreshing to see separates thrown in with a very different and larger silhouette.

It was these boxier outerwear pieces that were most appealing, specifically a stone colored knit jacket with fur sleeves and a number of black wool coats. And black was the dominating color in the overall darkened palette.

Cushnie and Ochs experimented with texture—crinkling leather, perforating skirts and blouses and sending chunky knits down the runway. There was also a lot of mesh and see-thru patches of chiffon that helped to modernize and lighten the looks.

It was a good collection that would have been just as nice if shown as a presentation. Perhaps better, as it seemed that none of the models—save Shu Pei Qin—could walk in the thick wedge boots.