We may be loathe to embrace runway collections that never make it to stores, but last night’s Perry Ellis show at Bryant Park looked a little too off-the-rack. Goatskin trenches were a standout, but they mingled with merino and wool “blends” (read: acrylic and poly). And we definitely spotted some pleats.
Still, Perry Ellis International is an influential mass-market player. The company reported a strong fiscal third quarter at the end of 2009, surpassing profit expectations for 2010 despite year-over-year revenue loss. And Creative Director John Crocco is a beloved designer in industry circles. So there’s definitely takeaway here for AW10, much of it echoing what we’ve seen on smaller runways this week. Our thoughts:
1. Let it all hang out. This season is all about layers — as seen at Rag & Bone, Thom Browne and Richard Chai — but preferably ones that fall at graduated lengths. Consider this the greenlight for wearing tops that extend below your jacket hem.
2. Go green; woodsy colors are in. We saw this same color dominate at Carlos Campos’ presentation on Saturday. Let’s call it spruce. Darker than teal, and much more masculine. But definitely a fashion-fashion trend. Wear at your own risk.
3. Consider quilted outerwear. See you, puffer.
4. Embrace velvet (again). It’s been popping up everywhere in the women’s collections, too. And while some are vehemently opposed, it does make for a dapper, striking profile on the guys. Note: If you’re new to velvet, it’s safest to pull this off at night.
5. A leather jacket and V-neck sweater are essential. Bomber or trench, take your pick. Leather remains a steadfast presence in the collections. Pair it with a dark cashmere V-neck — no shirts underneath, please! — and you’re the embodiment of fall.