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Ask an Expert: Will Pieces from Cheap Designer Collaborations Be Worth Money Someday?
By Cheryl Wischhover
As I was spring cleaning my closet the other day, I relegated an old Thakoon for Target striped t-shirt to the “workout clothes” pile. Later that same week, though, I wore his three-year-old white Gap shirt to work.
The paradox got me thinking: Designer collaborations are more abundant than ever, but as the pieces age, do they become more precious, or less so?
Jean Paul Gaultier’s recent line for Target was bashed in the blogosphere for looking and feeling cheap. And Giles Deacon’s been designing for high street store New Look for a few years now, but my UK correspondents have assured me that his pieces are “just as crappy as the rest of the clothes in the store.” The other day I saw a girl wearing Sonia Rykiel for H&M and I thought, “God, that looks trashy.”
Sure, the latest round of discount collabs haven’t been great quality-wise, save for Liberty of London. But what about Karl Lagerfeld’s pieces for H&M? Or Proenza Schouler for Target? Will they ever be even remotely as valuable as a real Proenza, or a Fendi? Or maybe even a Chanel?
Cameron Silver, owner of world-famous vintage boutique Decades, thinks most lack that kind of potential. Certain collections, such as Viktor & Rolf’s for H&M (particularly the wedding dress) and the CFDA Gap collaborations seem more special. But they won’t “necessarily be family heirlooms in the future,” he says.
The lesson: If you want to try to sell your Rodarte for Target on eBay, you better do it now. Because it’s likely to depreciate in value.
Tags: Cameron Silver, Doo-ri Chung, Gap, H&M, Target, Thakoon
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i regret not purchasing the trench coat by viktor & rolf for h&m
I don't know, but I sure as hell am glad these collabs exist because everyone should have the right to afford designer pieces and I sure as hell can't afford much ACTUAL designer pieces these days.
20 years back if you didn't have money for cloths you'd be forced to wear whatever unflattering crap Sears or Kmart offered. Cloths may not save the world, but they do do something great for the mind.
I think there will always be some kind of reminiscent value to these pieces. Kind of like vintage rock t shirts.
i adore the stuff from proenza's target collab-wish i would have bought more. i don't buy these items to churn a profit…
Hmm I don't agree re: the quality of Giles for New Look. I have a skirt & a bracelet which were great from his Gold collection for New Look . But an investment for the future? Er, no.
I think in terms of investments, they may not seem like the best thing in the world compared to, say, an actual Chanel or Proenza, but I think your choice actually proves a good example. If the piece is wearable in quality and lasts in your wardrobe, why not stock up? If there's anything ridiculous about the whole process is that people are actually willing to pay so much more for designer discount collaborations than the actual price they could get in store on eBay. For that much you might as well save up for the real thing.
I found that clothes and shoe loss value once they are out of the store, worn or new with tag. As for longevity and hand me downs value, I'd prefer to inherit high end rather then collaboration clothing.
I must point out the the title “Cheap” instead of “Affordable” already shows how bias this article is.
Yes, realistically ANYTHING that is more available to the average person isn't going to hold much value. To most people the designer collaboration pieces last just as long as the clothes they can afford normally. Therefore I see nothing wrong with paying an extra $5-$10 to support your favorite designer; instead of paying less for a knock-off of the designer's higher end piece at Forever21.
Really fashionista?
Wouldn't you rather have your readers support the designers instead of buying knock-offs at Forever21, H&M, or etc. Its obvious that the designer collaborations are cheaper version of their high end stuff. Its even more obvious their average fashion loving fans will never be able to buy any of their creations.
Designers' collaboration with H&M are better than Target's… And some pieces are worth to keep; the rest go to workout pile, like yours…
Erm…commenter one – no one has a right to designer clothes. We all should have access to clean water, decent healthcare, etc…but not designer clothes. That's a luxury. Indeed, for many people an excess of high street clothes is a luxury.
Having said that – I wouldn't touch these designer collaborations with a barge pole. Steer clear of all cheap clothes, buy less and invest in fewer better quality pieces.
Everyone “should have the right to afford designer pieces”? Um, no, sorry.
Why does this place occasionally do these ridiculous elitist posts.
To all the young girls out there please note: Buying clothes is not an investment. Your return, though emotional, will hardly be financial. Unless, of course, it's some couture piece or ridiculously priced Hermes bag. And before someone mentions the obvious, that the term investment does not only relate to finance, I personally feel that when you have to expend money and the term 'investment' is used it implies and connotes a type of financial return.
I always find it silly and funny when fashion types try to perpetuate this idea of buying clothes being an investment. Investment in what? Your closet? LOL “invest in the seasons MUST HAVE….”
I think it's such a smart move for some of these little lesser known designers to collaborate with these behemoths. They can reach bigger audiences, and hopefully, that aspirational customer who will be turned on to them and buy something — be it a fragrance, accessory, or even garment!
Oh, and I could only imagine what type of contracts and deals they have! And who absorbs what kind of costs! (The massive marketing machines/budgets these big stores have IS incredible).
I'm curious, how some of these designers fare after the collaborations? That would, perhaps be a more fascinating piece…
I used to do that but financial times have set my wardrobe budget back. If I want to buy more than 3 things a season it doesn't make sense at these financial times. However that is my own personal choice.
Perhaps I should say this a bit different. Designer cloths are an absolute luxury and make me personally feel fantastic when I'm decked to the nines. Everyone should have the right to dress nicely and feel good the same way opposed to being limited to the bargain basement.
I believe elitest attitudes feed into the class systems that hold everyone back in life.
What “formerlyknownasguest” said. Especially the second to last sentence.
Hi, it's Cheryl W here—I wrote this piece. Cameron actually pointed out that several of the designers who collaborated w/Target aren't even in business anymore. So it's questionable sometimes how beneficial these deals are for the designer, especially smaller ones. This piece wasn't intended to imply that since these clothes aren't good investments that they're “bad.” I frequently buy things from these designer collaborations, but the quality varies a lot. I guess my point is—if you love the piece, get it, just don't expect it to last. And I loved the point that a few of you made about buying from lower-end designer lines as opposed to blatant rip-offs from Forever 21 et al.
I don't really think that clothes appreciates in value. Unlike jewelry, they actually depreciates.
I wouldn't like to wear the same old dress even if its a designer one simply because I may already have a picture wearing it somewhere. What I do is to mix and match!
Uh no, 20 years back there were still local stores or non-crappy chains to buy clothing at. Ever heard of a mall? Or some people even made their own! Where are you getting this crazy information?
Not all, but a lot of “luxury” items are expensive because they are hand made, or made from rare materials, etc. Not every designer/luxury item is costly just because it's a label. You can't get a pair of hand made custom shoes for cheap because the work that goes in to them is worth money. It's insane to me that people like you can't comprehend that.
Also, it's CLOTHES.
Its insane to me that you lack manners, and that you don't have the courage to register as a user and put a face to your opinion. 20 years back I remember the malls selling crap and not having the money to shop at decent stores,let alone a sewing machine and lessons how to use it. Which is why I grew and went to Parson's School of Design. To create beautiful pieces someday at all different costs for all types.
All I'm getting from your post is-”No not all deserve to look better” (How kind of you)
As for the remark you ended your complaint “Also, it's CLOTHES.” Well this is Fashionista.com thats what this site is HERE for.
And if you are going to go forth and make some accusations that this industry isn't charitable visit here: http://www.openingceremony.us/entry.asp?pid=629
The definition of cheap is inexpensive/worth more than it costs. The cache of the word has been attached naturally because of what sort of items are priced on the cheap.
I have to agree that a collaborative fashion item will not be as valuable as a piece from a designer's collection however I do believe that many pieces will prove to be wise investments. . A good example is the Stephen Sprouse collection for Target, one of the very first collaborations, which I truly believe will have value in the future.
Sonia Rykiel's colllab with H&M was terrible. I picked up a bangle that was heavier than the platform shoes. Do not want.
http://www.speakfemme.blogspot.com