News, Rants, The Business
Explain: Dressbarn’s Unbelievable Success
By Lauren Sherman Wednesday, Mar 3, 2010 / 12:05 PM
One of retail’s biggest recession successes has been Dressbarn, which recently reported second quarter sales of $594.1 million, a whopping 73% increase from 2009.
A big reason Dressbarn has done well as of late: Its acquisition of a company called Tween Brands, which includes Justice–a less-slutty version of Rave, a popular mall store when I was a tween–and Limited Too, originally an offshoot of The Limited.
But Dressbarn itself–which is known for drab work wear in misses and plus sizes–is also doing very well. Second quarter sales for the store increased by 7% to $209.3 million. And sales in stores that have been opened for at least one year–called comparable store sales in retail speak–increased by 6%. An increase in comparable store sales is a mark of true success for a retailer.
Yet I’m mystified. How can this be? How can such a crappy store continue to make money?
Before this discussion becomes a debate over fashion snobbery, I’d like to say: I get it. I get that Dressbarn isn’t a store for the fashion-obsessed, I get that not everyone in America wants to wear mint green and bondage heels and I get that H&M doesn’t suit most 60-year-old women.
But look at the options. There’s Gap. There’s Target. Heck, there’s LL Bean and Land’s End. Why are people drawn to a place that sells drab, unflattering apparel? This season, Dressbarn’s theme seems to be flared jeans and hippie shirts. While this look can work on certain women, it’s definitely not universally flattering, especially in such boring color ways like the trumpet sleeve shirt shown. It can’t be because of the price–the aforementioned stores all score well in that area.
This isn’t a matter of fashion. It’s a matter of style. Most women want to look presentable and stylish, no matter how much or little interest they have in the runway. So why are they traveling to Dressbarn, of all places, to achieve that?
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Dress Barn sells KMart-caliber clothes to women who would like to be spared the indignity of having to buy their clothes at the same place they buy toilet paper and batteries. That seems like a perfectly legitimate niche to me.
I have never set foot in DressBarn before – it was always ” 50 year old admin assistant clothes” in my mind – but I stopped by last week and was pleasantly surprised – they became a lot more stylish than I remember. A lot of dresses had style very similar to BCBG. Work clothes were still pretty bad though. Oh, and Walmart, great clothes – you got to be kidding? Apart from Norma Kamali there is nothing. Some Target clothes are OK, but most of their GO designer stuff (with some exceptions) is just awful quality – I would compare it to Halloween costume level of craftsmanship. Fabrics are super-cheap, stitching sucks and fit is non-excising. Few places beat H&M for prices and style but then again – not everyone has access
What about access? I'm no expert, but it seems to me that DressBarns pop up in somewhat more economically-depressed areas much more quickly and frequently than does a Gap, a Target, or an H&M.
I had a woman come to my job and pass out coupons for Dressbarn. Maybe that's evidence of a peer to peer marketing campaign that gets women into the store with a promise of a good discount?
And you seem to forget that most women out there are plus-sized, ESPECIALLY those who aren't interested in fashion. If they want to shop for workwear IRL where do they go? Not H&M or Gap or Target (I actually just checked and most of Target's plus-size work clothes are online only).
Lane Bryant is the only store that comes to mind other than Dressbarn.
the same reason any business succeeds, they know their core customer and continue to cater to her. i looked at the stuff on their website, not my taste, but not all of it's horrible either.
while there's probably some overlap with target, i can definitely see why their customer isn't shopping @ the gap, l.l. bean, or land's end
Economically depressed areas definitely have Gap and they definitely have Target. And they most definitely have Wal-Mart, which has some amazing clothes.
Why did you publish this? This piece smacks of snottiness and elitism. Obviously the reasons stated above (Location, Size, Choice, Price), Dressbarn is a popular choice for some women. You can't put someone who shops at H&M and Dressbarn in the same category just becuase the price structures are similar.
The peer-to-peer marketing thing is interesting, but in terms of plus-size clothing, I'm not so sure. The average American woman is a size 14, which may be considered plus size in fashion, but is totally just a regular size in retail. As I said above, Wal-Mart has some great clothes, as does Old Navy. And they most definitely have plus-sizes available.
actually part of dress barn's strategy is to target economically depressed areas, but in a way that's different from gap (which is in the mall) and targets & wal-marts. iirc part of what they do is open in strip malls (i.e. you'll have a supermarket, and then some random assortment of retail stores) which are right off the highway. so essentially the customer can easily pop in & out of the store, something you really can't do with a wal mart or target.
“Economically depressed areas definitely have Gap and they definitely have Target. ” Really? what universe do you live in? I live in an “economically depressed” area (West Oakland, CA) and there are no Targets within city limits.
You're right–Old Navy, which is probably a better equivalent price-wise to Dressbarn–is usually also in strip malls. So are places like TJ Maxx and Marshalls. But really, why–when you have such great alternatives–would you shop at Dressbarn? That's what I'm curious about.
Oakland doesn't have Target but it does have Hyphy, which is exponentially more important.
good point about old navy. i forgot about them. however i can still see why certain customers would prefer dress barn to old navy. the merchandising at old navy tends to really focus on the basics & stocking deep assortments. plus i think their overall aesthetic is a bit more casual.
dress barn is a bit more…how to put it, b/c it's not quite fashion…it's more exuberant and/or fancy. their stuff has more embellishments and seems to be more all occasion. like you could go there and get a dress for a wedding or a special event. which you can't at old navy.
i think that this piece is coming off as more insulting than informative. the majority of women that shop at dressbarn also shop at tj maxx, walmart and sears.
you keep mentioning that walmart has amazing clothing, have you been to walmart and seen their clothing? it's crap and badly manufactured.
dressbarn caters to the woman that doesn't shop at H&M because there isn't one in their city and their clothing doesn't fit. (i live in miami, fl and the closest H&M is in ATLANTA!)
i think that because you're in NYC you forget that a lot of women aren't often looking for fashion, but rather affortable clothing that makes them believe they're fashionable.
I've never heard of dressbarn before. This is bizarre that they are doing so well.
My mother-in-law ALWAYS, suggest that I take a look at Dressbarn, I swear my gag reflex goes into overdrive when she mentions that store. She feels that since I work in a professional environment, that Dressbarn offers the best options in her opinion. Any store with the name “barn” in it, does not deserve any further conversation :)
My mother-in-law ALWAYS, suggest that I take a look at Dressbarn, I swear my gag reflex goes into overdrive when she mentions that store. She feels that since I work in a professional environment, that Dressbarn offers the best options in her opinion. Any store with the name “barn” in it, does not deserve any further conversation :)
A friend of mine bought a dress for a bridal shower at dress barn, it was printed cotton, decent looking. I was looking thru the Macy's dress department and the same exact dress was sold there. I kind of thought that was interesting. Kind of similar places? I'm not sure. I've never been to dress barn and usually just look at Macy's when I'm at the mall. I guess what i'm assuming is that it is similar to mid range department store offerings but maybe with better deals/coupons?
“Most women want to look presentable and stylish, no matter how much or little interest they have in the runway.”
Key words in your statement presentable and stylish. Looking presentable is easy enough and can be achieved at almost all retail stores via black pants and a white shirt. Now stylish, that is a relative concept! Many people feel that what they are purchasing is stylish regardless if it is ill fitting, poorly made, or where it is purchased. And for those that understand what they are purchasing is not stylish, they simply do not invest the time to find out what would be stylish for their age and function.
Lauren and others mentioned several moderately priced stores that are stylish alternatives to Dressbarn, however many people assume a store is more expensive than it really is and focus on what they know. I've heard from several people “Gap is expensive…$50 for denim.” When they can get things on sale or via coupons etc… To me its all about conditioning and what you are used to.
Finally, some people simply do not care enough to shop around. I know I don't buy all my clothes from one store but I know several people that do. Most of my joy comes from actually shopping for the right item. For some women the simply don't care and Dressbarn is good enough.
Why are you so concerned with why people shop there? People can shop wherever they would like. And I'm stating the obvious here, but what is “fashionable” and in-taste varies from region to region, even town to town, and from age group to age group.
This is definitely an example of fashion snobbery. Don't get me wrong, I love shopping and easily plop down $200 for a pair of jeans, but I don't judge those who shop elsewhere or just don't care about fashion. I think that is what a lot of the writers in here get caught up on, they can't possibly fathom the idea that someone, somewhere doesn't care about fashion.
TJMaxx and Dressbarn aren't in the same category. I've seen some amazing stuff (from SS '10) from Missoni, Alice and Olivia, DvF, Nanette Lepore and others at TJMaxx this weekend. It might be a matter of location, but I was in fashion heaven.
The success is actually believable Lauren!
Look at all your high-end designers either closing up shop or doing fast fashion to make a small niche of people who can and can't afford their pieces. Then you have places like the GAP who also play the fast fashion, Vogue Fashion Fund game for middle consumers who no longer shop the Gap at regular prices because they wait for the $2.99 sales, 6 weeks later.
The recession has caused many people to shift to the basics and if Dress Barn is it, then more power to them. This is why they make money and this also why high-end designers can't post a profit. No one can afford couture but you can buy one-thousand and one items from a place like Dress Barn.
Additionally, Are you guys running out of inventive posts while to fast track your way through Fashion Week with your “Standing By” passes?
I'm actually not too interested in the Dressbarn debate, but I am really upset to see the word “slutty” used on one of my favorite websites. You should read this book, Lauren:
http://www.readinggroupguides.com/guides3/slut1…
I agree completely, Molly. This “article” is crap. While, Dress Barn is not my thing at all…. how UGLY of the “writer” to be so judgmental about those who do shop there. OBVIOUSLY the store is doing well because women enjoy shopping there. Maybe because it's free from the snobby, intimidating “fashion” world. A LOT of women are really afraid of fashion.
This SO feels like middle school. I remember being ridiculed by the “it girls” for wearing off-brand Keds. WTH?
Yes but Old Navy is WAY too young for the average Dress Barn customer.
Really? My mom is 55 and my aunt is 58 and they both regularly shop at Old Navy. And they DEFINITELY don't shop at dress barn.
This debate is a good one. One other issue I'd like to add to the debate is age. Not everyone is in their 20s. At some point, you have to graduate from the Gaps, the Old Navys and even sections of the Targets of this world and try to find something more age appropriate. Even if you prefer to dress younger or trendier, sometimes you don't have a choice because your body type shifts and expands as you age and those younger styles may no longer fit correctly. Once you reach that point, there are sadly, fewer options. And some of those options skewed a bit on the pricier side. So for some, Dress Barn is her only option.
I've been reading this website for a little while now and (as a fashion student), I think that it's an excellent resource to grab a lot of fashion-related information (subjective – but what delivery medium isn't?), but have never posted a comment on here until now. I just felt compelled to comment on this topic.
As someone who absolutely LOVES clothes (the true fashion portion of it – art, innovation, wit, humor, creativity, etc…), I must admit that I sometimes find myself wondering how and why someone could completely eschew fashion – despite that I grew up on the south side of Chicago in the hood, where a lot of people don't care about fashion at all. However, I realize that just because it's one of my passions doesn't mean that it holds the same allure for everyone else. My mother, for example, is one of the most brilliant and intelligent women that I know (and I'm not being biased because she's my mother – she's studied for YEARS and is truly a smart, well-educated woman), but she couldn't care less about what she wears. That isn't to say that she's sloppy or doesn't care about her appearance. Quite the contrary – she is always impeccably groomed, hair and nails clean, beautiful and styled, and clothes clean, pressed, and well-tailored. However, she will shop at Wal-mart for a garment just as quickly as she would for basic household toiletries. She very rarely shops at a store like Macy's or Von Maur, or even the Gap, preferring to stick to stores like JC Penny's, Kohl's, Target, etc.
The point that I'm making is that there are many women out there like my mother who don't place any value on fashion, whatsoever, and still turn out impeccable daily style without being very fashion-forward. Although, personally, I would probably never even set foor in a DressBarn (save for being with a friend who wanted to go there – but none of my friends would shop there either), much less purchase an outfit from there, I can completely understand why some women would and do shop at a place like that. Certain things are simply not important to some people.
Having said all of that, I can certainly also understand Lauren's posting of this article. There's a curiosity there. I hold the same curious stance. What is it that causes some people to just disregard something that is such a large part of our lives? We all wear clothes everyday – they're mandatory in most parts of society. Why not put the most into something that you're going to have on display everyday? Which leads me to wonder why someone would choose DressBarn over Dior (well, perhaps that's a huge stretch, but the point remains….)
Again, as a young African American boy (albiet gay, which is, perhaps, where my innate sense of fashion and style comes from) growing up in the hood on the south side of Chicago, one would typically not expect me to be drawn, fashion-wise (or culturally, for that matter), to the things that I'm attracted to. It would probably be expected of me to like typical “hood”, urban fashions, however, I don't. Certainly, my upbringing has instilled a certain urban/street style instinct in me, but it typically leans toward the higher end of urban-styled fashion, such as Nicholas Ghesquiere's S/S '10 collection for Balenciaga, etc.
But I think that some people here are being a bit harsh. Yes, everyone is entitled to their own opinion and certainly to the way that they desire to dress, but why can't the question WHY some people choose to shop where they do be asked? Is it fashion snobbery? Could be. But it could also just be open, honest curiosity. Sometimes when we are fans of something (a favorite music artist or movie, for example), we find ourselves wondering why everyone else isn't into the same thing that we are.
Apologies for my post being all over the place and so many tangents, but I'm in a rush to make it to a movie screening and I haven't the time to organize my thoughts as concisely as I'd like to at the moment.
Gotta run, but hopefully my next post will be a little more pulled together. TTYL!!!
Every time we are out in the burbs (we live in Manhattan), and we pass a Dress Barn, my husband always says “what woman would want to buy her clothes from a BARN?”. Sort of insinuating that the person who does shop there is a “cow”, no?
I like this post. I generally check here for the more newsy stories but when I see something like this or the Bennetton post, I am amused because I often wonder the same things. Someone on my Facebook just became a fan of Ross Dress for Less and I was dumbfounded. It is NOT snobby to be skeptical of these stores… just curiosity about why you wouldn't spend the same $$ at Loehmanns or TJ Maxx and get something of better quality. I agree with the above poster that some people think the mall is very expensive (including GAP) and this is a way of having a retail experience without feeling completely ripped off. It is baffling. Talk about opting out completely and draping yourself in polyester:)
I really appreciate you posted this – I've needed that final straw to stop reading this site. I hope some day you find the answer to “why doesn't everyone live in New York City and spend $1000 a month on clothes and obsess on how closely they resemble an editorial in Numero” somewhere out there.
Lauren, for someone who claims to specialize in the business side of fashion, I would expect more business understanding from you. Yet all you seem to do is report sales figures supplemented by your insular opinions instead of insightful analysis. Using words like “slutty” doesn't help either.
And you wonder why bloggers don't get the same respect as traditional journalists do.
I have had enough with the judgmental attitude of this site. Fashionista used to be a source of light entertainment for me, but I find myself increasingly frustrated or at least annoyed every few days either with the articles or catty comments. I'm joining the previous commenter in saying goodbye.
Ps. Dressbarn does a great job catering to their target market who live in a very different world than you do.
the south side is not that bad, you have the museum, Hyde Park, and University of Chicago
Target does not have great clothing. Quality is poor, color palettes are abysmal. Blouses are paper-thin. I get my jeans there; that's it. I have better luck at Marshalls/TJMaxx/AJWright.
If women are happy shopping here without realising the “unfashionableness” of it all, they may well be the type who might feel intimdated shopping at a regular “fashionable” department store. They may also feel overwhelmed by a dept stores choices and they feel like Dress Barn caters to them without making them feel inferior. I'm not saying that happens in dept stores, I'm saying that is what these shoppers might project.
Seriously? Have you ever been to Chicago? I had a friend that was thinking of quitting her doctoral program at the University of Chicago because she felt so unsafe living in Hyde Park.
My way is to shopping at different shopping sites. This gives me an opportunity to compare the best apparels from Gap, Walmart and Target. Try sites like Google products or even others like Onewayshopping.com and you'll be glad you took that chance.
Yes, I lived in Chicago for 3 years and your friend is an idiot for quitting a doctoral program at one of most Nobel Prize winning institution in the world.
Tell her to contact me and I will send her a knife, some mace and free self defense lessons.
Peter? Where the fuck have you been?
There is a DressBarn on a major street in my city (Washington DC) right downtown, and there are not really any other clothing stores nearby…except about 2 blocks away where there are some upscale stores like Burberry. Every time I walk past that Dress Barn I say to myself “what woman looks in this window and says ‘wow that’s cute’ while she’s on her lunch break from her lobbying firm?” I can’t figure out the demographic they are reaching out for in that location, because it is by no means an economically depressed area. Its a business district with upscale shopping nearby. I then imagine if I worked in one of the office buildings on that block and OOPS- I spill something really awful all over my favorite 3.1 Phillip Lim white blouse. Maybe, just maybe, if I am broke, pressed for time, and have an important meeting later, I would run into DressBarn and grab the first semi-OK looking basic shirt I see and then never wear it again. Most likely I wouldn’t even do that, but it seems like the only possible reason why I would go in that store. That is just my opinion, because I care about fashion.
There are many women over size 14. Where do they shop? What comes to mind is Dress Barn or possibly Fashion Bug. What other options are there?
I design and own a fashion accessories business and when I have time I like to read the comments just to see what folks like yourself have to say about pro's and con's of everything / situation. I am enjoying the heck out of all the comments and I don't see the article as snobbery at all. It is just a healthy curiosity at the “fashion” or “non-fashion” world as in the case of dress barn. I am actually learning a lot from the comments of the people here that bother to discuss productively rather than petulantly. If you don't like the article, then just move on. Let others discuss so that people like myself that wants to learn what makes folks tick in different demographics actually hear other people out. So just move on – its not like you have to address every article. This is my first time writing in.
Hey there fashion student…
I enjoy this article as well. People in the fashion biz have a totally different curiosity than most of the folks here. I like your long take on this article.
Contact me if you want a free lance job… christineicn@hotmail.com
Here's why Dress Barn is a success: Many, many women work in offices where boring, conventional clothes are required. Fashion is considered “unprofessional” in their workplaces. And since buying dull work clothes gives no one any joy, women go to the cheapest place to get their required beige polyester suits, etc.
There is no Dress barn on teh south side of Chicago, neither is the Gap nor Old Navy. Simply Fashion, Rainbow, etc are the closest things to what we have.
Daughter, journalist, living in Kenwood/Hyde Park-safer than previous apt. 1 block from the Coach store on Michigan Ave. Just because residents are Af-Am doesn't mean it is not safe! AND—-the one time I entered DressBarn-my mother-in-law from overseas needed clothing gifts for women in the family. She had a fine time! Never had she seen such cheap clothing! The sale and clearance items were incredible. Their clothing was unappealing to me, but she was able to get a ton of clothes for a couple hundred dollars (of course slight weight problems later at the airport!). There were sweaters, denim skirts, sequined tops, etc. The clothing is loose, and generously sized. I can see that for some women, they offer 'safe' styles, good prices, and outfits that mix and match. They probably shop elsewhere also. Old Navy is next door.
I have never set foot in DressBarn before – it was always ” 50 year old admin assistant clothes” in my mind – but I stopped by last week and was pleasantly surprised – they became a lot more stylish than I remember. A lot of dresses had style very similar to BCBG. Work clothes were still pretty bad though. Oh, and Walmart, great clothes – you got to be kidding? Apart from Norma Kamali there is nothing. Some Target clothes are OK, but most of their GO designer stuff (with some exceptions) is just awful quality – I would compare it to Halloween costume level of craftsmanship. Fabrics are super-cheap, stitching sucks and fit is non-excising. Few places beat H&M for prices and style but then again – not everyone has access