Recently, there’s been lots of talk regarding the legality of unpaid internships. The New York Times, for instance, ran a story over the weekend about how labor officials in several states believe that most unpaid interns should be paid minimum wage. Patricia Smith, the federal Labor Department’s top official, has said that she and staff are planning to enforce labor laws on a national level.

What does this exactly mean for the fashion? Our industry, and most creative industries, rely on unpaid interns to make things happened. If we didn’t have unpaid assistants working on set, or in the office, magazines wouldn’t get published, film wouldn’t get developed, and fashion shows wouldn’t run so smoothly.

I know that, during my time in college, I did four internships, one of which I was paid a commission on sales that I closed. (It was at a boutique/art gallery.) However, the other three internships, which were in editorial, were unpaid. One landed me my first job out of college. Britt’s senior year internship also resulted in a job right out of school.

The good news: According to our better-educated colleagues at Above the Law, interns who are unpaid but receive college credit are fine. As are interns who are being mentored and educated by their superiors. The bad news: 18-hour days working on a shoot or a day spent cleaning the office–for free–is going to be harder for an employer to defend. That is, if labor officials do indeed question the company’s practices.

Thomas Onorato, a partner at New York public relations and events firm OW!, says that he sympathizes with both sides of the debate. “People mismanage their interns and turn them into personal assistants or a messenger service,” says Onorato. “Our small PR and event business would not run without the help of our amazing interns (which are very hard to find by the way!).”

On the other hand, he also worries that companies who can’t afford to pay interns minimum wage will become less effective, and that the lack of internships will leave many who aspire to break into the industry unprepared, not to mention deflated.

“I personally would not be where I am without the two amazing internships I had while in college. Yes, I got a lot of coffee and ran errands but I also watched and learned so much,” he says. “Many successful people in our industry started this way and it’s ridiculous to think these great opportunities for young professionals would all of a sudden go away.”

Whether you’ve been an intern, you are an intern, or you want to be an intern, what do you think?

Should everyone be paid something, or are unpaid internships simply a part of getting your foot in the door?


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Comments [76]

Being able to work an unpaid internship is a luxury that many young people cannot afford, which puts them at an unfair advantage when they're trying to break into certain industries. Even giving college credit for internships puts a certain demographic at a disadvantage, especially in a creative industry such as fashion where people do not do not necessarily need to come from an education background.

What's also ridiculous is that some labor laws, such as overtime, do not apply to interns. I have many friends who were working 60-80 hours a week unpaid as interns. This sometimes happens in industries as lucrative as investment banking, that can obviously afford to pay interns a measly minimum wage if top executives are making salaries in the millions. I'm really glad the labor department is cracking down on this. Young people with no work experience have been exploited by the system for quite some time now.

I had several internships in NYC non of which paid. I do not come from a family that could have supported me while I lived in NYC and worked for free. I kept a waitressing job at nights. What ended up feeling unfair about the situation was that other interns who had financial help surpassed me in my jobs, because at the end of the day I could not stay and work late, I had to get to Brooklyn to start dinner service. I ended up looking like the intern who wouldn't give extra.

Not only today is there a rising issue with so-called “Unpaid Internships” but light should also be shed on a new phenomenon that is that of the “Eternal Internship”…

Many of us, part of the summer 2008 and 2009 graduating classes were unfortunately incredibly hard-hit by the smack of the recession and the rise in unemployment…

Eager to gain experience and hopeful to one day find jobs, we thus, entered an endless cycle of “Eternal Internships”…one after another in hopes of finally reaching “Eternal Employment”…

It seems as though there is finaly a little light at the end of the tunnel, but times have been tough and the “Eternal Intern” phenomemon is not one to be ignored (often coupled with the 'unpaid' phenomenon – double whamy!).

If you want to check our story out (my story as well as that of two friends), please check us out at : http://www.the-eternal-intern.blogspot.com.

We span 2 continents, 3 different cities, 3 different industries…and yet we are still restricted by this Eternal Intern phenomenon…

Flora

http://www.the-eternal-intern.blogspot.com

Yeah, they started as unpaid interns… and does anyone else remember the wealth parade called Laguna Beach? I think it's safe to say these ladies (at least Lauren) had other means to support themselves, and kind of underline the point that unpaid internships favor the already-rich.

The other point, however, is extremely valid in my opinion. If you're not paying your interns, then you definitely shouldn't be expecting them to be tied to their blackberries or the last people to leave the office. I'll do the grunt work in exchange for an education, but please don't try to act like it's necessary to have me there ALL THE TIME– if it were, you'd be paying me. End of story.

The Eternal Intern is the story of my life….

I feel like a lot of the people commenting here, though they have interned, have clearly not interned recently. “I interned and now I'm an editor at that magazine”, “I interned and they gave me my first job” etc. That just isn't happening anymore. Few internships result in job offers now, and from what I've seen fewer and fewer employers even attempt to cultivate the skills of their interns. Sometimes vague promises of a future interview upon graduation will be put forth, but really, getting hired from an internship almost never happens.

As for college credit, I don't think the better institutions are very keen on that. I just graduated from Columbia, where no credit was ever given for internships, but the advising office will give you a note for your employer saying that you get credit–in short, the university lies for you, because they are aware that interning is not the same as taking a college class.

The increase in the last few years of unpaid internships is really ridiculous. Experience is definitely valuable, but college students are at their wits' end trying to fit them in with school and the other job they probably have to support themselves. Interns who are paid are much more likely to be focused at their jobs, less distracted by stress and the pressures of trying to keep it together when you're spending 20 hours a week answering email, getting coffee and going to the post office. More importantly, the intern will feel more respected, and less like a disposable nobody who shows up in the office for three months whose name few people bother to learn.

I've been an unpaid intern working as a journalist in a newsroom for 16 months now and as much as I've learnt alot, I've had to almost kill myself by taking on 2 other part time evening jobs to subsidise my income. There should be a fixed time period for unpaid work and if the employer does not wish to hire you after this grace period at least you've learnt alot and maybe made some other excellant contacts. I think it's unfair that employers (mine included) have kept me hanging on with the possibility of paid work becoming available when it seems they are just keeping me as they know how important it is to me.

Last summer I worked as an intern for a Ready-to-Wear designer. I was lucky to get this internship by knowing someone who knew someone, but I was right out of high school and had no design experience. There were times when they over looked that detail and allowed me to cut fabric and sit in on pattern choice making for their Fall line and I thought of this as a great opportunity to gain some knowledge of the fashion industry and what goes on behind the scenes. I didn't mind not getting paid for the ridiculous tasks they asked me to do daily, but when Fashion Week rolled around it was more than I could bare. The entire summer I had been the only intern working in the Design Studio, but because there was so much to do in preparation for Fashion week they needed more help so they hired a few more interns. Having multiple interns makes it difficult for the company to pay all of them, but there are other ways that a fashion house can show some sort of gratitude to the lowly summer intern other than giving them a paycheck. I would have been perfectly happy with something from the closet. Multiple times I was asked to go into the closet to look for empty boxes to Fed-ex things or old shopping bags to messenger somewhere, but there was so much untouched clothing, shoes, bags and jewelry that could use a good home, and they were things that were not necessarily made by that brand. I'm sure there are other interns out there who have felt the same way as me, because if you weren't obsessed with clothes and accessories you probably wouldn't be working there in the first place. But can someone tell me what they're doing with all those extra clothes?

I'm going through a career change right now, and am considering taking an unpaid internship to get new experience in the door. Lets not fool ourselves: free labor is not what anyone wants to do. But if it's the only way you can get the experience you need, you have to do it or find another career. That said, if I was on the employer side, I'd definitely be looking for free help, so I don't really see it going anywhere or turning into paid jobs. That's just not realistic.

A billion dollar industry that's been in the game for decades can afford to pay interns. This industry is greedy and like old order. Interns slave all day, get token advantage of on their creative talent and still not guaranteed a job-THAT'S NOT FAIR. That intern is still a human being who has bills to pay like the people at the top, if you put your work in you deserve to get paid.
This industry is so fixed on the past and what worked then, it had it's cycle everything is subject for change in it's due time.

FASHION is becoming one of the most unpractical professions to be in. No one really cares about buying overrated crap anymore with a bad economy. I hope it does die. I did an unpaid internship, because I thought if I worked hard, which I did, then they would give me a job. I was the only intern, a slave, running around the city.. and my family didn't understand why the hell I was working for free with the amount of talent I have..

No other industry can get away with unpaid internships except for fashion. Anyone switching careers or who has to support themself can not do a full time unpaid internship, its ridiculous! The industry is eliminating talented people who need to support themselves. Minimum wage should me mandatory and common sense! Internships should not be eliminated, but working all day for free should be! Having completed a number of internships in fashion and other industries I know that no other industry handles people like this!

The problem as I see it is that many many people abuse the ability to use unpaid interns. It ends up hurting everyone.

I definitely think interns should get paid minimum wage. I am a college graduate who moved to NYC to pursue a career in fashion and upon arriving here, I landed an internship at a leading fashion magazine. I worked full time as if it were a real job and did it for free. The lack of compensation added so much stress to my life as I had to worry about rent and bills, so when the money I saved ran out, I got a job at a restaurant and picked up babysitting jobs. Trying to juggle work and a full time internship is exhausting. I was doing so many things and my body was wearing out. I just wanted to focus on fashion. I began to resent the fact that I was an intern and didn't really even feel appreciated. Breaking into this industry is not a walk in the park, it is hard and it is meant to be hard. Pay your dues so to speak, but when does that end? I don't want a huge salary. Minimum wage is enough compensation for me because at least I am working toward a career goal and making some money to make ends meet. When I had internships in college, I was happy to not getting paid because the compensation was school credit. If interns are only allowed to be students, how will anyone who ever wants to pursue fashion be able to break in the industry if they don't attend school in New York or Los Angeles? Students can't devote as many hours as college graduates because they have class schedules also, which will definitely slow down companies with interns.

This is a thought provoking article. Good job for raising the question Fashionista. My take is this industry in this economic climate has made it possible for even worse abuse to happen. While you ask us, what is your stance on this subject???

You mention unpaid assistants on set. Thats the problem with the fashion industry. You don't know the difference between intern and assistant. Ive been in the industry for four years now, including “doing my time” with unpaid internships. Just this week I got a call from two different stylists to “INTERN.” I worked on staff at a magazine, was paid to assist several different stylists and its all on my resume which they looked at. I started saying no, I don't care if its the most famous stylist in the world. You dont pay me, I dont work. Magazines want to stay a float? Stop making pay scales so top heavy and leave budget for assistants. Unpaid interns in school are fine as long as they get a stipend for travel and lunch. When you want them to run the show, the closet, make call ins, help on set….thats an assistant.

What about companies who downsize and compensate with 3x more than usual unpaid interns to compensate? How fair is that and how effective is work actually getting done?

The biggest joke about unpaid internships is that you are actually PAYING to work for free. My internship course I took was $600 for the credits. So I essentially had to pay $600 for a semester to work 30 hour weeks.

Different and complex situations. Unpaid internships use to lead to some people getting jobs, but not in these times. The experiences vary widely and, if you learn nothing else, I have learned how I don't want to be as an employer or boss as well as those bosses/experiences that I want to remember when I am the boss. The issue of unpaid being for those who have other means of support is a legitimate one. If a company is truly looking for talent (and not just free labor), they have to know that they miss many very talented and hard working people who can't afford to work for free (pride is not the issue, survival often is!). Finally, for college credit is no as simple an issue either. If you intern during the year, adding a credit or two is not a big deal in terms of tuition; however, it you are doing a summer internship, you will end up paying the university for the course credit which means you end up paying for an upaid internship! Companies, including fashion companies, need to be responsible and ethical.

Internships are there to show who really wants to be in this industry. Everybody wants a check, but it helps to weed out the slackers and find the hardworking, make it happen individual. I feel that although I would love to come by a paid internship, If I had to choose between the two, I'd still go with non paid. IT is more competitive and rewarding; people you meet and what you learn are priceless.

Internships are a great way of getting your foot in the door, however nearly all of them being unpaid, it means the only people going for them have daddy's with a lot of money. If you have no support financially, how are you expected to work an intership that's unpaid for 3 months?

Amanda

Interns should definitely vw paid, I am an intern now and I also will be interning this summer and it's hard to work 20+ hours a week for free when you know at a real job you could be paid for all of that time. It's especially hard for many of my friends that can't afford to work for free but would like to gain experience in their field. You really shouldn't have to sacrifice financial stability for career experience.

Also doing internships for credit has negative aspects as well. I go to NYU and 1 credit (the minimum you can do an internship for – the max is 4 credits) is about 1,500 dollars. Definitely a steep price to pay.

I have been doing several unpaid internships for a while and I work in retail besides the internship to live off(and I have to confess, yes I get support from my parents on rent). First it is ridiculous that fashion industries are flourishing in the most expensive cities around the world (New York, L.A, London, Paris, Milan, and Tokyo!) and while you need some internship experience to get a real job in the industry, internships are not paid! A lot of industries don't even pay for travel expense and lunch. How many young kids can afford to pay for the rent in the city and food? (Oh by the way, out of all those fashion capitals, U.S is the only place that has got unpaid internships. Yeah..interns in London get paid)

Second, a lot of employers(including my former employer) hire interns for the sake of free assistant labor! Not for taking mutual benefit of giving you the learning experience and getting their works done, they want to use you for getting coffee, making phone calls, scheduling their lunches and free massenger service! I remember the designer I worked for said “Uh..isn't there anyone setting up my corporate web site for free? I mean free..” She hired interns for the sake of free labors. Did interns learn a lot? it all depends. She didn't let finance intern to work on quickbook because she doesn't think interns working on quickbook is right.(Hello? They are finance interns!) At the end, she let the last finance intern left(4 to start with, only one left) do quickbook because she doesn't want to hire someone PAID to do those things. I was working on PR. Fortunately, I got very close to marketing director and I did do PR works and got lots of feedbacks. However, I remember other PR interns doing assistant tasks like ordering her puppy's food and craps. I occasionally did them too. A lot of coffee and massenger errands. I have moved A LOT of heavy gowns which weighted like 30lb around the city and wasn't allowed to take a cap. I didn't mind it because I learned a lot too. I am not sure if other interns were happy though.

To be honest, with my parental support, I don't really mind working for free. I just hate those who take advantage of it. If you need a personal assistant doing all personal things, hire an assistant. Interns don't mind few errands but they gotta do something that are related to what they want to learn too.

This debate will not change the nature of this industry(until the federal law passes) so I try to be selective on internships. My employers should be worth working for free. I would never work for someone at the level of the designer I first interned for. Because my work was basically like “The Devil Wears Prada”(I have gotten phone call on sunday asking for help!), but it didn't necessarily open a lot of doors. But if I get an internship at somewhere worth working for free like DVF, Gucci, or major magazines, I definately will. But I know those places hire people who are experienced. So here's my tip to finding a right internships. Look through their job responsibilities and during the interview, ask them what you are doing exactly. Research the company and details about internships. Do they really care if interns learn something from them? Do your employers have got some connections? Does the company do their business well? Do they treat you as a part of their team?