Rants

Has Dov Charney Gone Too Far This Time? Our Writer Thinks So

Friday, Jun 11, 2010 / 3:00 PM

Is there an employment bureau somewhere that requires prurient men to wear ’70s-style aviators with a molester mustache under a half-balding mess of hair? Because Terry Richardson, Olivier Zahm, and Dov Charney pretty much have the market cornered.

Richardson is a major force in the photography world—he’s not going anywhere—and Zahm has never professed to be anything other than what Purple magazine embodies, but Charney’s recent employment faux pas have reminded me again of just how raunchy this CEO is.

American Apparel’s notorious ads didn’t use to bother me years ago, when I was too innocent to realize how young those girls were, or how exploitative their positions—both literal and psychological. But after a few years in New York of, shall we say, learning the intricacies of the “artistic” male’s mind, especially when there’s art/pubescent girls concerned, the ads are really starting to creep me out.

I’m no prude—I enjoy nudity as much as the next guy, especially for the sake of art—but when StyleCrave has to narrow down a publicly traded company’s ad history to pick just the 50 most overtly pornographic photos, I’m going to call foul.

When the U.K. bans an AA campaign that used a “partially nude model, who appeared to be under 16, in a series of images that suggested she was stripping off for an amateur-style photo shoot,” I’m going to call foul. (I’m glad to report she was actually well over 16, but still.)

When a giant NYC billboard of a young women dressed only in tights, bent over, legs spread, gets spray-painted with the tag “Gee, I wonder why women get raped?” I’m going to call foul.

The way I see it, there are two issues here:


Fashionista in your inbox

Subscribe to our free email newsletter and get the best fashion, style, and beauty news and tips.

Most Popular Stories

Comments [48]

Finally, a detraction on American Apparel I can respect. You've based your argument and opinion on tangible things like the public representation of the business. Many news outlets, including Gawker, choose to post an article a week protesting the fact that American Apparel chooses to hire good-looking young adults (which is especially ironic considering most of their staff are too “unique” looking to get considered for a position in most retail chains.)
From my perspective, they have altered the image of their business almost 180 degrees in the past year. They've discontinued the baffling rainbow of colors in most of their products (even they know beige is in) and introduced a whole slew of “classics” seemingly inspired East coast prep schools. Taking a look over the ladies' half of the website just now, the ad imagery seems to be shifting too. I did spot one visible nipple through a sheer jumpsuit, but it was closer to nudity than pornography, more french vogue than hustler.
That said, as soon as the fashion for prim ladies again gives way to the music-video-vixen, Dov will be sure to follow.

unrelated: Not that it has any bearing on the public perception of the ads, but almost every “model” used by AA is in fact an employee of the store in some capacity and a collaborator on the photo-shoot

just a general observation-i can't tell you how many new young straight male photographers there are who are basically in it to shoot women as naked as they can, just for the power of it and in their minds, to hopefully date them.. that bothers me. i love nudity, but i didn't get into fashion to sleep with male models. i have watched too many people get this perverted gleam in their eye as i witness them shooting a girl willing to go topless for them….and their work sucks. my comment has nothing to do with terry richardson. i am talking about those who try to make their work artistic, but you can see from a mile away how much they got off getting a model to show skin for their shots. not all guys are like this of course. i just know better who i want to work with….

call me a hora ~ call me a real new yorker.. but im obsessed with everything about both dov & terry ~ and the way in which they rule the industry we all love to hate.. why blame these men? they are both nothing but brilliant. and lets be honest, the girls they shoot love being the object du jour – just as much as the critics love to critique. those who take the time to disapprove are simply outsiders – jealous that they are too afraid to be comfortable enough to celebrate themselves for the sake of fashion. it takes a very raw and real photographer to simply bring out the best in american beauties. they capture pretty young things being pretty young things. survival in this business revolves around manipulation, seduction, power and pleasure. so don't hate the player hate the game. sex sells. there are plenty of people who have much love and respect for terry and dov – each photo they take is evidence of that.

????????????????? iam swedish monkey

however, if alexander wang sends down a sheer blouse exposing an underaged model's breast, this is ok? i find it contradictory that you condemn american apparel for using sex to sell clothes, as if it's a new concept – has the fashion industry not used this tactic for decades??? high end fashion = ok, afforable apparel = bad….hmm, i call foul.

Quote:
“When a giant NYC billboard of a young women dressed only in tights, bent over, legs spread, gets spray-painted with the tag “Gee, I wonder why women get raped?” I’m going to call foul.”

This, to my mind, is completely ridiculous – to somehow try to absolve/lay the blame for a horrific crime at the foot of a photograph???? Oh yeah, those poor men, if only women didn't look sexy, they wouldn't have had to violate somebody – somebody else's fault, of course. Never their own. This is the kind of attitude that means rape has such low report/conviction rate – women fear they can't look how they want to, own their bodies & sexuality and be free with it, and in the end, the men can try to turn it around to make it look as if they were 'asking for it', us sluts.

As for AA – I am getting pretty tired of what seems to be turning into a witch hunt on Gawker and Jezebel. Every day it's getting bashed for something, often things that are pretty normal in fashion/retail. And now I see another article here. Yes the advertising is provocative and sexy, but to be honest, I barely notice it – all the articles on aforementioned sites are what draws my attention more.
I think it is very disrespectful to the women in the ads to assume exploitation – lots of women enjoy having provocative, sexy photos taken, as well as naked pictures, lots of women do this frequently with boyfriends and find it possibly as an erotic experience as their partner/the photographer.
To be considered 'attractive' or shapely enough to be a model for AA is obviously flattering for a lot of girls, and who is to say they do not find it as much of a turn on as Dov. You have to admit the girls in the ads look pretty confident in themselves.

I know lots of people do not agree with me, but one minute people are complaining about lack of diversity in the fashion world, models being too skinny, over-airbrushing, unrealistic body images etc, and you cannot say that these ads do not look more like everyday people. Make up your mind people!
A body is a body, an ass is just an ass, tits are just tits….buy a burqa if a body is so shameful.

I know exactly what you mean – I was doing a test shoot a year ago where a theme of 70's glamour and sexuality turned in to 'show us your tits' by a photographer that had a reputable reputation. I left the shoot feeling super angry and with no shots for my portfolio. I think what irritated me the most was that he used a Terry point-and-shoot 'technique' and had absolutely NO training whatsoever – and yet, he has managed to get published. Why?? We HAVE to stop these 'photographers'

Seriously? You'll claim Dov Charney and American Apparel have “gone to far,” but you won't call out Terry Richardson on being a perv and/or abusing his power as major photographer? I call foul on that.

i think that there are so many people who think that they can be terry that you have a new breed of photographer who just wants to get girls and they ask us lady stylists to ask the model to go topless, thinking that it will be easier to get them to do it as the woman is asking…..i am not the “asker” anymore….

There is a really big difference between wearing a sheer blouse and being forced/coerced into a position (physically and symbolically) that is degrading. Not to mention the fact that Dov Charney is guilty of actual sexual harassment, not just “edgy” advertising, which, as far as I know, Alexander Wang has not been accused of.

hmmm weird new pop up window didn't recognize my user name…Grammyweezy here darlings.

jealousy? really, you think THAT'S why people have a problem with them?

This a really well-written, passionate post. I just want to thank you for writing it.

as of being a former employee of american apparel, no one is being coerced/forced into anything. people or asked or volunteer to be in ads, you are paid to model in those ads and NO ONE is forced into positions. dov is very open about his sexuality & should mind his mouth sometimes, but he's never been accussed of rape, which in turn does not meet your forced/coerced theory.

Exactly I also agree this attitude of men being weak creatures who cannot control themselves and go rape women because they saw an image o the woman in question was flaunting herself is complete crap.
Points need to be given as they tend to be very inclusive and real in their ads but I do question some of the intentions behind them, these ads are objectifying women as a whole and whether the subject of the image in question enjoys it is besides the point.
There needs to be a balance we need to find as a society were woman are free to dress as skimpy as they want and men won’t consider it an invitation for unwanted attention but until that happens we can’t turn a blind eye to what some of this photographers are passing as edgy/creative/original and what have you.

Whether it's Vogue, Purple, Love or whoever, I'm tired of seeing tits and ass. Show me the clothes, please.

i highly doubt that the author is excusing the idiots who think that if a woman poses in suggestive ads that she is asking for rape…..i get the impression that she is saying that the ads are so raunchy that you bring out the schmucks that will spray paint such an ignorant statement on a billboard….

While I don't particularly care for Dov's delusional 70's porn star behavior,
I like knowing that my bras/socks/tights don't have overworked children's sweat on them.
And since Stella McCartneys basics are still too pricey for me – I'll keep buying AA.

agreed. there are many “fashion” photographers that forget that they have product to sell. i think that the masters of nudity in fashion photography are photographers such as inez and vinoohd and mario sorrenti and helmut newton… there may be full frontal nudity in their work but you absolutely get the sense of respect for the person. i love these mert and marcus images- (NSFW!!!) http://fashiongonerogue.com/love-3-body-conscie… particularl
i happen to really like terry richardson's cheeky shoots too. i have assisted on several of his shoots and it has always been a professional atmosphere. of course as a woman when i hear about models coming forward with horror stories it is disconcerting and i read them with an open mind. i can make up my own mind about what i think about it.

THANK YOU. I buy magazines to look at beautiful, strange, and well-constructed clothes, not naked models. There's Playboy for that.

I live in Europe, in two different countries mainly – I have to say their ads don't really get any attention here. I never hear people talk about them, I only see the furore surrounding them on American sites. I have to say I am always fascinated at the contradictions in 'American culture' – I don't want to tar everyone with the same brush hence the inverted commas – I mean the puritanical, religious, right wingers alongside a massive porn industry in a country where you can find a strip club in a small town but it is illegal to go topless at a beach. The human body is so cloaked in shame for some people and so everything becomes pornographic. Anyway I have gone way off topic.

I often think women objectify themselves…and like it. Lots of women, usually younger, choose to dress 'slutty' for attention, because it makes them feel good, they are proud of their body etc….one could argue as to whether this is linked to self-esteem levels. But again, a blanket statement that all women who dress provocatively have low self-esteem is hugely insulting.
Heterosexual men are always going to pay attention to a girl with less clothes on…but they are not listening to what she says. I think most girls realise this eventually and if they continue to 'get their tits out' then perhaps they just like how it looks, are proud of their body and love to turn heads? More power to them.

I have to say overall I don't feel anything negative toward AA ads – full disclosure I also like Terry Richardson's photography, blog outcast that I am ;)
I take from the ads overtly sexual women, looking confident and in control, without men, and of varying body shapes/ethnicites and although i love conventional high fashion photography, that is a LOT more than you would ever see on the pages of Vogue or a luxury ad.

Finding Dov and Terry brilliant does not a “real new yorker” make.

I should add, that if I had young children viewing these ads in a public urban setting, I might feel differently. I wouldn't mind future children on a topless beach or at a stretch a nudist beach, but I am not so sure about impressionable minds and the more graphic images. How to explain! 'I love your daddy, she reeeallly loves her socks…'

I completely agree! While some of their marketing strategies are pretty sketchy, I think that it is much worse to use sweatshop labor than to take compromising promotional pictures of women (or men) who posed willingly. American Apparel's clothes haven't been relevant for a decade, but they are definitely high quality and made under fair labor practices. It's the only place I'll buy my undershirts, underwear or socks simply because they offer the best fit and quality for the price, but I definitely won't be buying any of their idiotic printed tees anytime soon …

wereallnarcissists.blogspot.com

I think all three are sleazoids and should add gold chains with medallions, long sideburns (whoops – Dov already has those) and a hypertan to mark them all as escaped extras from a Boogie Nights reunion. Their job is to help sell clothes, not exploit young women and girls with their misogynistic photo fantasies.

YES. thank you.
the biggest problem with this article is that, somehow, some asshole spraypainting “THIS IS WHY WOMEN ARE RAPED!” is seemingly the subtext to an article condemning AA. choose your battles—you are going to blame american apparel for using women's body parts in their ads while absolutely glossing over the whole victim-blaming attitudes towards sexual assault? i don't get it.

” and being forced/coerced into a position (physically and symbolically) that is degrading.”

Why is it that women are always being FORCED into these positions? Maybe we should take the time to ask the girls in these photos (who are probably a lot older than they look) if they feel degraded. Then maybe we can judge the people taking these photos and the companies using them.

I find an underaged girl in a sheer blouse EXTREMELY inappropriate. I am a model and have been shot by terry and I have not one HORROR story. But showing an underaged girl's breasts in any way is and should be illegal. But if a girl is in a suggestive photoshoot with a suggestive photographer, who is to say that she wasn't happy to be there and pleased with the photos she's taken?

…many models have come forward to complain about Richardson's sexual harassment. It's not just “outsiders.”

He's been accused of sexual harassment and many former employees have filed lawsuits against him.

you're right, those people are just straight up GREEDY .

they could also be scared, bored, ugly or ignorant.

your english doesn't sound like it makes you one either.

I was actually thinking the same thing about your post (amongst other things, what is a “hora”?)…and your lack of familiarity with the inversion used here by Daria only supports my assumption.

I also want to point out that there is, of course, nothing wrong with not being a native English-speaker, and I applaud any attempts to branch out into other languages. I just thought it was hilarious for lazy queen to (wrongly) think this person used incorrect English when her own thoughts were so imperfectly conveyed.

From what I could gather from them, though, they are also ridiculous. The “real new yorker” thing is just precious.

I've never looked in Playboy but the best nudie mag is…

NSFW!!!
http://www.perfect10.com/

Okay, so you're saying we should ask the model/employee to determine whether the action of the photographer/employer is wrong. The problem with this is that there are a lot of psychological implications that come along with being an exploited person/victim in a situation like this. Take for example, being a victim of domestic abuse. Many, many victims of domestic abuse cannot or will not speak up for themselves. This does not in any way excuse the behavior of the abuser, does it? Just because the model/employee cannot or will not speak up, does not make exploitative/abusive behavior okay.
For the record, I am not a puritan; as Rachel points out below in response to Rashy's comment, nudity can be done tastefully, beautifully and insightfully. I'm just not down with misogyny, ever.

you said “nudie mags” like al bundy does…

Well, I did sell shoes at one point in my life…

http://www.stanford.edu/~rag/cse/bundy1.jpg

haha!!! did you ever see the episode where milla jovovich plays a french foreign extrange student named yvette?

p.s. i am having trouble posting comments on your blog..it keeps saying that i am a spammer :(…..i guess that makes sense as i am a spastic, prolific commenter…

http://www.dvdinmypants.com/reviews/H-N/images/…

yea, i've seen most episodes.

there shouldn't be any commenting issues with posterous.

Grammy-
Yes I think we should ask the models/employees, like I said. I have been shot by Terry. I did not suffer and “psychological implcations”. I do not feel victimized or degraded. I'm saying that is not anyone's place to assume that sexy photos of a girl are a form of ABUSE. Its insulting to the people in those photos to assume that they don't have the capacity to make any decisions regarding their safety or sexuality. You have every right to not like the photos or the “creepy people” taking them but you can't ASSUME that these women were forced into these positions just because you feel like it helps your argument.

My whole issue with this argument is that people are calling dov, terry and like like ABUSERS for taking sexual pictures and the women in the photos are VICTIMS and ABUSED. I think its absurd and offensive as a model myself.

(This is actually a response to the comment below…)

Your experience with Terry does not determine every other model's experience with him. Just because you were not intimidated into doing something that you were not comfortable with does not mean that another person wasn't. Furthermore, I am not assigning feelings to these models in order to “help my argument”; there are models/employees of both Dov and Terry who have come forward and said that they felt coerced into doing things that they were not comfortable with. I didn't make that up. I am merely trying to defend a woman's right to speak up for herself, because any woman who does is undoubtedly met with a barrage of ignorant people suggesting that she likes being treated like shit. I'm done talking about this now.

(This is actually a response to the comment below…)

Your experience with Terry does not determine every other model's experience with him. Just because you were not intimidated into doing something that you were not comfortable with does not mean that another person wasn't. Furthermore, I am not assigning feelings to these models in order to “help my argument”; there are models/employees of both Dov and Terry who have come forward and said that they felt coerced into doing things that they were not comfortable with. I didn't make that up. I am merely trying to defend a woman's right to speak up for herself, because any woman who does is undoubtedly met with a barrage of ignorant people suggesting that she likes being treated like shit. I'm done talking about this now.

(This is actually a response to the comment below…)

Your experience with Terry does not determine every other model's experience with him. Just because you were not intimidated into doing something that you were not comfortable with does not mean that another person wasn't. Furthermore, I am not assigning feelings to these models in order to “help my argument”; there are models/employees of both Dov and Terry who have come forward and said that they felt coerced into doing things that they were not comfortable with. I didn't make that up. I am merely trying to defend a woman's right to speak up for herself, because any woman who does is undoubtedly met with a barrage of ignorant people suggesting that she likes being treated like shit. I'm done talking about this now.

(This is actually a response to the comment below…)

Your experience with Terry does not determine every other model's experience with him. Just because you were not intimidated into doing something that you were not comfortable with does not mean that another person wasn't. Furthermore, I am not assigning feelings to these models in order to “help my argument”; there are models/employees of both Dov and Terry who have come forward and said that they felt coerced into doing things that they were not comfortable with. I didn't make that up. I am merely trying to defend a woman's right to speak up for herself, because any woman who does is undoubtedly met with a barrage of ignorant people suggesting that she likes being treated like shit. I'm done talking about this now.

I always thought that the guy who spray-painted that – I feel like it was a guy, no idea why – was implying that using women's sexuality to sell things (using a mostly nude woman to sell clothing, for example) was part and parcel of the whole culture that causes some men to treat women as disposable, purely sexual objects. But that's just me.

Just wanted to add that after reading the comments over at Jezebel and Gawker, it seems that AA is run by complete idiots. Lack of success is blamed on employees not being attractive enough or being off brand, rather than the very high prices and overwhelming inventory that must be stocked in one of their many stores. Dov seems to surround himself with people he'd like to see in his ads/want to do himself. He needs to be hiring people that will keep him from borrowing $80 million for a business that should be successful. One place to start? Less sexually charged photography that makes everyone uncomfortable.

hello, Has Dov Charney Gone Too Far This Time? Our Writer Thinks So … world—he's not going anywhere—and Zahm has never professed