Before beginning a career in fashion, Henrik Vibskov worked in visual arts–and that shows in every catwalk he puts on. With past themes including “The Fantabulous Bicycle Music Factory” or “The Slippery Spiral Situation,” he playfully mixes youth culture references with ancient ones.
This time, the show was called “The Last Pier Pandemonium,” an apocalyptic name evoking the capital of hell in Milton’s Paradise Lost, and the castle in the video game Final Fantasy.
This is Henrik’s show in a nutshell: a mix between a classical representation of horror, and a more modern, tongue-in-cheek one, addressed at blasé teenagers.
How does this translate onto clothes? Let’s just say that Vibskov recreated our worst nightmare…when in first grade. He essentially invented an army of bad guys, that frightened the child in all of us. Set in the courtyard of a Parisian school, he installed a wooden pirate boat, on which the men walked down fiercely.
They all wore dark scientist glasses and face pieces, such as Alice bands made out of car tire circling the frame of the face, like a Frankenstein members club.
All the outfits were accessorized with toys, evoking colonial exploration: cameras, ropes, whistles, magnifying glass–emphasized by large canvas rucksacks fit for a gold quest.
As for the designs, one could see a recurring use of taupe, grey, beige, and occasional military prints. Instead of mad oversized prints, he offered basic white shirts and linen detailing, wide shorts and mid-calf socks. His nu-rave past made a discreet appearance on the lining of coats, and prints on trousers. (think the lovechild of Vanessa Bruno and Beetlejuice).
Notable bits and bobs included a black sleeveless coat paired with an oversized aubergine suit with chrome buttons, a salmon man-dress, and a perilous mix of cream and grey.
In short, Vibskov has left behind the ’80s Japanese-workout-video style, for a more City of Lost Children chic.
Beetlejuice and Bruno would approve, surely.