Archive for September 2010

Reviews

Michael van der Ham’s Mixed Media

You can’t consider Michael van der Ham without considering Rodarte. The Los Angeles-based sisters’ influence on the Netherlands-born designer is undeniable when you look at his Spring 2011 collection, shown today at the Topshop space in Waterloo Station.

But van der Ham does something with his clothes that the Rodarte sisters have difficulty pulling off: Despite the mismatched prints and odd seam placement, his collection always looks clean, polished and pretty. I was particularly fond of the summer velvet Pollini shoes he used in the show, as well as the very unique colored crystals he incorporated into his looks. (As a Swarovski sponsored designer, van der Ham had access to the company’s vast crystal archive. However, not all of his peers utilize this privilege in such an impressive way.)

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Reviews

First Look: David Koma’s Patchwork Peplums and Holly Fulton’s Deco Skyscrapers

It was back to the BFC tents this morning, where David Koma and Holly Fulton showed off their Spring 2011 offerings.

First up was Koma, whose pale pink, yellow and gold peplums continued on with the mood of the week. And he showed wedges–another big trend, I’ve realized. According to The Daily, London Fashion Week’s newspaper, editors already hate kitten heels and are retreating back to wedges, which are “more comfortable.” I think the lower you are to the ground the easier it is to walk, but I’m also a girl who’s usually in flats.

But I digress.

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Reviews

LFW Roundup: Basso & Brooke, Mary Katrantzou, Margaret Howell Spring 2011

LONDON–Judging by the sparse front row, 9:00 am must have felt a touch early for the explosive print clashes we’ve come to expect from the boys of Basso & Brooke. But late sleepers missed a Day 3 treat, as the duo showed new maturity with a collection full of classic shapes adorned with, if not [...]

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  • Emily Cronin
  • Sunday, Sep 19, 2010 / 5:00 PM
  • 3 Comments
Reviews

Osman’s Beautiful Cuts Still Come Out Flat

LONDON–There’s something about the BFC tent at Somerset House that’s wild. I’m not sure if it’s the stark black walls juxtaposed against the brightly light catwalk or the hoards of students circling around the entrances. But it feels crazy. Or maybe I’m just crazy, which is also quite possible at this point in Fashion Month.

Celebrated designer Osman Yousefzada’s clothes, which he showed yesterday in the space, are not crazy or schizophrenic under any circumstances. His pieces are all about the dramatic, clean cut. Most definitely a minimalist, he adds edge to ensembles with an asymmetric hem here, a flourish of flouncy fabric there. It’s difficult to deny his particular genius.

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Fashion Week

Karen Walker Makes Ordinary Extraordinary

With William Eggleston’s photographs and a clothespin silk print as starting points, Karen Walker presented another fantastic collection for SS11.

Looking at the beauty of mundane objects, Walker created effortless, wearable looks that made even the grouchiest New Yorker wish for summer’s breezy days. From sherbet colored, pajama inspired ensembles to gray tees with pop-colored full skirts, every look was uplifting. The feeling was of the ’60s, but not the uptown stuff you’re used to seeing on Mad Men; Walker’s looks were better suited for weekends bonfires set to Pet Sounds and Revolver.

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Fashion Week

Triumphant Minimalism at Narciso and Calvin

NYFW came to a close with two immaculate collections by two of New York’s most important and relevant designers, Narciso Rodriguez and Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein.

Both designers went back to their roots for SS11. Cut was the star of each collection, each reworking minimalism in a season where it seems like everyone is striving to be the next Helmut Lang. But Rodriguez and Costa are anything but followers. Each has such a strong, focused voice–their collections stood out from the whitewashed masses like rays of light.

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Rants

An Ode to Charlotte Olympia

LONDON–Britt had raved about socialite Charlotte Dellal’s shoe collection Charlotte Olympia, and I had read a few profiles on her in UK glossies, but now that I’ve seen several pairs of Dellal’s shoes close up–at Emilio de la Morena, Henry Holland, and on the designer herself–I’m smitten.

As a sensible shoe person–I own very few pairs of crazy heels, and I wear them sparingly–it’s difficult for me to understand how people can physically bear to walk in many of them. While I appreciate the art of cobbling, particularly Nicholas Kirkwood’s work, I know that even if I could afford those Kirkwood for Rodarte shoes, I would have to put them on display like a sculpture, as I know I would never be able to walk in them, even for a second.

But there’s something about Dellal’s shoes, something almost accessible–maybe the sky-high platforms?–that makes me think I could pull them off.

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Reviews

Henry Holland Grows Up Just Enough

When House of Holland first debuted at London Fashion Week in 2008, people loved it–but not because it was so revolutionary. Rather, because it was fun. Really fun. And Henry Holland and his friends–Aggy Deyn, Peaches Geldoff, Alexa Chung–made it quite fun because it was their party. From fluorescent purple plaids to zebra print anything, it was to be taken as a fun romp, not a rack of clothing that people would actually buy.

But something changed with Holland’s “Pantone” collection. Despite its innate unwearability, people loved it so much that they became obsessed with this particular idea of color-blocking and scooped up every pair of tights produced. Holland realized that tights were great place to make some real cash, and soon his fashion house because a real business.

This season, with the help of Swarovski–who is also sponsoring me on my trip to London, thank you very much–the House of Holland became a viable commercial player. But not to worry–there was still plenty of fun to be had.

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Reviews

Topshop Unique Spring 2011: White Winged Doves

LONDON–Steve Nicks’ Edge of Seventeen provided the arc in Topshop Unique‘s Spring 2011 runway soundtrack. And it was wholly appropriate. Styled by Katie Grand, the girls were ’70s all the way.

We loved the ‘fros, but our favorite pieces were the sheer, flowy pants, long suit jackets and a berry sweater and hot pants set that looked innocent in a sea of sex and rock ‘n roll.

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Fashion Week

Gallery: Emilio de le Morena Spring 2011

We gave you a first look at Emilio de le Morena‘s Spring 2011 collection. Here’s the rest.

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Reviews

Oscar de la Renta’s Posh Garden Party

Oscar de la Renta S/S 2011 Cheat Sheet:

-a decadent garden party
-classic silhouettes
-silk faille
-evening gloves, hair bows, and kitten heels
-lime green, light pink, glamorous black
-playful appliques
-‘50s feel; modern aesthetic

From a seat a few rows back from the catwalk it’s apparent: Oscar de la Renta is a man apart. The designer offered a fashion week finale far from the rush of the Lincoln Center tent. The celebs that filled his front row were top-tier editors (with a single flashbulb celebrity exception in SJP) and the mood was relaxed.

The start: drums, Spanish guitar, hair in big buns and silk. Pantsuits in swinging silk, tightly belted, and day dresses were in wide, elegant plaid or floral patterns. But the night looks were the most striking. The luxury of seasons past remained, of course, with a playful infusion of color and textures (lime green, pink, red and yellow appliquéd carnations, lace and sequins). In all their complicated construction with silk chiffon ruffles, floral embroidery and organza volume, they seemed lighthearted and youthful, especially when set to the music of the ’50s.

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  • LAUREN STREIB
  • Saturday, Sep 18, 2010 / 2:02 PM
  • 4 Comments
The Business

Newsflash: The Fashion Industry Contributes £37 Billion to the UK Economy Each Year

LONDON–Remember that teaser for The September Issue where the voice-over would say, “Fashion is $500 billion global industry…” or something like that? Well, it looks like the UK makes up about a tenth of that $500 billion.

At least according to a new study commissioned by the British Fashion Council. Fancy-sounding consultants Oxford Economics researched and wrote the report, which states that £37 billion is made–directly or indirectly–from fashion each year in Great Britain. That’s not too shabby, given the size of the country. In fact, fashion is the 15th largest industry (out of approximately 81) in the UK.

The results are a boon to those like designer Christopher Raeburn, who produces much, if not all, of his product here in the UK. Fashion’s importance to the economy reinforces his mission.

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