Archive for September 2010

Fashion Week

Katie Gallagher Freaks Me Out, In a Good Way

There is something other-worldly about Katie Gallagher’s designs. Ignoring the fact that the creepy red eye makeup and matching slicked back I Dream of Genie ponytails made the already eerie-looking models look even freakier, you can’t help but look at certain pieces and think, how exactly does this come out of someone’s brain? To me, the RISD grad is one of few American designers whose clothes seem to be executed with a strong, genuine artistic vision. She’s not trying to appeal to buyers or copy someone else or look to the past. Instead, she takes risks, which is extremely ballsy and commendable for such a new line.

Katie presented her Spring collection to an eclectic crowd in a simple gallery space in Chelsea. The presentation wasn’t about some big theme or spring trends. There was no set–just grey cinder blocks for the models to stand on and nothing to distract from Katie’s futuristic, bondagey wears.

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Fashion Week

He Said/She Said: Dualing Reviews from Band of Outsiders and BOY

Dhani and John both spent yesterday afternoon praising at the church of Sternberg, an experience deserving of more than one review. Here are their takes, starting with Boy:

Dhani’s Review:

After standing in line anxiously for about 20 minutes (behind Tavi and a girl who I thought was her same age but is apparently her agent), I was overrun with anticipation. I walked in to find six or seven girls on risers wearing black sunglasses and Boy’s signature preppy with a twist staples. I was instantly obsessed with a pair of platform wooden espadrilles. I thought I was in for a pretty typical presentation, perhaps with some sort of collegiate theme. That was until I realized how large the room was and suddenly felt like I was in the rain forest.

I turned to my right and saw what looked like a bunch of girls standing in a shower. Indeed, there was the inaugural presentation of Girl, Sternberg’s new lower-priced line for women. The models were being misted with water against dim lighting and a backdrop of windows and trees–which might sound weird, but was actually really beautiful. Out of each setting, this one may have fit the best with the haunting music by composer Thomas Newman, instantly recognizable if you’ve ever seen American Beauty or Six Feet Under. Despite the haze, Girl was really cute. While Boy has always been an interpretation of Band’s menswear, Girl is, fittingly, unmistakably girly. Everything was soft, pale, and drapey.

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  • Dhani Mau & John Ortved
  • Monday, Sep 13, 2010 / 10:30 AM
  • 1 Comment
Would You Rather?

Would You Rather…? The All-White Edition

By Steff Yotka Monday, Sep 13, 2010 / 10:00 AM

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Fashion Week

It’s Official: Nicola Formichetti is in at Thierry Mugler

It’s been a rumor for over three months, and now it’s confirmed: Superstar stylist Nicola Formichetti is now the creative director at French fashion house Thierry Mugler, which is owned by Clarins. His first collection will be for Fall 2011.

Formichetti will have two head designers directly under him: Sébastien Peigné for womenswear, and Romain Kremer for menswear. Peigné has spent the last ten years working with Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, and Hyères-winner Kremer designs an eponymous collection.

The group is quite young and innovative–Formichetti is just 33, Peigné is 30, and Kremer is 28–so it’ll be interesting to see whether or not they turn the house upside down.

Regardless, they’re sure to stay true to Mugler’s original vision. Formichetti is obviously a huge fan–he’s used Mugler’s costumes in a Gaga video or two.

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Beauty

Lady Gaga Gets A Fragrance, Finally

While everyone was out at parties last night, I was sitting on my couch scrolling through Twitter and watching the VMAs–appropriately, I suppose–when WWD tweeted this late-breaking news flash.

Lady Gaga, in a deal that was completed last week, has finally signed a long-term licensing agreement with Coty to create fragrances under her name. The first one will launch in Spring 2012.

Good gravy. What will this smell like? I actually hope it smells weird and funky. And the bottles better be spectacular. I often forget to wear a scent (and I have quite a collection), but I love how they look all lined up on the counter.

What do you think the top notes will be? Hairspray? Rubber?

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Fashion Shows

Jason Wu: The Mrs. O Effect

Michelle Obama made Jason Wu a household name, and we could see her in just about every hot pink and lime and bow-embellished piece Wu sent down the runway for his Spring/Summer 2011 collection (save the sheer chiffon blouses–not very FLOTUS like).

Wu’s vibrant color palette was inspired by the energy of Brazilian artist Beatriz Milhazes’ work. Delicate silk and chiffon blouses were paired with pin tucked trousers and cascade front skirts. The last ten or so looks were quintessential Wu–beautiful red carpet ready gowns, the skirts covered in fluttery petals. It’s a collection made to please–buyers, glossy editors and celeb stylists–Wu’s keeping everyone happy.

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Fashion Shows

Juan Carlos Obando: Another Name to Watch

Juan Carlos Obando, sponsored by Swarovski this season, was one of the few designers to tackle the futuristic for Spring 2011. A collection that belongs in both the pages of Vogue as much as it does in the pages of V, it was Mad Men-meets-Martians, if you will. And I liked it.

Obando, who is based in Los Angeles, sent out thick silk fabric that was almost plush in its design–kind of like a very, very thin puffy coat. And with prints that reminded me of outer space. (The Swarovski element was present in the black rhinestone beading purposefully sprinkled on the back of a few dresses–it was highly effective.)

While the prints were futuristic, the silhouettes were pure vintage. Plenty of peplums and tulip skirts–my favorites.

Obando’s been seeing buyers at the Swarovski showroom over the course of the week. We’re betting his pieces will be stocked in even more retailers come next spring.

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Fashion Shows

Alexander Wang’s Return to Normalcy?

Last season, I didn’t love Alexander Wang, but I did love the concepts. The pinstripe, the baby bells, the camel–these were all items or ideas that I knew would become important to fashion soon, if not immediately. Camel and baby bells caught on fast. Pinstripe is still yet to emerge, but I feel its presence underneath the surface.

Maybe it was the negative press garnered from his last collection, or simply the desire to move away from trend-heavy pieces. But this season’s Alexander Wang show was entirely new, yet not totally fresh.

The first half of the show was all white–I tweeted that I was sure “clean slate” would pop up in nearly every review written about the collection. But it really did seem like some sort of rebirth–Wang even painted his models hair and eyebrows with streaks of white.

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Fashion Shows

At ADAM, P is Most Definitely For Pretty

Adam Lippes knows a thing or two about pretty; he was, after all, global creative director at Oscar de la Renta for seven years.

But while Lippes’ own adam+eve line emerged in 2004 as a bank of basics, since then, not only has the name changed, but so too has its aesthetic.

In the past couple seasons, ADAM has gone back to pretty. Like, really pretty.

Perhaps it’s just another case of this season’s sartorial shift from grandeur and drama back towards minimalism and femininity. But whatever the cause for the slant towards sophistication, one thing’s for sure: Lippes is more than well trained for it.

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  • Natalie Matthews
  • Sunday, Sep 12, 2010 / 4:30 PM
  • 0 Comments
Fashion Shows

Paging Rayanne Graff: Charlotte Ronson Hearts the ’90s

Holy ’90s flashback. Charlotte Ronson‘s Spring/Summer 2011 collection was very literally inspired by the mid ’90s. Stuff Rayanne Graff and Angela Chase would have died to wear. Maybe even some stuff Rayanne Graff did wear. And as someone who came of age in the ’90s, the show was a nostalgic blast. Much credit must be given to Charlotte’s sister Sam for providing an amazing ’90s soundtrack for the show that included “Laid” by James and a finale set to Lisa Loeb’s “Stay” (everyone sang along).

Lindsey Wixson opened the show and set the tone in a sheer orange spaghetti strap dress, slouchy knit beanie hat, thin braids towards the front of her straight, parted-down-the-middle hair, and a nose ring. Hoodies were draped in an “I don’t give a fuck” kind of way over models heads. There were long floral print dresses over short-sleeved white tees, cinched at the waist with, duh, a tied flannel shirt. I could hear Cher’s voice in my head, “So, this flannel thing. Is that a nod to the crispy Seattle weather, or are you just trying to stay warm in front of the refrigerator?”

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Fashion Shows

Prabal Gurung’s Strongest Showing Yet

Prabal Gurung is a fashion darling, but he’s also got the chops to back up his buzz.

Yesterday’s show at Lincoln center was proof. Not only did he build on his reputation for expertly draped and tailored evening dresses–he also gave us something different: distinctive day wear.

I was afforded the opportunity to sit in Row 1, Section A with Gurung-supporter/sponsor Nadja Swarovski. I’ll be shadowing Swarovski for a bunch of sponsored shows at London Fashion Week, as well as a show in Paris. (I’m traveling with the company as a blogging ambassador of sorts.) It was undoubtedly the best seat I’ve ever had, and I was truly appreciative. Not only did I get a great view of the clothes, but also the INSANELY AMAZING shoes designed by Nicholas Kirkwood. If you thought sky-high heels were on their way out, you’re wrong: Kirkwood’s collection for Prabal was strappy and nearly-dominatrix in its styling, save for the soft nude, gold and neons used on the straps, leather and platforms. Nicholas sat across from us, paying close attention to how the girls walked. But back to the clothes:

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Fashion Shows

Patrik Ervell is Very Clean

One of the sharpest collections I’ve seen this year belongs to Patrik Ervell, who could be called Mr. Clean if we named him by the look of his clothes. Clean cuts, polished looks, razor sharp silhouettes—the collection would have the feel of trains running on time, if it weren’t so darn beautiful for that fascist allusion.

The Swedish Ervell, who had a stint running V magazine, has turned restraint into a level of zen with this collection, and that’s not a dis—he’s managed to hold back without becoming staid, or boring. He’s taken minimalism towards its most endearing end here, making geek chic so sexy and cool we almost have to remove the “geek.” He’s completely bucked his fellow designers’ trends towards workwear, and instead presented a collection that celebrates refinement, urbanity, and the nattier side of youth. Not a chambray in sight.

Ervell had his boys walking on stacks of Financial Times newspapers, and though the designer denies it, perhaps a playful jibe at the changing face of media, or the economic trends, or perhaps at the press as a whole. Or all of the above. Regardless, it left us all chuckling.

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  • John Ortved
  • Sunday, Sep 12, 2010 / 3:30 PM
  • 3 Comments