Archive for September 2010

The Row–the upscale collection designed by Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen–has just canceled its show, according to a source close the situation.

“They’re changing directions,” says the source. This would have been the second showing at New York Fashion Week for the label.

Whether this means the designers will be doing market appointments with buyers and editors is unknown, but one has to wonder whether this has to do with funding. While the collection is beloved by editors and stylists, including us, the prices are out of control. No t-shirt, I don’t care who makes it and what it’s made from, should cost $500. That’s probably why there was a ton of The Row product at the Barneys Warehouse Sale. We know that the label laid quite a few people off in early 2009–maybe they’re still struggling to gain momentum post-recession.

But despite the fact that we think some of their prices are crazy, we’re still kind of bummed that they’re not showing. Last season’s collection was stellar. We’ll keep you updated if we hear more.

Update 1:
The Row will now show their collection to buyers and editors in Paris instead. Whether or not it will be through private market appointments, a presentation, or a runway show, we’ve yet to learn.
Update 2: The postponement is apparently due to late sample deliveries, according to a statement released by the Olsens via WWD.

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Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.

Just a few minutes past midnight last night Alice Cooper took the stage and performed his perennial hit “School’s Out,” released in 1972. This was just moments after ZZ Top sang “Foxy Lady.” Darling Stilettos did the CBGB Ramones classics “Blitzkrieg Pop,” and Donovan Leitch–with Camp Freddy and Perry Farrell–closed the show with the Jane Addiction classic “The Mountain Song.” And that’s only a partial line up of the rockers that came out to perform in celebration of the launch of Original Moonshine and the tenth anniversary of John Varvatos’ menswear collection at the former CBGB space on Bowery, now Varvatos’ store selling his main, USA and Converse collections. Rock & Roll, whiskey and fashion.

Designer fashion requires a narrative–a way of telling a story or relating a lifestyle that the clothes are mere accoutrements. For Mr. Varvatos, it’s his early affection for rock music that has provided the blood that has flowed through his work since launching his first collection for fall 2000. In his office it’s hard to locate a book on fashion, but the piles on his long coffee table include The Illustrated Biography of Bob Dylan, Rock Record 7, CBGB: Decade of Graffiti History and Punk, Made in the U.K – The Music Attitude 1977-1983, Who Shot Rock & Roll, and Ryan Adams and the Cardinals: A View of Other Windows. And off course a tome on The Doors, just to name a few. In reconnecting with his adolescent obsession with rock music Mr. Varvatos gives the brand a soul, or what we call “fashion.”

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Christian Cota says he drew inspiration for his Spring/Summer 2011 collection from the “depths of the Yucatan jungle” where he spent some time hiding out in a “high-tech eco-cabin.” I’ve never been to the Yucatan jungle, but if it inspired Cota to create this elegantly tailored collection, a reflection of the juxtaposition of the high-tech against nature at its purist, I’d like to go to there.

The show opened to the sounds of a bird cawing and feathers flapping, fitting as feathers in pale pastels showed up in Cota’s hand painted prints. Cota, a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, sent down a mix of structured, tailored separates–crisp white shorts paired with silk cropped or trapeze tops with sheer inserts–and soft tiered gowns, appropriately fluttery given the avian inspiration. Stand out looks include a blush dress that was essentially a backwards blazer with a plunging back, and a short evening gown with a draped train for added drama.

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Under some train tracks in an outside alley in Chelsea, Sharon Wauchob debuted her first collection for Edun. Edun is, of course, the eco-label founded by Ali Hewson and her famous husband. You know who it is. He sings in a band. He wasn’t there. (Gavin Rossdale was, however.)

Edun has been plagued by some inconsistency issues since its inception in 2005. After a big welcome from retailers in the beginning, the Wall Street Journal recently reported that Edun was carried at only 67 stores worldwide, down from hundreds at its heyday in 2006. The company floundered further after creative director Rogan Gregory left in 2007 and the industry as a whole was hit by the recession.

Enter LVMH, who purchased 49% of the company in 2009. Sharon Wauchob was hired as creative director, and most of the company’s production was moved to China after retailers complained about the quality of the garments coming from African facilities. Ali told the WSJ, “It’s a fashion company. That needs to be first and foremost.” Some t-shirts, denim, and jewelry will still be produced in Africa, and the company is hoping to increase African production in the future.

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Season after season, Jill Stuart peppers her front row with press-garnering celebs. While it’s usually a smart move, at Saturday’s show, Stuart’s grocery list of reality stars vied for attention not just with each other, but also with her clothes.

Not so discreet hand-holding (Kourtney Kardashian & Scott Disick) and even less discreet in-seat dancing (Brad Goreski–but hey, the man’s got moves) piqued photographer’s interest even after the lights went down, turning some cameras away from Stuart’s clothes and instead towards the people who court them.

But unlike the celebs, the clothes showed restraint, and at times even austerity. (High-waisted, knee-skimming shorts come to mind, as does a clean navy cape that seemed more Jil Sander than Jill Stuart).

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By 9pm last night Leah and I were getting a little loopy: Mostly because we both love to eat and we hadn’t had time to, save for a bag of Pop Chips, since the early morning. So we headed over to Peels–the new restaurant from the Freemans guys–with Britt, who stared at us in awe as we devoured this steak. (In our defense: We shared it! And the bone just made it look bigger!)

Then it was off to Alex Wang’s carnival over by the IAC building. Pretty much every person who works in fashion/has something to do with fashion was there–from Alessandra Ambrosio to MIA, who was supposed to perform but maybe never did? No one seems to have stuck around for it. Fortunately, the parking lot was so massive that it wasn’t crazy crowded–we had an amazing, amazing time. Belvedere vodka sponsored the carnival, which included a carousel–yes, we rode it–bumper cars–line was too long–and a crazy amount of games. Leah won at basketball, Britt won at knocking down the clown heads, I won at nothing–well, maybe ski ball, but there were no prizes for that. All in all, it was the best fashion party I’ve been to in a long time–maybe ever.

While we were at Alex, Dhani was at United Bamboo. She told me this morning that it, too was a grand time. “It was fun–The Wooly drew lots of well-dressed people despite its out of the way location,” she told me. “I didn’t recognize anyone but everyone looked cool.” Fair enough.

After Wang we headed down to Don Hill’s to see Courtney Love perform.

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Cynthia Rowley’s SS11 collection had some gaping holes, literally. Skirts, pants, and dresses came with perforated holes revealing the skin underneath. The perforations produced a strange and intriguing effect, particularly on a gray long ruffled skirt, where the strong circles contrasted with the garment’s inherent ease.

Continuing with the under/over concept were sheer tops with opaque stripes and dresses covered hem to hem with cabochons. In the color palette of macaroons, the looks were delectable. Giant, sleek barrettes held the models’ pastel hair in place and enamel bar necklaces added a pop to the models’ necklines.

The best looks were the ones that were not trying hard to be innovative. A mint blouse and trouser was a standout, as was a mango colored blouse with cabochon detailed shorts. Later a black shell with black cabochon adorned pants hit every right note.

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Nothing could have been more delightful on a Saturday morning than heading to Rachel Antonoff‘s SS11 presentation. Nestled in a brownstone in the West Village, far away from NYFW hubbub, Rachel and Co. created a Never-never land paradise perfect for playtime, picnics, and stay-up-all-night slumber parties.

Inspired by childhood wonder, Rachel created a collection of “clothes to have adventures in.” With plenty of patterned full skirts perfect for romping, mini dresses with flaring collars, and shorts with scalloped pockets, the collection was sweeter than the smores her models were cooking up in the home’s kitchen. There were many breezy tanks that were cut longer in the back, a nice grown-up touch, well as a sheer pink blouse that blended cuteness and chic with ease.

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Ohne Titel never ceases to please. Yesterday’s show might have been the design duo’s strongest showing yet. Click through for a behind-the-scenes look at the show.

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So Tavi styled that Blackbook shoot, and now she’s styling the Alice & Olivia show on Tuesday.

The wunderkind’s got a lot going on. That might be partially due to the fact that she recently acquired an agent. Her parents–who you know, have jobs–just didn’t have the time to handle all the requests coming in. I’m sure they’re also sick of attending fashion shows, so it’s nice that Tavi has someone to step in as a sort of protector. We don’t know much about this mystery woman, but a tipster sent us some picks of who we think by be her agent styling Tavi for a street shoot with Scott Schuman:

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When I told my mom that I was heading to Nicole Miller before FNO, she said, “I can bring you your little sparkly Nicole Miller dress from eighth grade if you want to wear it.”

I kind of did, but I knew it would be perfectly passé at last evening’s show. Nicole Miller has evolved from being brand of party dresses to a label representing an army of edgy women. The evolution has been a rocky one, but with SS11 Nicole Miller finally settled into a groove that felt right.

A little bit fairy and little bit S&M, the collection had something for everyone when taken apart. Eniko opened in a white cropped motorcycle jacket over a long, sheer button down and a sheer white skirt with thigh-high slits. Most looks had open backs with harnesses of sorts holding the garment together–cool but a little forced. Siri came out in a white maxi dress with green streaks at the bottom and ruffle pleating on top, a look fit for any beach night. Also great was an asymmetrical black patterned dress over a long silk georgette skirt.

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On a sunny Saturday morning with the US Open underway only a few subway stops away, it seemed an appropriate time to see the Lacoste show. This collection is Christophe Lemaire’s last for Lacoste before he decamps the tennis courts for the more luxurious pastures of Hermès.

Despite the debauchery of FNO the night before, the Theatre at Lincoln Center was packed for the 10am show. I heard many conversations taking place in French all around me. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to glean any Gallic gossip, since I chose to study Spanish in high school. There was some chatter about the arrival of Simon Doonan and Jonathan Adler, the cutest couple in NYC, but I missed them.

After deciding that I liked the big resin “1212” graphic cuff that came as a seat gift–Lacoste has launched a jewelry line–I settled in and prepared myself for the preppy. According to the tip sheet, for spring 2011 Lemaire was inspired by OpArt, Bauhaus, and the Villa Noailles which was designed by Robert Mallet-Stevens.

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