Archive for September 2010

So I have a confession to make: I really love Project Runway. As I sat and watched all the personalities file in and Heidi with her mom-shag and suit of indeterminate color (red? coral? fire orange?) take the stage, I was as giddy as a 13-year-old who’s been waiting six hours for Justin Bieber. It’s just damn good entertainment. I make no apologies for my uncoolness.

Obviously there are still several weeks of Project Runway to air before the finale show. So ten designers showed full collections today as a decoy, because the public can’t possibly be trusted with such high-level information as who the real three finalists are.

The Theatre at Lincoln Center was a madhouse before the show. I saw the staff kick a pregnant woman out of a seat because it was for the sponsors. Despite her plea to allow them to let her stay until someone claimed the seat, they hauled her up and out of there.

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One of our Fashionista 15, Victor de Souza did not disappoint at his Spring 2011 runway show last night at an intimate gallery space in the garment district. Although he’s worked in the fashion industry for several years, he is just starting to make a name for himself with his eponymous line of women’s wear. And we aren’t the only ones who have taken notice. The space, though small, was completely full with, well, some random people and family and Amanda Lepore, but also several editors including Elle‘s Kate Lanphear.

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Name: Paikhyelim

Age: 24

Occupation: Student

Where are you originally from? Korea

What is your favorite dessert? Cake

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So Lincoln Center is officially open for fashion business, and it looks spectacular. I actually got chills when I walked into the huge plaza and saw the fountain. And I live on the Upper West Side. I’ve been there 500 times, at least. It was definitely the best-dressed crowd I’ve seen in the neighborhood in a long time, so that alone was enough to move me to tears.

After being photographed by a Japanese magazine (I have no idea why, but of course I agreed to it), I was greeted by the usual burly men with ear pieces at the door. Inside the tents, it’s a wonderland of corporate sponsorship, with Maybelline offering make-up applications, Kim Crawford with wine and hand massages, and Tresemme doing hair styling.

The check-in process was amazingly simple with the new FashionGPS in place. And the PR girls all looked calm and collected behind their imposing row of Macs. I checked into two shows at once and it took a grand total of three minutes. I’m sure horror stories will emerge of system failures, but this morning it was a hive of efficiency.

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Remember how earlier this week we said the fashion industry is slowly but surely beginning to embrace technology? Well, here’s more proof.

Yesterday, Burberry unveiled their ‘Retail Theatre’ concept, which completely reshapes the way consumers shop for their Spring/Summer 2011 womenswear collection.

On September 21, Burberry will be broadcasting their 2011 S/S London Fashion Week show, live from London Fashion Week, to 25 flagship stores worldwide, heigthening the in-store experience for invited guests.

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For Fashion’s Night Out, Yves Saint Laurent is embracing social media and pairing up with Polyvore.

Polyvore-files will have access to a data feed of YSL’s Edition 24 products and YSL accessories to collage with or “make sets” as they say in Polyvore lingo. YSL and Polyvore are also challenging users to create the best YSL “set” and the winner will receive a YSL bag. So start e-scrap-booking people.

More notably, this is the first time we’ve seen Polyvore, essentially a democratically curated e-commerce site, expand and collaborate with other brands beyond their standard partnerships with e-commerce sites they feature. Polyvore is already a powerhouse online, and unique in what they offer–users can create their own sets, or magazine tear sheets, from a selection of merch drawn from numerous e-commerce sites, driving traffic and shoppers back to those sites. And for Polyvore to partner first with a brand like YSL looks very promising indeed.

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This morning, we went up to west 28th street for Nonoo’s Spring ’11 presentation/breakfast at a place called The Flower Shop. We thought it was just a clever name for a restaurant or shop that happened to be in the flower district but it turns out it was literally a flower shop, belonging to a friend of designer Misha Nonoo. Most of the flowers were moved out of the way for models and dress forms, except a few left to create a charming ambiance and sweet smell.

Anyways, getting back to the reason we were there–to preview Misha Nonoo’s first collection under Nonoo, which used to be designed by two people and called Nonoo Lyons. No word on what exactly happened to cause the split, but Misha didn’t waste any time cranking out another collection of amazing jackets. “I am extremely excited about this new chapter and to be taking Nonoo-Lyons to the next level as simply, Nonoo, with my singular vision,” the designer said.

The collection, comprised of about 15 jackets, was shown on a small group of models, none of whom were wearing pants. It was a little awkward but perhaps the best way to showcase such an item-driven collection. The collection was inspired by music muses like Florence Welch, Romy from The XX and Zooey Deschanel, each of whom have jackets named after them.

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The melding of fashion and law seemed like an odd concept in the past, as evidenced by Elle and her hot pink suits in Legally Blonde. With concerns about counterfeiting, the new intellectual property bill in Congress, and the complex nature of the fashion business, designers need legal support more than ever now.

Stilettos and staid suits met quite literally today as Fordham Law School in NYC launched the Fashion Law Institute yesterday. The CFDA donated $100,000 to the Institute and CFDA president/fairy godmother, Diane von Furstenberg, matched that with a donation of her own. The Institute anticipates that it will need about $1 million its first year.

First, I have to be superficial and mention that the logo for the new Institute is especially clever: A spool of thread and needle made to look like a gavel. Whoever designed it deserves a bonus. Or at least free future legal representation.

Second, DvF is quite hilarious with a dry comic delivery. After acknowledging the work of professor Susan Scafidi, the director of the Fashion Law Institute, she told a story about how Susan wore one of her dresses to a meeting. DvF noted that she had changed the buttons to “nicer ones.” Plus Susan “understands fashion well, which is rare for a lawyer,” she said. Yes. (I saw a lot of poorly fitting, knee length, pinstriped suits in the audience.)

Finally, and most importantly, the Fashion Law Institute is offering some original services to designers and attorneys alike. For designers, they are providing a centralized resource for pro bono legal assistance, educational forums, and a source of information and research. For attorneys, students, and the community, there are degree and non-degree courses, an annual symposium, and public seminars for design and legal professionals.

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Josh Brolin on the Cover of VMan: Josh Brolin, who was photographed by French designer and photographer, Hedi Slimane, graces the cover of VMan’s 19th issue-The Age Issue. You can expect to see men anywhere from 16 to 60 embracing their age and style in VMan’s 19th issue- The Age Issue. {VMAN.com}

Olivier Theyskens for Theory: Olivier Theyskens –the designer best known for his time spent as artistic director at Nina Ricci and his signature gothic-like style–will unveil his capsule collection for Theory next week. Theory? Yes, Theory. {Vogue.com}

Alexa Chung For Madewell Debuts Online Today: Starting today, you can shop the Alexa Chung For Madewell collection online. The collection will hit stores this Saturday, September 11. {Madewell.com}

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PARIS–Yesterday, in a secret cinema room at the bottom of a café in Saint-Germain, Vanessa Bruno held a private projection of her latest film. This is the third time she has created a full-blown short movie to convey the atmosphere of her latest collection.

Entitled Day for Night, it is directed by Stéphanie Di Giusto, and features Parisian models and muses Lou Doillon and Valentine Fillol Cordier.

This short movie poetically explores the complexities of femininity by portraying its two heroines exploring, fighting, and taming nature.

Fashionista met Vanessa Bruno at the end of the projection, and chatted to her about her views on fashion, femininity, and being French (and the three combined).

Congratulations on the film! It’s nice to see that, when a lot of brands are doing punk, you stay true to your original identity.

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Over 200 designers will show collections at New York Fashion Week, which kicks off today. But who should you be watching?

Welcome to the Fashionista 15. There’s no complicated methodology to this–no rigid ranking. These 15 labels are simply the ones we know you should be paying attention to. We’ve used our own research and reporting–as well as recommendations from our industry friends and sources–to bring you the brands that in two, three, five years will be winning Swarovski Awards and CFDA mentorships. They’ll be collaborating with Target or Urban Outfitters. They’re changing New York fashion. And they’re having fun doing it. Click through to see our picks–who tops your list?

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