On Tuesday I got a sneak peek into Jonathan Anderson‘s Shorditch workroom, where he was putting the final touches on his Spring 2011 collection, which he showed at the BFC tents on Wednesday. I’ve put together a little photo essay of what I saw, plus the final results.
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London Spring 2011 was hands down my favorite fashion week ever. Shocked, are you? Once you feel the energy, see the masterful technique, and find yourself wide-eyed by the innovation, you’ll understand where I’m coming from. Here are my ten favorites.
Additionally, I must send out a big thanks to Swarvoski, not only because they sponsored my trip to the UK, but also because they underwrote almost all of the very best shows at LFW. If not for them, some of these collection mightn’t have happened.
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A few days ago Julie Haus-Alkire opened the doors of her first brick-and-mortar store on 458 Broome St. (between Greene and Mercer Sts.). Just 45 minutes later, she had sold over $1,000 worth of merchandise.
Texas native Haus-Alkire, who designs her eponymous line, Julie Haus, as well as a diffusion line, J/J by Julie Haus, is taking her early sale as a good sign. “It feels like people are buying,” says Haus-Alkire, “at least key investment pieces.” She gives a lot of credit to the location. “This area is shifting,” says Haus. “Three years ago, SoHo was still all about big brand stores and now with Isabel Marant down the street, VPL moving in, and Alexander Wang, I just feel lucky to have that walk-by traffic.” Of course, her fall collection–drapey tops and dresses and cropped blazers with thick braided knit details–should drive traffic as well.
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Giorgio Gucci Gets His Bag Stolen: On an US Airways flight from Madrid to Philadelphia, Giorgio Gucci–heir to the House of Gucci throne–had his luggage stolen. Apparently, his bags contained $50,000 worth of goods including vintage Gucci bags, family pictures, and custom-made clothing. All of the goods inside were to be used for an upcoming documentary being made about his life. {Page Six}
Jil Sander Spring Summer 2011 Show: Jil Sander will be streaming their Spring Summer 2011 women’s show live from Milan Fashion Week on September 25. The live stream will give a “front row” view of the new women’s ready to wear, and shoes and bags collection. {Jil Sander}
Kate Moss Gives An Interview: T5M recently interviewed Kate Moss during London Fashion Week. They spoke about her new collaboration with Longchamp, divas, and how “good friends” keep her sane. {Jezebel}
Valerie Campbell Is A Proud Mom: Last night Naomi Campbell hosted a party commemorating her 25 years in the modeling industry. Her mother, Valerie, says she’s very proud of her daughter despite some mishaps she’s had along the way. {Vogue UK}
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It’s debatable whether or not Linsday Lohan‘s boobs are actually fake. But if they are indeed artificial, our sister site Above The Law suggests that breast implants are a catalyst to worse behavior. Specifically drug and alcohol abuse. They offer up other fake-boobed boozers as evidence, including Miss USA 2009 Carrie Prejean, Teresa Giudice, and the ultimate implantee-gone-bad, Tara Reid.
Could Kate Hudson be next?!
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LONDON–As the lights went down at Issa, one man shouted, “Last fashion show in London!”, and everyone cheered… until a meeker voice answered, “Men’s day tomorrow!”
With most in the crowd skipping the menswear to make way for Milan (or, you know, get some sleep), the Issa show definitely had a last dance atmosphere. The party feeling was further enhanced by some familiar faces in the front row: Lily Allen and sister Sarah Owen, partners in a new vintage fashion venture; Poppy Delevigne, and the ubiquitous Amber Rose all turned up.
The clothes? They were pretty much what you’d expect from the figure-friendly designer’s Indian Summer theme.
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MILAN–Before the models started walking, it was clear Henrik Vibskov’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection was set in a kind of post-apocalyptic world. Eerie music piped through the cavernous studio space and oversized orange looms expanded and contracted throughout the runway. Wooden orange structures that looked like pears topped with racing flags were stacked like tepees in corners of the room.
And when the models walked the runway, they were kitted out in post-apocalypse gear: They wore padded headbands with chin straps and small black goggles (I’m ashamed to admit I’m pretty sure they were tanning goggles), necessary for protecting ones eyes from that post-apocalyptic nuclear haze. Braces, kind of like the ones Forrest Gump wore when he was little, enveloped the models’ shoes.
Vibskov’s show felt more like a happening or an art installation than a typical runway show, which is par for the course from the multi-talented artist, musician, and designer from Denmark. “The general vibe is dark, but with a built in optimism that lies in the micro-organic life and the efforts to reestablish what has been broken,” Vibskov’s line sheet read. “The people dressed for this occasion is [sic] strong but humble…to complete the protection and optimise [sic] the strength, we encase these people with emergency flutes, a jar, rope and binoculars amongst others.”
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I’m still not sure what to think of Meadham Kirchhoff‘s S/S 11 show. Focusing on the clothes, I can say that the boys presented an impressive collection of vivid chiffon and lace-spliced dresses in cotton candy pink, Peeps-chick yellow and Slurpee red. Carnival food coloring continued through the hair, which featured rainbow streaks, and in the funhouse floral constructions that unfurled down the catwalk.
But it wasn’t at all sweet. Styling that saw red velvet ribbons take on garotte associations and angry, heavy makeup seemed sadistic. The low, glittery sandals–which may as well have had velcro and My Little Pony appliques, they were so juvenile–invited JonBenét associations.
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Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.
LONDON–From the moment the first model came out onto the wooden floor of the theater wearing a light turquoise silk bustier slip dress, followed by a model in a black stretch corseted silk crepe dress with sheer panels outlining its boning, it was clear that Marios Schwab has returned to the tight body hugging silhouette of his first collections. (The label launched in 2006.)
Bruce Springsteen’s “I’m On Fire” and Nirvana’s “Come As You Are” blasted over the loudspeakers, virtually announcing the fierce rebel spirit of these girls in lingerie dresses dabbed with lacework. Tattoo patterns were printed onto the green and pale pink silks and jerseys.
There was a sense that while these looks were youthful and geared towards a younger generation of women who want sexy clothes, the show lacked the depth of Mr. Schwab’s creative talents.
“I would say this collection is less about body concious shapes and more about fluidity and the drape of cloth on the body to accentuate key areas of interest on the body. Combining the feminine slip dresses with leather pieces which have a tougher, harder edge,” Mr. Schwab said after his show. “The women I had in mind when creating this collection are a generation of women who have multi-faceted personalities shaped by contemporary culture and the different roles she must fulfill in her life. They’re loaded with contradictory ideas and spirits.”
“Designed to bring the mystery of the female body to the surface,” the show’s centerpiece was a variation of the lingerie slip dress whether worn as a top with a slit and torn effect with white print pants or as a corset worn with black leather pants and black leather boots. Remember that Mr.Schwab’s father was an engineer at a bra factory and he had studied sewing in Salzburg when he was young. He added his own design elements to make each simple dresses more individualistic. Witness, for example, a lightly draped long silk dress in green with a cut-out at the center of the chest, or a tan leather dress with black leather upside down triangles below the nipples.
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LONDON–Through a scrim we could see the models for Clements Ribeiro’s S/S 11 show assembling–an array of reedy girls in shifts and A4 paper hats. We knew it was time to begin when the lights dimmed and a spotlight threw models’ silhouettes onto the thin muslin screen, creating what was surely one of the week’s most quietly lovely images.
From that beautiful beginning came a parade of palette-cleansing clothes, a fashion sorbet of ladylike dresses in gorgeous original prints. First down the catwalk was a purple and green hydrangea-print shift, followed by a shirt with boughs of jasmine in white on a red background. This same print in a skirt looked perfect when paired with a fine gauge Breton-striped sweater.
Best of all, though, was a nipped-waist v-neck dress with browns, peaches, aubergines and lemon curd tones applied to those same hydrangeas, prompting instant covetousness and some magical budgetary thinking on my part.
When the print disappeared, ensembles briefly veered into less interesting territory. An off-the-shoulder navy blue embossed silk dress with an obi waist tie and wide sleeves would have been stronger without the large paillette flowers (sequins fell off of other heavily embellished garments). But a navy cardigan the same length as a short lace dress in the same color read as flirty and young.
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George Clooney, who almost always wears Armani but refuses to comment on his wardrobe, might sit front row at the designer’s show, according to rumors circulating around Milano.
I typically don’t get giddy about celebrities–unless we’re talking about Food Network stars or Chuck Bass–but to get a glimpse of Gorgeous George is would be pretty exciting. I’m kind of jealous of Leah.
Other celebrities set to appear at Armani’s Monday show include Megan Fox (snore), husband Brian Austin Green (hilarious), and Jada Pinkett Smith (that’s nice).
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LONDON–Once the last piece of mirrorball confetti hit the floor at Burberry, showgoers blinked their way into the sunlight smiling. It seemed to many that the crescendo of the week would also be a good place to end LFW—but anyone who continued down the show roster to Ashish was in for a treat.
If Giles flew the flag for kitsch Britannia with his show, Ashish answered with a Gaga-‘n-Beyonce “Telephone”-video vision of the glitzy American West. The opening salvo of, “Don’t f**k with me, fellas!” set the tone, telling us to expect to meet a good-time gun-slinger of a gal—someone ready to ride anywhere in her sequin-emblazoned bandanna top.
With the cow-print blazers, oversized paisley basketball shorts and flame-grilled motifs ALL in sequins, as well as boots hand-painted with cacti, horseshoes and McDonald’s and Coca-Cola branding; and even tall Native American headdresses, the show was wild, but that was the point. Ashish always puts on a fun show—the models looked like they were having a great time, and front rowers’ feet didn’t stop bouncing to the tunes through the entire show.
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