PARIS–Haider Ackermann, the star of Antwerp’s new generation, drew an impressive crowd to his show on Saturday morning, ranging from Emmanuelle Alt to Janet Jackson.

A little brother to Ann Demeulemesteer, he has been steadily making a name for himself for his mastering of dark, deconstructed clothes, and a trademark use of leather and silk.

This season, he remained true to himself, but proved a definite evolution–he added colors to his usually somber palette.

The clothes, bearing a strong Japanese influence, started with black, cropped leather jackets and halter necks, moving on to grey striped ensembles, followed by a bold use of red and black, and royal blue.

“The color is the real novelty here, what I’m trying to say is that ‘my woman’ is ready to come out of the shadow,” Haider told us minutes after the show.

And indeed, the shades contrasted finely with the gothic, layered silhouettes.

We particularly enjoyed the long skirts, often split at the front, and worn over matching jeans.

As for the Kimono look, he borrowed obvious elements such as wrap-over jackets with large belts, which he gave a sexier touch, by, for example, making those backless. Although the source of influence is no novelty (Galliano for Dior, amongst many others), Haider successfully injected his own tenebrous touch into it.

As for the choice of music–a sound of storm, followed by an acapella “Love Me Tender,” we get the message: Yes Haider, we’ll love you tenderly, whatever the color palette.

**All photos by Bruno Albizatti.