PARIS–At this point in Fashion Month, all I want, more than anything else, is to feel giddy about some clothes. I’ve spent the last three weeks nitpicking and dissecting collections, and while there have been plenty of technically superb shows this season, there haven’t been a ton where I wanted things for myself. (Exceptions include: Richard Nicoll, HONOR, and Emilio de la Morena.)
However, today at Azzaro Spring 2011, I felt more than a twinge of “I want to buy that” excitement.
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PARIS–I was not supposed to attend Céline. However, my fairy godmother secured me a ticket at the 11th hour, which means I hightailed it down to the Tennis Club de Paris on the outskirts of the city just minutes before the show was about to start. My cab wouldn’t take me right there–84 Georges Lafont–because it’s technically outside of the city line, so I ran the last ten minutes of the trip.
I’m happy to report that I arrived as they began to rip the plastic off of the runway. (Which, by the way, seemed to be made out of some sort of cork.) The standing spots were terrible, so I plopped myself on the edge of the pit.
It was then and there that I decided, other than A-A-4, you can’t get much better than sitting with the photogs. I watched designer Phoebe Philo‘s women gingerly walk down the runway in low-slung, wide-legged pants, jumpsuits in everything from denim to leather (also low-slung), and several shells with squared shoulders that looked as though they were made of a mix of cotton and neoprene. The models wore their hair in low ponytails, their crowns teased to perfection.
Read more »Which semi-famous publicist is desperate to have her Twitter fan account deleted? She liked the attention–and free PR!–at first, but now feels like it’s an invasion of privacy.
Ralph Lauren wasn’t the only prominent brand to (smartly) tap into online media audiences when spreading breast cancer awareness this month. On Wednesday, Bloomingdale’s, along with the Estée Lauder Companies’ 2010 Breast Cancer Awareness Campaign, hosted a worldwide social media event to benefit the Breast Cancer Research Foundation. This year, a handful of bloggers participated by recreating the campaign’s signature visual. Elizabeth Hurley (Estée Lauder spokesmodel) and Evelyn Lauder, Senior Corporate Vice President of The Estée Lauder Companies and Founder and Chairman of The Breast Cancer Research Foundation, kindly took a moment to talk to us about the campaign and the huge impact it’s made.
First of all, Evelyn and Elizabeth were two of the most glamorous people I think I’ve ever seen in real life.
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PARIS–Pedro Lourenco is 20. He’s Brazilian. His parents are designers. And he says that he’s been designing professionally since age 12.
There is plenty of hype around this wunderkind, but not as much as one would expect, given the extreme skill it takes to create what he creates. As I waited in the Beax Arts building on Paris’s left bank for the show to begin, I got a taste of what Lourenco is capable of. Several of the organizers–either his personal PRs or sales people–were wearing Fall 2010 Lourenco creations. In camel and black, the heavy wool pieces were made of blocks of fabrics that looked as though they had been fused together, some molded into curvy pleats.
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PARIS–To see a Lanvin runway show in person is to fully appreciate Alber Elbaz’s devotion to the school of his mentor, Geoffrey Beene. This season, Elbaz’s dresses were mostly jersey and crepe, and the models glided down the runway with a swagger that’s not normally encouraged on modern catwalks. Much like Beene’s work, which was clean cut and functional, Elbaz’s designs consider the woman first. There were flat sandals and spiky heels, formfitting liquid gowns and flowing crepe skirts.
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PARIS–As I stood under a doorway at Couvent des Cordeliers, the ancient convent in which Isabel Marant held her Spring 2011 runway show, a crowd gathered outside huddled under umbrellas, waiting to enter. Like me, most of the women were wearing Isabel Marant: her classic grey sweatshirt, a tunic, a pair of boots. Unlike me, they were predominantly French, and predominantly cool, mostly because of the way their messy hair was tied up in effortless chignons, and the ease of their sweatsuit ensembles.
Isabel Marant’s clothes embody the modern, cool French woman. And that’s why she’s been such a success in the US. Marant, Vanessa Bruno, Paul & Joe…these are all brands we Americans covet because they allow us to emulate French chic. We’re obsessed, even if our blowouts and J Brand jeans do give away our true nationality.
Ironically, Marant’s spring collection was dedicated to a certain American era: The early ’80s days of hip-hop, when girls wore shrunken baseball jackets, hoop earrings, and mesh netting. Mixed in with these heavily-influenced looks were more classic styles, including a few rugby dresses and some calico floral frocks.
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PARIS–Whether you like him or not, Rick Owens, nicknamed “the prince of darkness” by the press, has unarguably invented the neo-Goth: modern, slender, poetic and somber.
This was epitomized in yesterday’s show at Paris Palais de Tokyo.
There, he presented an impeccably orchestrated show, which felt straight out of a dark fairy tale. Seemingly inspired by Snow White’s wicked stepmother, the models marched down the catwalk with grave faces, hair pulled back into spiked combs. The high ceiling of the museum threw gigantic, theatrical shadows on the walls, emphasizing the Tim Burton-esque atmosphere.
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PARIS–No need to tell you French Vogue is turning 90. It’s been loudly announced throughout the fashion sphere, this month’s issue filled with much sought after, limited edition prints.
Now try to imagine a gala to celebrate this, right in the middle of Paris Fashion Week.
Add onto that Eyes Wide Shut as the dress code. The result is dementia, partial nudity and foie gras–very Carine indeed.
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Court Fall Accessories Sale
Deal: 30% off jewelry from Pamela Love, BiJules, and Bliss Lau, plus 30% off sunglasses from Grey Ant and Claw Money
When/Where: Thursday, September 30, noon—8pm. 178 Mulberry St between Broome and Kenmare Sts (212-925-1022)
Tim Hamilton
Deal: Markdowns on edgy pieces for men and women. Included shoes and the menswear archive collection Tim Hamilton Redux.
When/Where: Friday, October 1 through Sunday, October 3. Fri—Sat 11am—6pm, Sun noon—6pm. 526 W. 26th St between Tenth and Eleventh Aves, fifth floor, suite 5B (no phone)
Still Life
Deal: 40% to 60% off summer hats
When/Where: Through Tuesday, October 5. Daily 12pm—7pm. 77 Orchard St between Grand and Broome Sts (212-575-9704)
Rachel Zoe just tweeted this photo of her and her former employee Brad Goreski with the following caption: “Me and lil B on our last photo shoot together.”
Seems like Zoe is really taking strides to make her breakup with Brad seem, as per the original People mag story that broke news of their split, “amicable.” They both released statements to People gushing about how much they loved each other and Zoe said, “He did this with such class and elegance. And I get it. I just told him, ‘I’m here for you always.’”
However rumors surfaced soon after that the New York Times’ profile on Brad was the real reason for his departure. Apparently diva Zoe was peeved that her supporting cast-member had taken her spotlight and secured the most plum placement an aspiring fashion mogul can hope for: A profile in the Style section of the NYT. As far as we can tell, after a quick Nexis search, Zoe has never received the same treatment from the paper of record.
A source familiar with the goings on over at the Bravo reality show lends more credence to the rumors. Rachel has her own publicist at entertainment PR powerhouse 42West in addition to Bravo’s in house publicity, a source tells us, and she was upset that Brad, who doesn’t even pay for outside publicity, managed to snag such awesome press.
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