PARIS--Whether you like him or not, Rick Owens, nicknamed "the prince of darkness" by the press, has unarguably invented the neo-Goth: modern, slender, poetic and somber.
This was epitomized in yesterday’s show at Paris Palais de Tokyo.
There, he presented an impeccably orchestrated show, which felt straight out of a dark fairy tale. Seemingly inspired by Snow White’s wicked stepmother, the models marched down the catwalk with grave faces, hair pulled back into spiked combs. The high ceiling of the museum threw gigantic, theatrical shadows on the walls, emphasizing the Tim Burton-esque atmosphere.
The clothes started off with elongated dresses, halter necks, monochromatic--not just his usual black and white, but off white, cocoa. Long and draped at first, the show progressed into a more cropped silhouettes composed of blunt layers and a repetitive, subtle play on leather. This added a fearsome mercenary feel to the collection, oscillating between ancient Japanese warrior and a Jedi soldiers.
Although the collection remains close to his usual line and flavor, it seems Rick is taking us into another direction this season: more majestic, less urban. Rather, he is proposing a timeless woman, handsome and powerful.
For the Princess Leias amongst you ready to fight an intergalactic couture war, this seems like the ideal gear.