KG: Over the telephone, and then sometimes in the bar at the Principe [in Milan] or the Meurice [in Paris] at show time.

SL: What major concerns do you have business-wise and creative-wise when hiring and working with stylists for?
KG: I commission some stylists giving them complete freedom, others I ask things of–getting involved in casting or the clothes or the location. It depends on the shoot and the idea.

SL: How do you find out about new stylists?
KG: Our paths tend to cross in some way. Some stylists I work with started out on work placement [the Brit's way of saying interning] or are friends of friends or assistants. Or just a chat socially!

SL: What do you look for when you are reviewing a stylist’s portfolio/book? Any dos or don’ts for books?
KG: I think most people look at portfolios on the internet now–which is a shame because there is something so special about portfolios and pages from magazines. It’s just not practical to send something so heavy around.

SL: What are you looking for and listening for when you meet with a stylist?
KG: I gauge a lot from personal appearance and whether someone is nice or not, to be honest.

SL: What is your thinking when you are pairing stylists up with photographers?
KG: It’s usually instinctive.

SL: How do you pair up stylists with subjects, like story ideas or celebrities?
KG: Often celebrity shoots happen so last minute you often have to choose the best person for the job that is available and in the right city. We’ve worked together loads because you are in the right city at the right time and you’ve always done an amazing job. I love how I can call you at lunch time and say “we’ve got four covers to shoot tomorrow morning, is that ok?” And you say “yes” and it gets done and it’s great.

SL: What do you think makes a stylist’s work great? In images? At a show?
KG: Stylists (like most professions) are only as good as the people around them. Fashion is such a team job, you need a great photographer, or designer, a nice art director, a good editor, models, hair, make up, clothes…. It’s who you choose to work with that makes you look good!

SL: What criteria and standards for assessment do you have when you are working with a stylist? I have found a lot of the criteria is unspoken so I would love to hear your thinking about this!
KG: Someone who says yes, delivers with enthusiasm and doesn’t do the opposite of what you ask them to (which happens more times than you’d imagine). And delivers great pictures over and over.

SL: Do you have any specific dos and don’ts for stylists when they are shooting a story for you?
KG: Don’t be rude to anyone, do turn up on time. Having good old fashioned common sense and having good manners.

SL: Who are your favorite stylists?
KG: I have the hugest respect for Carine Roitfeld who both edits a monthly magazine and styles such great stories.

SL: How do you recommend people who want to become stylists get started? Most people assist a major stylist. Do you think that is the best way to learn?
KG: I was a hopeless assistant, I worked in the Katharine Hamnett press office for five days and was just useless. I was always quite driven, I suppose, and I knew I wasn’t so good at answering to people and just wanted to get on and do it myself. If you’re a hopeless assistant, it isn’t the end of the world.

SL: Any other advice for new stylists or readers who want to become stylists?
KG: Get on with it ! Everyone finds their own way, people will tell you to “get on with it” and it makes no sense, until one day or night, when you know that there is an opportunity. And be loyal. This business is tiny and we are all going to be in it together for a long time.

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