PARIS–I must admit, when I first heard that Zac Posen was showing his main collection in Paris, I rolled my eyes…just a little. Apparently,Yohji Yamamoto had suggested to Zac that he show abroad–that they would “understand him” better in Europe.
But then, I thought about it. And when you think about it, Yamamoto‘s logic is indeed logical. Posen tends to design for a woman who doesn’t care for trends, who prefers something figure-hugging and frilly over something asexual and de rigueur. The European woman isn’t so much a slave to “what’s in” as the American woman, which means that Paris is the perfect place for Posen to show. The more European buyers that show up, the better for the designer.
And indeed, it was a show to remember. Along with a stellar cast of models–Karli Kloss, Isabeli Fontana, Crystal Renn–sporting sleek rockabilly-styled coiffs, the looks were lovely. Think Zac’s signature silhouette mixed in with some feathers, some trousers, and all with a Spanish flair.
Designer(s): Zac Posen
Season: Spring 2011 Paris
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Lauren, I’d have to respectfully disagree. After viewing his collection in Hi-Def, I can safely say that I feel justified in my initial thinking.
Zac Posen, bless his heart – because I WANT to like him, I do – is just a mess. His fabrics looked inexpensive and thin, the silhouettes…oh, God, the silhouettes. So dated, they were. The styling was way off to me…he drew inspiration from Les Folies Bergere, and I get what he was going for, but it was soooo over the top, it was borderline draggish, and yet simple and boring, at the same time. The make-up was just horrendously done. I’m sorry, I just wasn’t feeling it.
The pumps…goodness, who wears pumps like that anymore? They just didn’t seem modern and fresh. In fact, none of his anything that he did seem modern.
And I saw some construction issues with some of the garments, as well. Many of them had puckering seams, some of the hems didn’t match up, and the fabrics were just poor.
I’m sorry…I really don’t mean to pull and pick him apart. But honestly, though? I’m 22 y/o, still in school, and working hard to make a name for myself in fashion. I’m still not done yet – I have about 2 more years left, but I know better than to send something like that down a runway. He’s an established designer, and has been doing this for several seasons now, AND he has this grand idea in his head to show in Paris because Americans don’t “get” him. That’s fine and all (well, I don’t really see it, but whatever…that’s personal opinion), but sweetie….let’s be real. If you’re gonna play with the big girls, you’d better put your big girl stilettos on and make it work.
None of this seemed terribly chic to me, some of the proportions were off, and hardly any of it was modern. I can’t see many women today wanting to wear this collection. He seemed trapped in some nostalgic vision of what Paris was/what he imagined it to have been like a couple decades ago. Too many late nights sleepovers with old French movies and a bottle of wine, Zac.
This was a mess.