LOS ANGELES–Mid-afternoon yesterday, Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos, the designers behind London’s burgeoning brand Peter Pilotto, could be found sipping champagne and grooving to the tunes of Salem at Opening Ceremony’s LA outpost. The designers were in the midst of a whirlwind global trunk show tour. Having just previewed their Spring 2011 wares in Tokyo and Hong Kong, the duo was passing through Los Angeles for a few days before a stop in New York. And then it’s back to London to continue working on Fall 2011.
“We have jet lag from all over the place,” Pilotto joked of their first grand trunk tour. “I love the heat. We’re going to the beach tomorrow,” he says in response to the heat wave outside. As for his take on Hong Kong? “It’s so gigantic, the stores and the shopping. Shopping for luxury seems to be like going to the supermarket. It’s crazy how many massive stores are sitting on every block.”
Much to the delight of the trunk shows attendees, Opening Ceremony was offering the collection early…well, sort of. Shoppers could reserve garments on the spot by putting down half of the necessary payment. Given the rave critical reviews and wearability of the sportswear-infused line, reserving pieces early isn’t such a bad idea.
“Among other things we were looking at qualities from the past: ’70s elegance and ’70s sportswear,” Pilotto says of the collection. “We always like to mix up quite contradicting things. We also worked with a different length for us to achieve a new kind of silhouette for our collection. We are keeping the short [dresses], what people know us for, but just to push it a bit further we thought it would be nice to play with all kinds of silhouettes. We thought the long lengths were interesting and we still have a lot of movement in the clothes with the long, loose panels. So when you walk it still gives the impression of a lot of leg and is still kind of sexy.”
As for the specific 70s inspirations behind the collection: “There was Yves Saint Laurent on the one hand, and that silhouette. It was really the mood of it that we liked; we are never inspired literally from our inspiration. Then we looked at a book of photographs from California of 70s rock climbers. And we liked the freedom, the spirit of those images and the wind blowing in their faces. We used it as inspiration for a certain kind of elegance; that was sort of the starting point.”
Also new for next season: Peter Pilotto’s collaboration with Nicholas Kirkwood for the runway actually being up for grabs. The platforms, with a cut-out wooden block heel, will retail alongside the Spring 2011 collection. Pilotto also revealed that the brand will be collaborating on a second series of accessories with Kipling for spring. (Although, the sequel will be Pilotto and Kipling’s last pairing.) As for the possibility of a diffusion line in the future? “Who knows,” Pilotto says.
“I guess there are many ways to do it. We try to have a price range within the collection. We like to really push the pieces that are exciting us and some can cost quite a lot because the lace, for instance, is quite expensive. But, the simpler pieces are really more of an entry price level. In that way they are a sort of younger, more affordable range.”