PARIS–Watching Alexandre Vauthier’s show last night felt like looking straight into a disco ball.
Vauthier is probably the polar opposite of Rick Owens and co.: he likes his women to look unquestionably feminine, styled with wavy long hair, elaborate eye shadows, and plenty of heeled legs on display.
Although this collection adopted Thierry Mugler’s 80s silhouettes (think extra-large shoulder pads and tiny waists for a V-shaped top), there was also a definite 70s disco-ish feel, too, fit for say, Charlie’s Angels 3. Glitter in any shape or form dominated the show: lamé, gold, sequins, you name it. Vauthier showed very low cut necklines, a cropped jacket made entirely out of tiny metallic pendants resembling snakeskin, lamé jumpsuits, white silk, and high leg one-piece bathing suits. Asymmetrical tops with one bare arm also dominated the catwalk. And as always, there was lots of crotch and nipple flashing (some intended, some accidental, as one model pulled up her dress with a blush in the middle of the catwalk).
Being a passionate APC fan, I can’t say this was particularly to my taste – but Vauthier’s clothes serve a purpose: he hails anti-androgyny and while more and more girls borrow items from their boyfriend’s wardrobe, his women are femme fatales. Pourquoi pas?