PARIS--Rick Owens and Kris Van Assche might seem like stylistic opposites, but both their shows forecast a gentle, ergonomic warrior coming from a not-so-distant future. Think bare calves, leather on wool and flowy hair. (Did I just hear Emmanuelle Alt?)
Rick Owens introduced neo-Goth to the fashion planet a few years ago--and since, the whole world caught on: walk on any high street and you’ll find a gazillion brands stocking leather, sheer and black, black, black. So when you are Rick Owens, where do you go next? The designer has chosen a mature, controlled path. His collection shown last night in Paris included kimono folds (a tad like Haider Ackerman’s last woman collection), grey hues, softer wools, slipper-like shoes: more inner peace, less outer chaos.
“I’m not in the same place I was five years ago. I feel that what I’ve shown today is very different from when I started, and will be too in another five years,” Rick Owens told us after the show. “A designer always evolves. There is a sense of continuation but also of constant movement--but at core you just have to stay true to yourself.”
Kris Van Assche is definitely staying true to himself--sporty suits and tailored sportswear. His collection accurately reflected his neo-sportswear touch.
This was expressed through large, fold-over collars, tailored harem-ish pants, zip cardigan-dresses (and zips all over) and a notable jacket which neckline morphs into a scarf.
Pretty and practical--no wonder he was chosen to collaborate with Eastpak, in the footsteps of Raf Simmons, Rick Owens, Gaspard Yurkievich.
“My approach is a continuous redefinition of what a suit is, means, how it is worn. How can I update this symbol of maturity? How can I make it appealing for daily wear?” said Van Assche before the show. “But for this collection, on the contrary I bring a tailoring approach to sports basics. The result is a hybrid of an elegant but current look.”
** Rick Owens photos by Imaxtree. **Kris Van Assche photos courtesy of Kris Van Assche.