PARIS–Rick Owens and Kris Van Assche might seem like stylistic opposites, but both their shows forecast a gentle, ergonomic warrior coming from a not-so-distant future. Think bare calves, leather on wool and flowy hair. (Did I just hear Emmanuelle Alt?)
Rick Owens introduced neo-Goth to the fashion planet a few years ago–and since, the whole world caught on: walk on any high street and you’ll find a gazillion brands stocking leather, sheer and black, black, black. So when you are Rick Owens, where do you go next? The designer has chosen a mature, controlled path. His collection shown last night in Paris included kimono folds (a tad like Haider Ackerman’s last woman collection), grey hues, softer wools, slipper-like shoes: more inner peace, less outer chaos.
“I’m not in the same place I was five years ago. I feel that what I’ve shown today is very different from when I started, and will be too in another five years,” Rick Owens told us after the show. “A designer always evolves. There is a sense of continuation but also of constant movement–but at core you just have to stay true to yourself.”
Kris Van Assche is definitely staying true to himself–sporty suits and tailored sportswear. His collection accurately reflected his neo-sportswear touch.
This was expressed through large, fold-over collars, tailored harem-ish pants, zip cardigan-dresses (and zips all over) and a notable jacket which neckline morphs into a scarf.
Pretty and practical–no wonder he was chosen to collaborate with Eastpak, in the footsteps of Raf Simmons, Rick Owens, Gaspard Yurkievich.
“My approach is a continuous redefinition of what a suit is, means, how it is worn. How can I update this symbol of maturity? How can I make it appealing for daily wear?” said Van Assche before the show. “But for this collection, on the contrary I bring a tailoring approach to sports basics. The result is a hybrid of an elegant but current look.”
** Rick Owens photos by Imaxtree.
**Kris Van Assche photos courtesy of Kris Van Assche.