PARIS–No need to tell you Nicola Formichetti presented his first show as creative director for Thierry Mugler last night–as it was one of the most awaited events of men’s fashion week.
Try to picture a group of children waiting for a magician show to start, practically falling off their chairs with excitement. Minutes before the show, that’s what the atmosphere felt like: borderline hysteria and fits of giggles rose from the crowd.
It kicked off with a black and white, highly contrasted video of a man-thing emerging out of melted lead. Or plastic. Or dodgy water. The military sci-fi ambiance, complete with pumping beats, introduced the mood for the boys to come marching.
The first thing that popped to mind was “how very Mugler”: slicked back hair, rubber gloves (a nudge at medical/kitchen wear and women’s evening dress) and plastic elements melting into structured, elongated pieces.
Yet it was also distinctly Formichetti-esque: neo-goth, a touch of street, somber yet tongue in cheek.
Think flowing veils covering the entire head and leather patchwork, fit for a cross-dressing bride in the underworld. (Erm, Gaga in a nutshell?)
This was lovely but hardly surprising: the old-alien-meets-new-alien combo, we expected. As we mentioned before, the two men are an ideal match for their natural attraction to extraterrestrial chic, and Formichetti had even styled Gaga in Mugler costumes before.
But what made the collection stronger was how surprisingly wearable some of the pieces were: white shirts with tailored turtlenecks, touches of bright orange (for a dose of vitamin c) and dark blue velvet for elegant, mature suits.
Other highlights included baggy (read MASSIVE) pants, boldly moving away from skinny jeans. For those of us tired of cigarette cuts, this will be on the top of “steal from your boyfriend” list.
**All photos by Bruno Albizzati.