FLORENCE–Any brand with a heritage as rich as Trussardi’s has a follower in me. The Italian fashion house, which is still family-owned, began in 1911 with fine leather gloves. It’s been 100 years, and Trussardi is still crafting gloves, along with men’s and women’s ready to wear collections, bridge line Tru Turssardi, and denim label Trussardi Jeans. The family also runs a two-Michelin star restaurant, produces a furniture collection, and with the Fondazione Nicola Trussardi, runs a non-profit nomadic museum, which is currently staging its exhibition 8 1/2 , curated by Massimiliano Gioni, at the Stazione Leopolda here in Florence. (Pitti is co-sponsoring the show.)
Last night, also in the Stazione Leopolda, Trussardi put on the main event of Pitti Uomo–a runway show featuring its Fall 2011 menswear collection. Creative director Milan Vukmirovic (he’s also a fashion photographer, co-owner of The Webster in Miami and one of the founders of Colette) designed an “all skin” collection, meaning he only used leather, fur, and shearling. Even the t-shirts were made of a very thin, glove-like leather. It resulted in a futuristic look that would fit well in the world of Star Wars or even Mad Max (a favorite reference for fashion designers). There were plenty of long, collar-less, sleeve-less jackets belted at the waist, combat boots galore, and even a manly-looking a-line skirt, worn over pants. (For guys who feel comfortable enough to wear skirts, there will be more choices come fall.) My favorite piece was a short, denim-style jacket with a shearling collar. It was designed in a suede that was laser cut to look like leather.
It was a collection that would work well on the man who loves Burberry, another heritage brand with a modern runway style. Congrats to the Trussardi family on 100 years of defining Italian style.