Do you want to know the definition of short-sightedness? Planning a show outside in the middle of February. Yes, there are all kinds of parallels with street art, which inspired Andrew Buckler’s looks, and no, no one else is doing it, but cordoning off a section of Grand St? In February? Really?
Fortunately for Buckler, his lack of foresight in his choice of venue didn’t entirely bleed into his collection. There are some nifty pieces here, like the massive coats—one in shearling, and another in Mr Man yellow wool—but there’s also not a ton to really give us pause.
Here’s the problem with getting all “street” with your collection: the street has become a place where fashion has looked to for innovation for some time—not in terms of materials, but certainly in terms of style—and I’m not sure that the alleys and corners Buckler is mining have revealed anything authentic. That isn’t to say that this a misstep, or that there aren’t elements of his A/W 2011 that we can’t appreciate, but there’s just nothing incredibly novel about this Londoner-in-New-York looks he’s put together.
Buckler hasn’t missed the ball; it feels more like a bunt. It’s a natty English boy in NYC, but you haven’t run into him at a Kills show, or getting his tag up all over Bushwick. It’s more like you found him waiting in line to get into the Boom Boom room. And he may get in. But you’re not going to talk to him, never mind take him to the bathroom for a makeout.