Nobody working in American fashion today does sleek chic quite like Calvin Klein Collection’s Francisco Costa. The Brazilian designer sent out a stunning collection of his covetable separates and signature shifts, cast in a range of desert tones like slate, stone, and sand. We flipped for the charcoal-colored alpaca jacquard sweatshirt on Sigrid Agren–a super-luxe take on a sporty standby. And an ivory technical jersey sheath was trimmed with metallic leather at the neck–it took a second look for us to realize it wasn’t, in fact, a separate necklace. Another highlight was the smoky wool flannel frock with a bell-shaped skirt cut from buttery lambskin, which we could envision on any number of Sartorialist-snapped editors.
Costa’s clothes are undoubtedly simple and not to everyone’s taste, but they truly do need to be viewed up close in order to be appreciated, as it’s the way the designer tinkers with classic fabrics that makes his designs shine. There was a neat hammered-cashmere coat zipped up the front, a long-sleeved leather number offset by inverted box pleats at the arms and neck, and a final act of curvilinear minidresses in punched silk velvet and textural pebbled jacquard. The outerwear here had a decidedly sporty bent–many of the toppers were finished with bomber-jacket-style baseball collars and horizontal arm seams for ease of movement. Meanwhile, the house of Calvin’s famous footwear certainly didn’t disappoint–especially the comfy-looking flatform sandals (seriously, pick up a pair of stacked-sole platforms if you haven’t already). “I’m falling, falling, falling…” sang the show’s soundtrack throughout. And boy, did we ever–for Costa’s looks, that is.
**All photos: IMAXTREE