In a childhood that encompassed the entire nineteen-eighties and a great deal of the nineties, I somehow never managed to see Newsies. And thanks to Carlos Campos, now I never have to (if the long-rumored Broadway musical version of Newsies ever gets going, I know which designer they should consult for costumes).
Campos’s F/W 2011 inspiration reached back into his Latin American roots, seizing on the works of Pablo Neruda. The 1930’s urban look, gave us newsboy caps, leather bombers, pullovers, and militaristic nuances. Campos’s ode to common things included a mostly muted, earthy palette, “as if it’s been burnt or left to age,” says campos. This let the eye focus on his fine Italian wools and cottons, as well as the old-world tender loving care the designer brings to each piece.
While an artist doodled digital graffiti on to a projection, Campos’s boys relaxed on vintage bicycles or sat sulkily, their pleated cotton trousers rolled up, in case they needed to speed off, perhaps go to the office to pick up the afternoon edition. The palette backed up this depression-era feel: lots of hunter, moss, cognac, rust and grey.
This is a dense collection, material-wise, but not impermeable. There’s warmth here, as well as a great deal of thought towards comfort. Campos is letting the restraint of his sartorial choices speak for itself. And in doing so, he’s making news.