Charles Anastase controls the weather. At least, that’s how some bemused show goers felt when they ducked out of a downpour and into his venue, only to be greeted by a soundtrack of falling rain.

Drizzle sounds gave way to Brigitte Fontaine’s “Il Pleut” and a collection that was anything but dreary.

This season, Anastase’s schoolgirl grew up—just enough. His princess-line coats and signature loose, button-backed dresses were present and desirable as ever. Jeweled barrettes enhanced the “to the headmaster’s office with you, young lady” vibe, while metal tag-embellished wool dresses—teenage armor—had the clack of rebellion.

But the textures, such as caramel wools, corduroys, angoras, Lurex, silks, pony skin and velvets (a rust-red jumpsuit with a Peter Pan collar, anyone?) made for a layered, sophisticated offering. Friend-of-the-designer Alexa Chung nodded happily as dress after romper after jumpsuit sailed by.

Anastase went long with his last two looks. A sugar-almond pink floor-length spaghetti-strapped dress read like his answer to Jil Sander. The long-sleeved buttercream version put forward a dignified proposition for a royal bride, or, failing that (as he’s not British), a wardrobe option for Julianne Moore’s character in the next Tom Ford film.

The press release told us the show was a “collection of memories,” and it did have a wistful, dream-like air. Something tells us we’ll be dreaming of it all season long….

**Photos by Imaxtree.