When I was a brand-new journalist, one of my mentors gave me a priceless piece of advice: “Don’t fall in love with your research,” he said. It’s a common problem. Like actors who get into a role, when we spend time enough time investigating something, or compiling data, we find ourselves becoming attached to it. Then, when the time comes to jettison what’s unnecessary, or seemingly superfluous to an editor, we cannot bear it.
I feel like the guys from Duckie Brown are suffering from a similar problem. It seems that Steven Cox and Daniel Silver get so caught up in the novelty, history, or intricacies of their materials, they lose sight of the entire garment, or collection. While their show was a great improvement over last season’s circus parade, and ultimately a success, there were times where it felt disjointed, and off-the-mark.
The collection matched a tighter silhouette up top, with looser, more fluid items (including their signature drop-crotches, this season in shades of grey) down below. Asymetrical knits and woven’s were the order of the day, with some functional approaches to sweaters, jackets and trousers that never moved away from Duckie Brown’s progressive, anti-establishment core.
“The word here is louche,” said Silver after the show, “It’s effortlessly relevant and chic.”
There are some sleek, gorgeous jackets here; even if I have no intention of wearing an all-white suit next winter, I still love the cut. In contrast, there was an overcoat made of what I can only describe as carpeting from a drunken aunt’s sitting room. That said, we have to expect a little “Eff you, Normal,” when it comes to Duckie Brown. And if they need to produce one or two batshit crazy items to balance out a trim, refined collection—all the power to them.
**All photos: IMAXTREE