LONDON–The Big Smoke is such an exciting place for fashion right now, and Jonathan Anderson is one of the reasons.
The young designer showed his women’s collection today at Somerset House, the unofficial headquarters of London Fashion Week. It was the first time he has showed women’s separately from men’s.
And it was the right choice, as it gave Anderson more room to do less-androgynous pieces. Last season his girl was a grunge magpie, wearing Liberty prints and patchwork sweaters. This season, she’s a tough ’90s schoolgirl in mohair sweaters and work boots adorned with tufts of pink, blue or white fur.
Look 1–a navy sweater under a white shirt with a navy cardigan tied around the waist–was probably my favorite, as I’m partial to uniforms. (The charcoal skirt was straight until it right above the knee, where it flared out into little pleats.) But it truly was a collection that went from strength to strength. The mohair sweaters, particularly the orange style studded with a sheet of black Swarovski crystals on the back, were stern yet sexy. Even the white mohair sweater dress with a fringe of fur covering the belly was very attractive. (Who knew a fringe of fur hitting right above the pelvic bone could ever look good? But it served as a sort of peplum.)
Anderson is certainly one to watch at LFW–not only because his vision is unique, but his clothing is quite wearable and well-made, too. He’s stocked in London at shops like Liberty. I could see him doing well in the US, and wouldn’t be surprised if he showed in New York at some point, ala Louise Goldin.