Karen Walker’s AW11 show was her toughest yet. Inspired by working a class dance club in Northern England, Wigan Casino (where the dock workers went to boogie for the weekend), Walker’s peachy aesthetic received a touch of edge. The palette was considerably less saturated than most Walker showings, with black, navy, grey, dusty rose, and white as the main colorway, plus added hints of teal, cobalt, orange and red towards the show’s end.

While working class Britain may have been the inspiration, this collection radiated with a 90s sensibility. The models’ tiny black beanie hats and greased back hair recalled street urchins, and the mix of pretty and punk looked fit for Sassy magazine’s pages. A navy sleeveless jacket over a white tee worn with loose gray pants was reminiscent of Alexander Wang’s early street wear, mixing comfort with structure.

While this collection felt like a departure from Walker’s cute and wallflower-y aesthetic, it still had the desirability factor that will make it a hit in stores.