In the world of fashion, there is a definitely distinction between designers who design for girls, and designers who design for women. In real life, women obviously wear clothes designed for “girls” and vice versa. Yet for some reason when you see a collection, you know if the designer had a girl in mind or a woman. And it doesn’t necessarily have to do with age or price point, but rather an attitude. Francisco Costa, for example, designs for a woman. Anna Sui, a girl. Narciso Rodriguez, a woman. Proenza Schouler, a girl. It’s all about whether or not your garments evoke youth, regardless of who is wearing them.
Ermilio’s line is lightly structured, and very pretty. At last night’s presentation, we were besotted with a shocking pink blazer, paired with red trousers–our favorite color combination of the moment. This was Ermilio’s first proper presentation, and she drew a big, boozy crowd down to a Wooster Street loft. We hope there was a department store buyer or two in the sea of people, because her work is more versatile than much of what’s out there.
Another maker of pretty jackets is Misha Nonoo, who today presented her first collection including items other than blazers. “I was ready to do it,” Nonoo said of the dresses, trousers, and blouses that accompanied her toppers. Inspired by British aristocrats like Lady Caroline Blackwood and Diana Mitford, the collection oozes a deliberate elegance.
While Nahm’s freshman effort isn’t particularly dainty, it was most certainly designed for a girl. Just the kind who prefers her eye makeup a bit more smoky and dramatic. Created by Ally Hilfiger & Nary Manivong, a young designer who produced his first collection while homeless, Nahm is better than you’re expecting–yes, Ally is actually a smart, hardworking, talented girl–and we see the wares fitting nicely on the contemporary floor of Saks, Bloomingdale’s, or even Barneys. Arranged by color, we were particularly fond of the terracotta styles–most notably the two shirt dresses, one traditional and one cut on an extreme angle.