LONDON–How would Mark Fast follow up his fringe spectacular from last season? With the introduction of new materials and volume, it seems. The young Canadian designer kicked things off with a cloudy-day-gray coat with massive, football pad-like shoulders, showcasing his new use of Merino wool alongside all the elastane.

He tried leather for the first time too, in mac-style dresses with hoods, drawstring waists, back-cutouts and extra-long straitjacket sleeves. More S&M than sensual, they did little to accentuate his models’ curves in the mode of his signature spiderweb knit dresses.

Thankfully, there were plenty of those. We saw poodle-puffy wool hems, floor-sweeping lengths, and exposed skin galore. Showing a consistency of conviction that we couldn’t help but admire, he also brought back his plus-size models, with an improved underwear situation.

The leather t-shirt dresses, armadillo-sleeved jackets and heavier knits showed that Fast is trying to move on to new concepts. It’s hard to know how he’ll accomplish it, when the fashion world has so embraced his distinctive aesthetic. Here’s looking forward to this promising designer’s next catwalk permutation.

**Photos by Imaxtree.