Charles Anastase controls the weather. At least, that’s how some bemused show goers felt when they ducked out of a downpour and into his venue, only to be greeted by a soundtrack of falling rain.

Drizzle sounds gave way to Brigitte Fontaine’s “Il Pleut” and a collection that was anything but dreary.

This season, Anastase’s schoolgirl grew up—just enough. His princess-line coats and signature loose, button-backed dresses were present and desirable as ever. Jeweled barrettes enhanced the “to the headmaster’s office with you, young lady” vibe, while metal tag-embellished wool dresses—teenage armor—had the clack of rebellion.

LONDON–Step up, step up for the Louise Gray experience. The pink-haired designer opened the door to a funhouse of clashing plaids, metallic polka dots, houndstooth checks, bondage balloon hats and club-kid makeup at her Fall 2011 show.

Gray crammed dozens of plaids into the show, often all in the same garment. Some looked less like the sober heritage tartans we’ve come to know than patterns lifted from those rolling plastic grocery bags that old ladies wheel to the market. Others served as backdrops for still giddier detailing, as with the foil polka dots that floated over plaid mohair coats.

LONDON–The signature draping was there, but designers Maki Aminaka Löfvander and Marcus Wilmont set aside the serenity of previous collections for a harder-edged Fall 2011.

This time, their hunter-gatherer of a girl wore spliced-together draped animal print dresses, washed leather jackets and hoof-like wedge booties.

LONDON–London fashion is rarely slick. Christopher Bailey does slick at Burberry, but his mentor is Donna Karan, not another British designer. So even though Jaeger is an old fashioned house much like its checked counterpart, it’s not surprising that creative director Stuart Stockdale’s collection today was minimalist, rich-looking, but also a bit rumpled. And that’s not a bad thing.