Archive for February 2011

Jen Kao was on another planet when she designed her fall 2011 collection. The runway was lined with glowing lava to signify, according to her line sheet, “a new beginning,” and models looked a bit like beautiful aliens–fierce queens (not the Ru Paul Drag Race variety) from a far away galaxy: they wore iridescent armor (structured jackets and breast plates), tight printed jersey dresses in colors that looked like the rainbows you see in an oil slick over shimmering silver leggings, with gold netting and layers of fringe scattered throughout. It was like nothing I’d ever seen before, aside from prints Kao called “aerial planetary views” which looked very inspired by Christopher Kane’s galaxy collection.

I can’t begin to get inside Kao’s head for this out-of-this-world collection. Luckily, she broke it down in her line sheet and it’s too good not to quote in full:

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Oscar de la Renta loves his themes, and this season it was all about the uptown nomad, clad in Beukhara embroidered Ottoman jackets, Chintamani patchwork, and Moroccan Beni embroidered melton wool.

These were all ideas taken from Eastern and Middle Eastern culture, brought to de la Renta’s customer with silver fox fur, velvet shoes, and ivory alpaca. It was a seamless collection that will work as well for the ladies who lunch as it will the red carpet ingenues.

Biggest news: Kate Young, Natalie Portman’s stylist, sat front row…. Could this mean an Oscar for Natalie? (Pun intended, obviously.)

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Designer Michelle Smith’s Milly runway was framed by an image of wintry, snow-topped trees–a perfectly minimalist backdrop against which the bright reds, tangerines, and emeralds she sent out could truly pop. This season’s Milly girl is all about jewel tones, shimmering jacquards, and–you guessed it–the 1970s Love Story look (sensing a theme yet?).

Apparently the color palette was inspired by the bold hues of Guy Bourdin‘s artwork, a reference we saw materialize particularly during the middle of the lineup, when cheerful sherbet tones took over. There were several pieces in a neat mohair plaid awash with bubblegum pink and Granny Smith green, as well as a standout fur-lined duffle coat worn over a lovely poppy-print number. And a shaggy Mongolian-lamb vest paired with a fluttering frock in a metallic brushstroke pattern seemed a perfect choice for breezy between-seasons weather.

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Frank Tell’s presentation got off to a late start; after over 45 minutes of waiting outside Lincoln Center’s Box venue, guests were corralled into the space, where they circled what appeared to be a large sandbox in the center of the room. As a woodsy, smoky scent wafted through the premises (a fragrance collab between Tell, artist Lisa Kirk, parfumeur Patricia Choux, and Ulrich Lang New York Fragrances, as it happens), guests watched a video of a frizzy-haired, fur-suited Meghan Collison wandering across an arctic tundra. Then, out came the clothes: a conceptual, directional mix of savage fur, crystallized lace, and beautiful, raw-hem alligator jackets. Tell also worked in a handful of his signature wild knits in shades of mossy green and icy gray, each one woven with a variety of gnarled, tangled, twisted yarns. Meanwhile, asymmetrical lace and chiffon frocks added a darkly romantic note to the overall aesthetic.

NOTE: We just heard from Hector Meza, Tell’s business partner, who informed us that due to the high volume of guests in attendance, the collection was shown in two separate presentations. To clarify, we attended the second of the two showings, hence the 45-minute-long wait.

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Walking into Julie Vacca’s fall presentation this morning, we admittedly didn’t know all that much about the label besides its loyal handful of fans at Vogue (and true to form, Virginia Smith and several of the mag’s market assistants was in attendance). Happily, the clothes on display hit the perfect balance of wearability and creativity. Vacca’s hailed for their menswear silhouettes and fine tailoring, and both took center stage in this collection.

In terms of evening numbers, there were paisley-print dresses that had been carefully ruched, smocked, and accented with thin strips of elastic to highlight and hug the wearer’s curves. It was a refreshing change from typical body-con frocks, flattering and form-fitting yet miles away from your everyday bandage dress.

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Donna Summer’s “I Feel Love” wafted through Cedar Lake last night where Marios Schwab presented his fall collection for Halston. (Sarah Jessica Parker does Halston Heritage so she wasn’t there to answer questions about whether she’s cool with Blake Lively playing Carrie Bradshaw in the Sex and the City prequel–because she’d totally answer that question.) It’s the London-based designer’s third collection for the embattled label that has changed hands countless times and, like last season, Schwab is sticking fast to Halston’s roots. Models on raised pedestals that formed a triangle were like statues frozen at Studio 54. There were sequined columns in mint green, slashed in the front and back for maximum sex appeal, one-shoulder maxis in chiffon, slinky jersey dresses, and stark white floor-length numbers in sumptuous cashmere with slits up to there. The collection was literally ’70s–not ’70s reinterpreted for today–which is what we’ve been seeing all over the runways. It was a sound and sexy collection, but some of it seemed a little lackluster in that they didn’t seem updated for today. A few pieces stood out–namely a brown leather knee-length coat, tied at the waist, and a white cashmere maxi dress with the thinnest t-strap running down the back.

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New York Fashion Week is not just home to American or New York-based designers. A slew of out of towners flock to the Big Apple to show their creations each September and February, and we found out why from six of this season’s participants. You know what they say–if you can make it here…

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Los Angeles-based designer Juan Carlos Obando impressed us last season with his retro, space-inspired glamor. This season was more even more glamorous, but he took the refined look up a notch, sticking with lean silhouettes inspired by Carla Bruni.

Also like last season, Obando used Swarovski crystals to create texture and patterns on the clothing. While we were partial to last year’s constellations, this collection’s black on black styles were more subtle, thus more sophisticated.

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Faye Dunaway’s Bonnie Parker was Sophie Théallet‘s muse for fall 2011. Bits of dialogue from Bonnie and Clyde were spliced in with the show’s soundtrack, which featured Serge Gainsbourg’s “Bonnie and Clyde.” Models wore black berets and black ribbon chokers were tied around their necks so that the ribbon hung down their backs for a bit of a girly touch.

Théallet gave Bonnie Parker’s iconic 1967 wardrobe a subtle, slightly more feminine update: the hallmark slouchy men’s style suiting was there, as were shimmering silk blouses wrapped in a deep vee–the collars made to look like the lapels on a jacket, but there were also cute color blocked knits paired with A-line skirts and precious little cardigans over gauzey dresses. Théallet is known for her dresses (Mrs. O is a fan), and usually her creations are fuller and flouncier, a bit more boho. It was almost as if Théallet’s sweeter girl of seasons past was fighting to be seen amidst a collection to dress bad girl Bonnie Parker–and sometimes the good girl won out, adding little bows at the neckline of dresses.

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Trendspotting

Trendspotting: Red Hots

Wednesday, Feb 16, 2011 / 1:56 PM


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The putty palette of Bodkin’s fall 2011 collection–a range of browns, tans, grays–felt overly drab at first glance. Luckily, chic silhouettes crafted by designer Eviana Hartman, saved the day. From pleated skirts–the only concession to what’s trending on the runways now– to a peg leg pant and then slouchy, hooded sweaters, the shapes were relaxed and obviously comfortable, as Hartman intended. Best of all, you could instantly see each item becoming a love-worn part of your wardrobe. Additional kudos for the footwear (stacked wedges and  tasseled oxfords were amazing) and bold gold cuffs which added an unexpected touch of glam to this comfy-chic collection. 

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