Archive for February 2011

Maria Cornejo’s fall collection was hands down one of the best I’ve seen all week. Granted, I’ve always been a fan of Cornejo and her hallmark asymmetrical printed silk dresses that hang just-so, but this collection stood out. “I realized that the greatest luxury is to have the freedom to express one’s own point of view,” Cornejo said in her line sheets.

Maybe it was that realization–the luxury of being able to express oneself–that led Cornejo to have fun this season–adding hard wool skirts to her classic print silk dresses so they hung a bit heavier and looked more sculpted, or belting them with thick leather obis to wear over lust-worthy leather leggings. She had fun with prints, too, on her signature drapey silks: there was a print to resemble fur, one to look like hair (which went well with horsehair accessories), one that was a bookshelf (inspired by a “brainy friend’s house”), and my favorite looked like a vivid sunset. Stiff leather pieces were paired with filmy silks, and shaggy knits were layered over silk dresses. A cropped cocoon silhouette was recurrent throughout the collection (Cornejo calls them pods), and was particularly impacting in bright red and paired with a matching skirt.

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This season, there have been quite a few designers inspired by the prairie look of the 1970s. At Rodarte, the Mulleavy sisters skipped over Gunne Sax and went straight to the source, creating a modern Little House on the Prairie wardrobe that would make romantic fans of Laura Ingalls Wilder swoon.

We know we did. Building on last season’s old-timey collection, the designers took their abstract idea of patchwork in a more literal direction, with cut-out calico triangle tops paired with classic circle skirts.

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In a childhood that encompassed the entire nineteen-eighties and a great deal of the nineties, I somehow never managed to see Newsies.  And thanks to Carlos Campos, now I never have to (if the long-rumored Broadway musical version of Newsies ever gets going, I know which designer they should consult for costumes).

Campos’s F/W 2011 inspiration reached back into his Latin American roots, seizing on the works of Pablo Neruda.  The 1930’s urban look, gave us newsboy caps, leather bombers, pullovers, and militaristic nuances.  Campos’s ode to common things included a mostly muted, earthy palette, “as if it’s been burnt or left to age,” says campos. This let the eye focus on his fine Italian wools and cottons, as well as the old-world tender loving care the designer brings to each piece.

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Monique Lhuillier opened her fall show with something strange: leopard print. But Hollywood starlets who turn to Lhullier for her pretty and purposefully not–sexy looks need not fear this new beast. When Monique Lhuillier does animal print, it’s Dolce & Gabbana Lite: watered down, diluted spots, tamed in a way that renders the print elegant, tranquil, calm- never cougar.

Lhuillier is a lady, after all; or at least, her customer is, and one who needs a whole lotta graceful evening wear at that. For fall, the designer delivered accordingly, in lace, chiffon, and heaps of black that colored a departure from the indigos, plums, and fuschias she showed for pre-fall.

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Meg, Brittany, Jackie, Alice

We briefly introduced you to the Fiji Water Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week interns last week. Well, they’ve gone through a week of handing out water and hobnobbing with the likes of Anna Wintour and Mr. Joe Zee. We wanted to hear what they had to say and their impressions of Fashion Week as first-timers.
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You meet a guy, and he’s everything you expected from a Southern gentleman.  He’s handsome and polite, has a strong gait, watches Alabama football, drinks bourbon.  And then you meet the woman with him.  She’s mired in warmth, sophistication and charm.  And you sigh as you realize she’s his woman, from her chiffon gown to her motorcycle jacket.

This was the couple we encountered over and over at Billy Reid’s F/W 2011 presentation at the penthouse of Milk Studios. Deeply Southern, steeped in tradition and comfort, tied to American craftsmanship with every look, cut and stitch.

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A significant number of our readers look at Fashionista via their iPad, so we thought it’d be nice to share a little tip with you. We’ve been selected as a “featured source” in Pulse, the #1 free news application for the iPhone, iPad, AND Google Android. Pulse has been featured in CNN, NYTimes & Fortune Magazine, and simply put, the app makes it easier to read Fashionista on these particular gadgets.

And its integrated with Facebook and Twitter, so you can easily share stories.

Sign up for Pulse here if you’re on an iPod, iPhone, or iPad, and here if you’re on Google Android. xo, F

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Barbara Tfank made a few headlines pre-Fashion Week when it was revealed that Justin Bieber’s hair–as featured on his recent Vanity Fair cover–was the beauty inspiration for her fall 2011 presentation. And as if one pop culture reference isn’t enough, the FLOTUS has also been snapped in Barbara’s creations and is a fan.

I had to see this marriage of looks for myself, so headed to Chelsea to the Larry Poons exhibit at the Danese Gallery, where the models posed fetchingly by Poons’ colorful, abstract canvases.

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Rachel Roy held her fall presentation this morning at the Library for the Performing Arts, and was clearly in the mood for some eclectic layering. The models, sporting Heidi-style braids interwoven with printed fabric scraps (a fabulous DIY beauty idea if ever we saw one), wore a number of wallpaper-floral pieces, among them silk carrot pants and chiffon frocks. We liked that Roy seemed to have drawn on several multi-cultural ways of dressing; one striped lamé dress mimicked the cut of a Japanese kimono, while several pieces in a red-and-purple “Peruvian tweed” were definite standouts. Meanwhile, a head-to-toe navy look featuring a belted, bugle-beaded tunic topped with a slouchy knit coat hit the perfect note of relaxed refinement.

For fans of Roy’s famous trenches, fall’s capsule line of coats were thoroughly denim-centric. In addition to the blue-jean takes on the classic topper, several of the trenches were cut from lace, satin, or jersey but dyed a deep shade of indigo.

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If you need to be gloriously, full-on pretty, look no further than Tracy Reese and Alice+Olivia by Stacey Bendet. These two labels, while definitely having different sensibilities, appreciate that you’re a girl and want to dress you like one.

Alice+Olivia by Stacey Bendet: “Life’s a banquet, and most suckers are starving to death.”-Auntie Mame. Stacey Bendet’s inspiration for Alice+Olivia’s Fall Collection was a modern interpretation of Auntie Mame. To this end, her models were presented in a gilded room at the Plaza, surrounded by waiters passing champagne and chocolate, with a burlesque performance by Hazel Honeysuckle thrown in for good measure. Sequins, spangles, beading, rich metallic tweed jackets, and fur–all heaped on together–looked rich, luxe, and playful. The gold skinny pants with the patented Stacey rise and waistband were amazing, as was a relatively simple long-sleeved knee length dress covered in silver sequins.

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Arriving midway through a presentation is the best way to understand exactly the impact a collection has. Yesterday, when I arrived at Chris Benz at 5p.m. on the dot, the David Rubenstein Atrium was so crowded I couldn’t move without accidentally bumping another Benz-lover. But I’m not complaining; all the hubbub inside means that Benz’s collection may be now more popular than ever.

After his ode to Paris last season, Benz returned to America for AW11, citing his days in Savannah, GA as his inspiration for fall. The mix between art school kids (Benz mentors at SCAD) and ladies who lunch was perfectly struck, with mixed plaid ensembles that could walk from Williamsburg to Barney’s without feeling out of place.

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Name: Xiaowen

Age: 18

Occupation: Model

Agency: IMG

Where are you from originally? Beijing

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